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Can you guys educate me on the tires? Never had a vehicle with different size rear tires and being unable to rotate. I expect to replace stock tires with Michelins but not sure what is expected tread wear or not rotated if affects warranty.
Only had a couple days and bought some all weather Lexus floor mats and tinted windows/windshield with ceramic tint.
Plan on changing oil/filter and rear differential at 1000 miles to get rid of any break in metal. Overkill probably but old habits die hard on things that have worked for me over the years.
depends on what you want to do. if you stay staggered, you'd have to remove the fronts and swap and do the same with the rears. you can't go front to back...i mean you can, but it'd be dumb. if you go after market and go square, you can do front to back. any time you want to go left to right you'd have to R2 left and right as the tires are directional. but even if you go square, most of us get a wider tire for the rear, so again front to back would be dumb.
head's up, you will have front inner wear quicker with oem set up. a popular fix is to replace the lca bushings. most affordable would be to upgrade to rcf/gsf parts. best would be to upgrade to poly bushings offered by a couple of companies. there are multiple threads about this. i personally went with RR Racing USRS Road ver
and why do ppl worry about warranty when it comes to tires? unless you are a crazy driver, tires will get worn as normal.
Can you guys educate me on the tires? Never had a vehicle with different size rear tires and being unable to rotate. I expect to replace stock tires with Michelins but not sure what is expected tread wear or not rotated if affects warranty.
Only had a couple days and bought some all weather Lexus floor mats and tinted windows/windshield with ceramic tint.
Plan on changing oil/filter and rear differential at 1000 miles to get rid of any break in metal. Overkill probably but old habits die hard on things that have worked for me over the years.
The tires aren't anything crazy. They just don't get rotated. They do suck, however. Slightest hit of cold weather and they get slippery. Like 60 degrees outside and traction control coming on if you go WOT even at 50-60 mph.
The IS has inner wear issues, but im about to hit 10k miles and mine are wearing great. I guess your mileage may vary.
Anyone have advice on jacking up replace rear diff fluid? I plan on using rhino ramps to drive front up for oil change.
Very little clearance for rear and expecting it may need to be on jack stands level all 4 corners. I am assuming pretty straight forward. Remove fill bolt, remove drain and let it empty. Replace drain with new crush washer and fill until drips out fill.
I wish that I had confidence in letting dealership do it. I hear so many horror stories on sloppy work done poorly. Or worse yet stuff like differential bolt not torqued down and falling out grenading the diff.
Anyone have advice on jacking up replace rear diff fluid? I plan on using rhino ramps to drive front up for oil change.
Very little clearance for rear and expecting it may need to be on jack stands level all 4 corners. I am assuming pretty straight forward. Remove fill bolt, remove drain and let it empty. Replace drain with new crush washer and fill until drips out fill.
I wish that I had confidence in letting dealership do it. I hear so many horror stories on sloppy work done poorly. Or worse yet stuff like differential bolt not torqued down and falling out grenading the diff.
You're doing a diff fluid change already? Just a paranoid precaution or are you experiencing issues?
You're doing a diff fluid change already? Just a paranoid precaution or are you experiencing issues?
No issues just want to get rid of any break in metal. Overkill yes but cheap insurance for my piece of mind it's correctly filled with quality gear oil.