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I added a little more to the previous instructions after I submitted it.
Also I just noticed the TAIL relay if before the Panel fuse, which means the Tail lights (at least) have to be on in order for the fuse to power up.
yes I toggled the DRL switch to the highest (the turn signal toggle). This is when the illumination lights are on. This is when I get 12V readings.
I'm not sure what's wrong here. I can't measure any voltage for all of the fuses no matter the lights are on or not. I even tried powering on the car, still no Voltage. But I can measure the current which is the green section on my meter.
EDIT: OH I was measuring the wrong way this whole time. haha sorry about that. I just tried it. I still get 0V when the lights are off. 11.8V - 12V when the lights are on.
An error on my part too...apparently multi-tasking isn't a thing and I should focus on one thing at a time lol
Originally Posted by UngBuck
yes I toggled the DRL switch to the highest (the turn signal toggle). This is when the illumination lights are on. This is when I get 12V readings.
Okay...then the circuit to the fuse should be fine. It should still be a little closer to battery voltage, but seems ok still.
Check that KC ground and make sure it's good.
If it is, then something else has to be robbing the circuit of a small amount of voltage.
If the Tail lights are on, then the illumination lights will be on also...which means the voltage across the fuse will be 0V.
incorrect for me. I get 12V both side of the fuse slot.
Originally Posted by Sasnuke
If the Tail lights are not turned on, then the voltage across the fuse will also be 0V.
correct!
Originally Posted by Sasnuke
If you remove the Panel fuse, and turn the Tail lights are on, then one side of the fuse slot will be battery voltage and the other side will be 0V.
correct! one side of the fuse is 12V and one side is 0V
Originally Posted by Sasnuke
does the instrument cluster function just fine?
yes the cluster is functional.
I never mess with this area before ever since I got the car. So It shouldn't loosen overtime. It looks like I have to pull the carpet out to get to the ground bolt. I don't know how to do this. I could stick my hand in and feel the bolt and it seems tight.
incorrect for me. I get 12V both side of the fuse slot.
I never mess with this area before ever since I got the car. So It shouldn't loosen overtime. It looks like I have to pull the carpet out to get to the ground bolt. I don't know how to do this. I could stick my hand in and feel the bolt and it seems tight.
You'll get 12V if you go from either side of the fuse to Ground, with the fuse in, but if you put the leads on either side of the fuse it should be 0V. Moot point as everything seems to be ok anyways.
If the ground bolt is tight and there's no obvious signs of corrosion, then you should be ok there as well.
You mentioned the iJDM fog lights...where are they getting power from to run? Are they tapped into a circuit under the hood or in the car? Can you turn the fogs on without having the tail lights on?
You'll get 12V if you go from either side of the fuse to Ground, with the fuse in, but if you put the leads on either side of the fuse it should be 0V. Moot point as everything seems to be ok anyways.
If the ground bolt is tight and there's no obvious signs of corrosion, then you should be ok there as well.
You mentioned the iJDM fog lights...where are they getting power from to run? Are they tapped into a circuit under the hood or in the car? Can you turn the fogs on without having the tail lights on?
The fog lights are tapped to some sort of wire hardness. I followed this method https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...port-only.html
It is a mess, while I was stripping the wire, the wire broke in half but I was still able to get it working properly.
No, the foglights turns on with the headlights and tail lights.
Out of the list below indicate what works and what doesn't with regards to illumination:
Refreshing Seat Switch (this is the heated/cooled seat switches) -- Now they are dead, sometimes 1 of the cooling switch illuminate
Radio unit -- illuminate
Clock -- illuminate
Multi Display unit -- not sure what this is, but my navigation screen is working fine.
Front passenger window switch assembly -- illuminate
A/C controls assembly -- some are working, not all of them
Shift Position Indicator -- illuminate
Combination Switch (that's your Eco/Normal/Sport mode ****) -- I never notice this, is there suppose to be illumination ring around the ****? The words Eco/Normal/Sport illuminate
The fog lights are tapped to some sort of wire hardness. I followed this method https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...port-only.html
It is a mess, while I was stripping the wire, the wire broke in half but I was still able to get it working properly.
No, the foglights turns on with the headlights and tail lights.
Out of the list below indicate what works and what doesn't with regards to illumination:
Refreshing Seat Switch (this is the heated/cooled seat switches) -- Now they are dead, sometimes 1 of the cooling switch illuminate
Radio unit -- illuminate
Clock -- illuminate
Multi Display unit -- not sure what this is, but my navigation screen is working fine.
Front passenger window switch assembly -- illuminate
A/C controls assembly -- some are working, not all of them
Shift Position Indicator -- illuminate
Combination Switch (that's your Eco/Normal/Sport mode ****) -- I never notice this, is there suppose to be illumination ring around the ****? The words Eco/Normal/Sport illuminate
If you used that install method in the link then it connects them to the DRL to automatically come when the Tail lights come on...which is fine.
The Multi Display is the Navi screen.
The **** doesn't have a illumination ring.
Still pondering...
Was there any event that occurred that led you to notice the LEDs were not working properly? Or was it just all of sudden, with no real explanation?
If you used that install method in the link then it connects them to the DRL to automatically come when the Tail lights come on...which is fine.
The Multi Display is the Navi screen.
The **** doesn't have a illumination ring.
Still pondering...
Was there any event that occurred that led you to notice the LEDs were not working properly? Or was it just all of sudden, with no real explanation?
It started after I installed these LED boards for my dome lights. It was pretty warm when I uninstall it. First the LED board goes out. Then all of a sudden my Illumination lights flickers and goes out too. I think iJDMtoy used to sell these. But I can’t find it on their sites anymore. I got these from another Salvage IS.
It started after I installed these LED boards for my dome lights. It was pretty warm when I uninstall it. First the LED board goes out. Then all of a sudden my Illumination lights flickers and goes out too. I think iJDMtoy used to sell these. But I can’t find it on their sites anymore. I got these from another Salvage IS.
Reading along with all your replies and it seems you did a lot of lighting modifications. I would start unplugging/disconnecting all the mods you did and start from the the OEM lights for now.
It's seems like there is a minor short circuit that could lead to much more major issue.
Reading along with all your replies and it seems you did a lot of lighting modifications. I would start unplugging/disconnecting all the mods you did and start from the the OEM lights for now.
It's seems like there is a minor short circuit that could lead to much more major issue.
Thank you for your input sir. The only light modification that I did was fog lights. But I don’t think the fog light is the cause.
I stopped using these LED boards and switched to Individual LED bulbs after this issue appeared. I also stopped using my dash cam ever since.
We're at the 5 year mark for the oldest 3IS models so I suspect we're going to start seeing issues pop up like this. This car comes off strong mechanically but the electronics seem like a nightmare and very expensive should they go out. Amps, HVAC, LED DRLs, LED headlights, now instrumentation lights. F sport sliding gauge coming up probably. Just be aware to potential buyers of used cars, that bulletproof lexus mindset doesn't apply to all Lexus cars, particularly those competing in newer or very tech-heavy segments like the 3IS does.
All the fancy electronics and gadgets of new cars are fun and great, but lots of complexities make simple things not so simple. I hope you resolve this OP. I honestly don't think this has anything to do with any mods you did. It's just a coincidence you happen to have mods. you probably just have a mucked micro controller, capacitor, or PCB failure somewhere. You can get a used replacement part from ebay plug it in and see if it lights up. it's a gamble but it would answer your questions really fast.
We're at the 5 year mark for the oldest 3IS models so I suspect we're going to start seeing issues pop up like this. This car comes off strong mechanically but the electronics seem like a nightmare and very expensive should they go out. Amps, HVAC, LED DRLs, LED headlights, now instrumentation lights. F sport sliding gauge coming up probably. Just be aware to potential buyers of used cars, that bulletproof lexus mindset doesn't apply to all Lexus cars, particularly those competing in newer or very tech-heavy segments like the 3IS does.
All the fancy electronics and gadgets of new cars are fun and great, but lots of complexities make simple things not so simple. I hope you resolve this OP. I honestly don't think this has anything to do with any mods you did. It's just a coincidence you happen to have mods. you probably just have a mucked micro controller, capacitor, or PCB failure somewhere. You can get a used replacement part from ebay plug it in and see if it lights up. it's a gamble but it would answer your questions really fast.
So here's a question, do you have your response on a copy/paste somewhere...cause seriously, when someone mentions they have an issue with their IS you go into "chicken little the sky is falling" mode.
And the 3IS is over 6 years old now...I know...I have one over 6 years old.
Obviously there is an issue, but your post was of no added value...sorry...but that's the truth.
It started after I installed these LED boards for my dome lights. It was pretty warm when I uninstall it. First the LED board goes out. Then all of a sudden my Illumination lights flickers and goes out too. I think iJDMtoy used to sell these. But I can’t find it on their sites anymore. I got these from another Salvage IS.
Valuable info...I'm going to look into the dome light circuit and see what connection it has to the illumination circuit
you probably just have a mucked micro controller, capacitor, or PCB failure somewhere. You can get a used replacement part from ebay plug it in and see if it lights up. it's a gamble but it would answer your questions really fast.
Im not even sure which part failed. Which part would you suggest me to start with?
We're at the 5 year mark for the oldest 3IS models so I suspect we're going to start seeing issues pop up like this. This car comes off strong mechanically but the electronics seem like a nightmare and very expensive should they go out. Amps, HVAC, LED DRLs, LED headlights, now instrumentation lights. F sport sliding gauge coming up probably. Just be aware to potential buyers of used cars, that bulletproof lexus mindset doesn't apply to all Lexus cars, particularly those competing in newer or very tech-heavy segments like the 3IS does.
All the fancy electronics and gadgets of new cars are fun and great, but lots of complexities make simple things not so simple. I hope you resolve this OP. I honestly don't think this has anything to do with any mods you did. It's just a coincidence you happen to have mods. you probably just have a mucked micro controller, capacitor, or PCB failure somewhere. You can get a used replacement part from ebay plug it in and see if it lights up. it's a gamble but it would answer your questions really fast.
I'm very interested to know what caused this weird issue with his lightning setup. Anyways, it's really a good troubleshooting practice to reverse back to whatever last working configuration, if possible, and then start troubleshooting from there.
