How is it possible to have the same alignment
Hi, Everything is in the title, all lexus IS 3Gen have the same wheel alignment specs, while there are three engines type: AWD, FDW and RDW?
Are you agree with me?
We can't have the same alignment if the wheel push the car (RWD), pull the car (FWD) or pull/push the car (AWD)?
On the RWD, during the accelerate the TOE of the front wheel opening.
On the FRW, during the accelerate the TOE of the front wheel closing.
One the AWD, I don't no what exactly happening.
Are you agree with me?
We can't have the same alignment if the wheel push the car (RWD), pull the car (FWD) or pull/push the car (AWD)?
On the RWD, during the accelerate the TOE of the front wheel opening.
On the FRW, during the accelerate the TOE of the front wheel closing.
One the AWD, I don't no what exactly happening.
Last edited by Soldat79; Sep 1, 2021 at 07:14 AM.
I'm not sure the title of your thread actually says everything. What does "se" refer to?
To clarify also, the 3IS only comes in two drivetrain configurations: RWD and AWD...there is no FWD 3IS.
Also, the RWD and AWD do not have the same alignment specs.
There are different alignment specs for AWD and RWD, and also it's different within those models depending if you have the 16 inch, 17 inch, or 18 inch wheels as stock.
If you take your vehicle for an alignment, be sure the shop is actually selecting the correct model from the alignment machine computer.
To clarify also, the 3IS only comes in two drivetrain configurations: RWD and AWD...there is no FWD 3IS.
Also, the RWD and AWD do not have the same alignment specs.
There are different alignment specs for AWD and RWD, and also it's different within those models depending if you have the 16 inch, 17 inch, or 18 inch wheels as stock.
If you take your vehicle for an alignment, be sure the shop is actually selecting the correct model from the alignment machine computer.
I made a mistake, se = the, I replace the word.
Ok I get it.
I thought the both have the same wheel alignment spec. Thanks
Where we ca find the spec for the alignment in the web, to check if my dealership have the good.
And in this case, how it s possible the TOE (RWD) for the front it s between -0,05 to 0,05 while for a RWD we need a TOE in? Because when the car accelerated or keep its speed that force the front wheel to open the TOE.
Ok I get it.
I thought the both have the same wheel alignment spec. Thanks
Where we ca find the spec for the alignment in the web, to check if my dealership have the good.
And in this case, how it s possible the TOE (RWD) for the front it s between -0,05 to 0,05 while for a RWD we need a TOE in? Because when the car accelerated or keep its speed that force the front wheel to open the TOE.
Last edited by Soldat79; Sep 1, 2021 at 07:24 AM.
I made a mistake, se = the, I replace the word.
Ok I get it.
I thought the both have the same wheel alignment spec. Thanks
Where we ca find the spec for the alignment in the web, to check if my dealership have the good.
And in this case, how it s possible the TOE (RWD) for the front it s between -0,05 to 0,05 while for a RWD we need a TOE in? Because when the car accelerated or keep its speed that force the front wheel to open the TOE.
Ok I get it.
I thought the both have the same wheel alignment spec. Thanks
Where we ca find the spec for the alignment in the web, to check if my dealership have the good.
And in this case, how it s possible the TOE (RWD) for the front it s between -0,05 to 0,05 while for a RWD we need a TOE in? Because when the car accelerated or keep its speed that force the front wheel to open the TOE.
As we don't have the IS300h in North America (where I am...I'm in Canada), I have no clue what the specs for your specific vehicle is.
The repair manual would have the specifications so you can confirm...but it would have to be a repair manual from your side of the world. I would look for a local online site or forum where someone may have uploaded alignment specs.
As with most alignment specs, they allow for a range to adjust the vehicle.
Your comment about the Toe would indicate a range of -0.05 to 0.05...so basically a little Toe In to a little Toe Out...anywhere in the range would be fine, and given the range is so small, for everyday commuting I doubt anyone will notice the difference of where the Toe is actually set.
I don't see a 300h being a rocket on acceleration to the point where a little Toe Out is going to make a difference.
Once the steering wheel is straight and you're not wearing tires abnormally, I think you'll be fine.
In the north america you love the gazoil, the 300H consomption is low, juste 6 litre / 100 km (2,5 gallon / 100milles) lol
I didn't find it in the manuel...
I was looking for a explanation why my car love to dance on the road (left, road, left..) when I m on the highway and why it s pullling at right.
Is300H =
rocket lol, it have 218 HP, It's not too bad, to be catch by the coop.
I didn't find it in the manuel...

I was looking for a explanation why my car love to dance on the road (left, road, left..) when I m on the highway and why it s pullling at right.
Is300H =
rocket lol, it have 218 HP, It's not too bad, to be catch by the coop.Last edited by Soldat79; Sep 1, 2021 at 11:36 PM.
Some have mentioned that wondering feeling on the highway where it seems to go left then right then left then right and they can't keep it straight.
One solution that worked was getting the alignment done and doing the necessary calibrations after. In the repair manual it indicates you need to calibrate to zero point position and accel/ya rate sensors after an alignment.
This basically tells the car where the new straight ahead position is after the steering (TOE) has been adjusted during the alignment.
If you had an alignment recently, confirm if the calibration was done.
If you haven't had an alignment recently, then get one and make sure they do they calibration.
The calibration can be done manually, but it's so easy and quick with the Techstream tool.
One solution that worked was getting the alignment done and doing the necessary calibrations after. In the repair manual it indicates you need to calibrate to zero point position and accel/ya rate sensors after an alignment.
This basically tells the car where the new straight ahead position is after the steering (TOE) has been adjusted during the alignment.
If you had an alignment recently, confirm if the calibration was done.
If you haven't had an alignment recently, then get one and make sure they do they calibration.
The calibration can be done manually, but it's so easy and quick with the Techstream tool.
Some have mentioned that wondering feeling on the highway where it seems to go left then right then left then right and they can't keep it straight.
One solution that worked was getting the alignment done and doing the necessary calibrations after. In the repair manual it indicates you need to calibrate to zero point position and accel/ya rate sensors after an alignment.
This basically tells the car where the new straight ahead position is after the steering (TOE) has been adjusted during the alignment.
If you had an alignment recently, confirm if the calibration was done.
If you haven't had an alignment recently, then get one and make sure they do they calibration.
The calibration can be done manually, but it's so easy and quick with the Techstream tool.
One solution that worked was getting the alignment done and doing the necessary calibrations after. In the repair manual it indicates you need to calibrate to zero point position and accel/ya rate sensors after an alignment.
This basically tells the car where the new straight ahead position is after the steering (TOE) has been adjusted during the alignment.
If you had an alignment recently, confirm if the calibration was done.
If you haven't had an alignment recently, then get one and make sure they do they calibration.
The calibration can be done manually, but it's so easy and quick with the Techstream tool.
It's not me who take the picture (it's google lol) but I had the same message!
I already going to try to calibrate the zero point positon
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Techstream will work with Windows from XP onwards.
The error message appears when the software cannot interface with the cable you are using.
I'm not sure what cable it is you have, but make sure that all drivers are installed for the cable.
Also in the Techstream home screen, in the menu options at the top, you have to select what cable you are using.
In one of the menus I believe the option is "VIM select". By default Techstream looks for the Toyota VIM, so you have to change it to the one you are using.
The error message appears when the software cannot interface with the cable you are using.
I'm not sure what cable it is you have, but make sure that all drivers are installed for the cable.
Also in the Techstream home screen, in the menu options at the top, you have to select what cable you are using.
In one of the menus I believe the option is "VIM select". By default Techstream looks for the Toyota VIM, so you have to change it to the one you are using.
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