LCA bushings?
The major difference between ours and Figgs is going to be the thrust washer built in. We incorporate this washer to prevent the control arm movement under braking conditions. This is a major contribution to more stable braking and reduced inner tire wear. No other bushing option does this.
-Justin
-Justin
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The major difference between ours and Figgs is going to be the thrust washer built in. We incorporate this washer to prevent the control arm movement under braking conditions. This is a major contribution to more stable braking and reduced inner tire wear. No other bushing option does this.
-Justin
-Justin
Very few, if any, street drivers will notice a difference under braking with either of the polyurethane options. Where it really shows up is on track braking hard from triple digit speeds. The rear of the car feels like it's wandering a little bit, not unlike using too much rear brake on a motorcycle at the track while balancing on the front wheel under full braking. It actually felt pretty familiar to me when I first experienced it.
Not exactly. I have solid bushings on the front and rear of my LCA and at both points on my upper control arm. They don't deflect at all. Yours still flexes with input as any polyurethane or rubber bushing will which is why we have conversations about durometer specs for poly bushings. Not many people are willing to tolerate the NVH that comes with solid bushings, but the steering feel is head and shoulders better than anything else.
Very few, if any, street drivers will notice a difference under braking with either of the polyurethane options. Where it really shows up is on track braking hard from triple digit speeds. The rear of the car feels like it's wandering a little bit, not unlike using too much rear brake on a motorcycle at the track while balancing on the front wheel under full braking. It actually felt pretty familiar to me when I first experienced it.
Very few, if any, street drivers will notice a difference under braking with either of the polyurethane options. Where it really shows up is on track braking hard from triple digit speeds. The rear of the car feels like it's wandering a little bit, not unlike using too much rear brake on a motorcycle at the track while balancing on the front wheel under full braking. It actually felt pretty familiar to me when I first experienced it.
Our steel, large surface thrust washer is preloaded against the control arm. The bushing has a 1/4" of 85 or 90 durometer bushing surface between the steel washer and is supported by the bushing housing on the other side. Videos are on our site that show the lack of axial deflection from this configuration. This is not something you get anywhere else. The videos are out there for both options.
Also,
Very few, if any, street drivers will notice a difference under braking with either of the polyurethane options.
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Seems pretty clear to me what you said right here. No other. Just not true. Intakes for these cars sell lots and lots, but no one other than MotoIQ has ever demonstrated power increases from them and lots here have tried. Sales don't equate to actual results, they just equate to sales. There's LOTS of junk out there to waste your money providing no benefit except to the seller. Not saying this is one of those, but telling me people notice a difference between your solution and SuperPro's solution isn't very convincing. Show me a lap time improvement, show me a front tire wear study indicating improvement, show me stopping data indicating your solution improves grip and reduces stopping distance. Just saying people like it and buy it doesn't hold a lot of weight with me when you are claiming "No other bushing does this" and I responded with an alternative that actually does better than your solution.
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Lobuxracer,
Your posts are off topic and have no direct relation to anything I posted. I am highly unmotivated to pick them apart. The old saying, don't argue with a fool because people from a distance can't tell who is who rings very true here.
I would refer anyone looking into these options to review the information in my previous posts. This advice below doesn't account for the blatant difference between the 2 products in question.
-Justin
Your posts are off topic and have no direct relation to anything I posted. I am highly unmotivated to pick them apart. The old saying, don't argue with a fool because people from a distance can't tell who is who rings very true here.
I would refer anyone looking into these options to review the information in my previous posts. This advice below doesn't account for the blatant difference between the 2 products in question.
-Justin
__________________
We Engineer Track Proven Upgrades For Your Lexus!
SUPERCHARGERS : ECU TUNING : SUSPENSION : EXHAUST : PPE MASTER DEALER
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-Justin
__________________
We Engineer Track Proven Upgrades For Your Lexus!
SUPERCHARGERS : ECU TUNING : SUSPENSION : EXHAUST : PPE MASTER DEALER
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 369
Likes: 77
From: TX
Do you have to completely remove them to lube? Ive been thinking about doing them but havent gotten to mine yet. Just wasn't sure if there was an easier way to lube vs having to completely move them in order to do so.
Yes, I completely remove them in order to lube the shafts on the control arms. Then reinstall according to RR Racing instructions. Only once a year, so IMO it's not a big deal.
I never had to lube my Super Pro bushings except on installation. I did front and rear LCA at the same time. They've both been replaced by solid bushings that are said to need spray dry Teflon lube occasionally. I did this for the first time after 3 years of having the rear unit installed, when I installed the front bearing in September. I don't have a lot of experience with how long it might take to be noisy, but it's dead simple to use the spray and hit both sides of the bearings. No disassembly required. None of them have ever made any noise.
