Many thanks to those who have posted before about getting rid of the factory green (and often hard to see) instrument lighting. I have completed all but the gauge cluster in my 2012 IS350C! It was no easy task and the 0603 LEDS used in the radio are so tiny I almost gave up.
There was a slight difference in the deepness of the blue between the 1206 and the 0603 LEDS. To combat this I applied a dark blue transparent wrap in front of the radio LEDs.

I also applied a brushed metal grain vinyl wrap to the wood trim and changed out the engine start button to the dark blue one found in the CT200h. The dark blue switch looks like the same deep sea mica exterior of my car which I love!
The last step is to do the same dark blue gauges with red needles. Thanks again everyone!








Jim
Fort Lauderdale, FL

 

Well done ....

 

Thanks Ryan.

 

Man that looks really nice. Would it be a lot of work to change out the lights to white? I wouldn't mind having it illuminate to match the white LEDs that I used to replace all the interior lighting...

 

ed21x-
You change it to whatever color you like. I heard red may need resistors added which is over my head. There is a general issue of the color being a bit different between the two sizes of LEDs used.
The radio portion of the nav stack uses smaller 0603 LEDs while the nav buttons use a larger 1206 size LED. You may see more of this difference in white (white vs a bit more yellowish)

I'm using a a company to do the gauge cluster and I even sent them a couple of the blue LEDs I used elsewhere so that they can try to match. I'll post pics when it is returned in the next couple weeks.

 

I just installed my gauge cluster that was sent out to change out the LEDs to match the window switches, AC Vents and nav/radio. I went with deep blue and changed the needles to red. I love the finished product and think it is a dramatic change from the factory light blue gauges and green LEDs throughout the interior.
I indicated in an earlier post that I opted to send the cluster out because I was afraid I would damage it when trying to take the needles off-- it was definitely better that I did this. I burned a couple traces in the nav and radio when converting from green to blue- I will have to repair these in the near future.
I started with the window switches, console, AC vents, nav/radio and then the start button. Then I pulled the gauge cluster and sent it out to Tanin Auto Electronix in Wisconsin.

Special thanks to Tainin Auto Electronix for doing the cluster work. They are active in this forum and I highly recommend their workmanship. It took the entire two weeks that they indicated but it was worth the wait. Ask for Becca if you solicit their services- She was very helpful through the process.

 

Instruments look great

 

Thank you for your business, it tied your interior lighting together perfectly!

 

That is dedication to open everything in the car for the tiniest of components! Good job! How many hours/weeks you have invested in this? And roughly speaking, how many LEDs swapped? I'm guessing roughly a 100 or so! Wow!
Looks Great though!

 

Thanks 2013FSport-
I read a lot of posts on the LED swaps but the threads were old so there were no pictures. I was hesitant to attempt. There were probably a little less than 100. I took my time disassembling to get to the circuit boards and took pictures so I would remember how to put it all back. The tiny 0603 LEDs used for the radio were crazy small even under magnification. I completed the steering wheel, window switches, start button and misc switches below and around the driver's side dash in about 10 hours. (including assembly time) The Nav/Radio, AC registers and center console was another 12 hours. I hadn't soldered in years so there was a real learning curve since these were so small. I did a few nights in a row, a few hours at a time.
To me it feels like a different car- especially at night.
I'm hoping to do the 3is front bumper conversion in the near future. I've been reading the posts of those who have done it and i'm blown away on how great it looks afterwards...
-Jim

 

It's a little late now but look up solder paste and hot air tips. Once the old lead free solder is removed and the pad cleaned, you drop some liquid solder paste on the component. With the aid tip at 650°F or so, you heat the pad and component briefly and the solder goes molten and literally snap aligns the part to the pad and bam, done! Likely a video on it. Take a peak on youtube and you'll wish you tried it.

And I was wondering about the push button. I assumed it had bi-color LED? Is this correct?

 

FF until you see SMD components on the PCB...
Then watch how easy it is to get the little parts to snap to pad and into alignment.

 

Holy S%$# 2013FSport- I really wish I'd seen that hot air soldering video-- would of saved tons of time! Thanks for sharing.
The blue push button start came out of a 11-17 CT200h. It has two LEDs like the standard IS but instead of green it is white. I changed the white to blue and left the amber for accessory. The color is a close match to the deep sea mica exterior- love it!