Hi All,

It appears I have succumbed to the failed amp in my 15 IS350 F Sport (Oh Joy!). I saw the thread below:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...r-failure.html

I haven't been able to find anything on this, but can you replace the Standard Amp (non premium) with the Mark Levinson one? I read that after market Amps do not work well and I do not want to replace it with the same part that is a constant issue. I wanted to see if I could find a salvage ML Amp off of ebay.

Thoughts?

 

You pose an interesting question, which I don't think anyone has tried yet.

I guess a couple points to clarify. The Amp failure, as far as mine was concerned, was due to corrosion.
Because of the design of the Amp housing, it really doesn't matter if you have a Standard or Premium Amp, the same issue could occur with either when it comes to corrosion.
As noted in the thread you linked, both the Standard and Premium Amps have both failed, but you likely see more of the Standard Amps failing because a vast majority of the IS's on the road have the Standard audio...so it's really a game of numbers.

The connectors on the Standard Amp are the same for the Premium Amp, so it will plug in no problem.
The Premium audio harness on the Amp has 4 additional wires over the Standard audio harness on the Amp.
Those 4 wires feed 2 additional speakers found on the Premium Audio vehicles.
Outside of that all the other wires are the same from the Standard audio Amp connections to the Premium Amp connections.

Standing back just looking at it I don't see why it shouldn't work.
I guess one question is, can you find a Premium Amp (from a 2014-2016 model year vehicle) easier than a Standard Amp, considering there are more Standard Amps out in the world?

If you can find a Premium Amp I would say give it a shot.

 

any way to prevent the corrosion?

 

Reason I think the ML AMP is better, is based on the images, the housing looks better overall to help reduce moisture exposure. But I will continue looking for info on if this is possible and if it is, are the results worth it.

 

Why wouldn't an aftermarket amp work?

A car audio shop near me that did my sound system is using a aftermarket Kenwood multi-channel amp to power my OEM speakers (plus a sub). Why couldn't a shop do the same for you with an aftermarket amp? Might be cheaper or around the same cost depending on what amp you get but it would be an even better amp.

Edit: to be clear they didn't just swap the amp using the same connections to the OEM amp, they basically just bypassed it, ran new power, ground, and trigger wire, and connected my OEM speakers in the doors and dash to the new amp. I don't know how much OEM amps go for if you find one, but I imagine they are pricey, a full blown aftermarket amp setup may be an option to price check and explore?

 

So I am not sure what your set up is, but I think the issue with the aftermarket Amps ties back to the Nav system. Looking at the straight replacing of the original OEM AMP, I think it is $700ish for it? I did see refurbished ML Amps for around the same price on ebay. Based on what your shop had to do, it sounds a lot more than plug n play, which is what I am hoping to do, trying to spend as little as possible (other life events taking priority atm).

If I am wrong about the aftermarket Amps, please, someone tell me I am wrong lol, would love to go aftermarket, if it is something I can install quickly myself .

 

Right on, I was just unsure what the cost of finding OEM amp would cost vs having a full aftermarket amp kit installed, might be close in price, at least worth price quoting if you have a local audio shop.

You said 700ish for an OEM one .... if you can ever find one, a shop 'might' be able to do an entire amp + install for you for around that, worth checking into maybe or as a last resort if you don't find the OEM amp you need.

I have Nav and nothing was affected *shrugs*

 

So that's a good question. Looking at the Amp housing is basically the size of a shoe box, but half the height.
The top of the Amp (or shoe box) is a solid piece of aluminum...it's so thick it could probably stop a bullet.
All the remaining sides have holes about a 1/4 inch...assumable they allow the Amp to vent heat.
Now...because the Amp is basically mounted in a cavity in the right rear of the trunk, if you get water or moisture in the cavity, it will evaporate straight up into the Amp, via the holes.
The question is how do you stop that without plugging the holes and overheating the Amp.
The ML Amp does have a nicer housing, but you figure it also has to vent somehow...and some ML have failed with No Sound as well. So better might be subjective.
When you really think about it the Amp is just a series of inputs and outputs.
You have Power, Ground, Trigger, Mute, etc. signals going in and sounds signals coming out.
The label of the OEM Amp has the voltage and resistance specs on it...so at least you would have the information to find a compatible aftermarket Amp.
For sure it won't be plug and play, but bypassing the wires to the new Amp would certainly work.

An OEM Standard Audio Amp by me is about $800CAD from the dealer.

 

So I wanted to give you guys an update. Oddest thing happened over the weekend. I went to a Car Audio shop to get a quote on an aftermarket amp, he stated that with these cars, an aftermarket Amp cannot be installed, I would need to get a full new system. He said my best bet was to just buy the OEM replacement. Accepting his response I walked out to my car and when I turned it on, all of a sudden I am hearing an AM channel! I had to make sure I wasn't loosing my mind and sure enough, all volume functions are now working and have been, and no sound quality issues either. I even took it through a car wash and still works perfectly fine. Not sure what happened, but I guess for now, I have avoided having to replace it "Knocks on wood".

 

Weird the local car audio guy said that, because I literally am running what he stated cannot be done (aftermarket amp going to OEM speakers (well I started off that way, but have since upgraded the dash and door speakers, but it originally was OEM speakers + aftermarket amp and sub)). I would say he was either a) just not sure and gave safe advice b) trying to upsell ... but he did mention that buying the OEM would be good, which he would make no $ off you doing that, so I guess he seems honest but just isn't sure about our audio systems and playing it safe as he may be unsure if it would work, but I can tell you it certainly does.

But, even odder, your unit is now working so yay! Hope it stays working!