Just something to note, you had your multi-meter set to the wrong setting. You had it set to read current and not voltage.

 

I was wondering that as well. Thank you for letting me know. Lol it should be pointing to the left side right? the white section?

 

Yup! The one with the "V" label and range of 200m to 600. In this case you'd have to set it at 20.

 

^^^ Agreed...set to 20 as the vehicle battery is 12V...and the next lower setting on the meter is 2V.

 

I'm going to leave a couple posts so it's not one giant one that you'll be scrolling through.
First thing I noticed was that the Panel fuse is right above that fuse tap for the dashcam (see below)...which I find more than coincidental as that's the circuit that's having an issue.
I know you said you disconnected it earlier, but it may be worth taking the tap out completely and checking all the surrounding fuses to make sure all are secure and nothing is touching or interfering with anything else it shouldn't be.

 

From the lists of components that the backlight (illumination) is having an issue, this would suggest a global problem rather than a component issue.
The Window Lock switch is part of the master switch on the door panel. The A/C controls is separate from the master switch, and seat vent controls is separate from the A/C controls and Window Lock switch.
This suggests it's either a power supply issue or a Ground issue.
As mentioned earlier, the Panel fuse supplies all the power for the illumination circuit for the interior...it does this through two Green wires from the fuse box where the Panel fuse is located.
One wire feeds the master switch on the drivers door and the other wire feeds the rest of the lights on the various circuits.
The Ground for all the illumination bulbs goes through the Combination Meter (aka Instrument Cluster), as that's where the processor is that controls the dimming of the lights via the input from the dimmer up/down buttons. The Combination Meter grounds the illumination circuit to the Ground Point KC...see below. You may want to check KC to make sure it's secure and is not corroded...and that the ground bolt is tight.

 

Some follow-up questions:
1. Other than the dashcam, is there any other electrical accessories installed on the vehicle?
2. On the drivers door master switch, is the illumination working for the window up/down switches, door lock/unlock switch, and the switches that control the side mirrors?

Considering the proximity of the tap to the Panel fuse as indicated in my post two above, I'm still betting the issue is there, but I can't see what it might be off hand.
If you put your meter on the exposed metal blades on the Panel fuse on either side of where 7.5 is printed, while the illumination lights are not on, meaning the circuit isn't activated, you should get battery voltage, so approx. 12V.

 

My last thought for now is maybe the tap blades are a little too long and putting stress on the inner circuit of the fuse block, causing a poor connection of the Panel fuse internally, even though the fuse itself if securely inserted. The inner circuit is just a bunch of flat metal strips with fingers at the appropriate spots which fuses are inserted...think of it like looking at a Google map.
The metal strips carry the voltage throughout the block to wherever it needs to go...when you remove a fuse it causes a break in the path, hence the voltage stops at that point

 

1. No I don't any other accessories besides dashcam. I do have a iJDMToy Foglights but I don't think that's related to this issue.
2. On the driver's door, The illumination for window up/down switch and door lock/unlock switch are working, but not the Window lock and Left/Right switches that control the side mirriors.

I already unplugged the dashcam fuse tap and inserted the original 10Amp fuse back into the appropriate slot. I also checked surrounding fuses that they are securely inserted.

I pulled out the 7.5 Panel fuse and turn off my headlights. It is day time, so the illumination is not on. I touched the bare metal on the fuse box but It's not giving me 12V. battery is not supplying it so I got 00.0. When I covered the sensor on the dash to mimic the darkness and turn on DRL. I get a reading 11.8V (my car is not on when I tested this, I only opened the door and tested it). I inserted the 7.5 Panel Fuse back in and test the voltage while the illumination is on. I still get 00.0V even though the illumination is on, I should get some voltage but it's not getting anything. I touched the tiny exposed metaled on the fuse.

 

Actually getting 0V when the illumination is on is correct...if you had voltage then that would be a problem.
When you measure the voltage across the fuse, what you're really checking is voltage drop...so when the illumination is not active (not on), then you should have battery voltage, because the LED's are not lit to use up the voltage in the circuit.
When the LEDs are on, then they will use up the voltage in the circuit, which drops the reading at the fuse from 12V to 0V. Since the fuse is before all the LEDs and doesn't consume voltage, then the battery supplied voltage is being consumed by the LEDs.
My only concern is that you had 11.8V at the fuse when the lights are off...that should be battery voltage, which means your battery is 11.8V...that's not good unless the vehicle hasn't been operated in a very long time, and the battery voltage is dropping.
Check the voltage at the fuse like you did when the LEDs were off, and check the battery voltage...I would say that within 0.2V they should read the same. If there is a significant difference, then something isn't right...which would indicate an issue before the 7.5A Panel fuse.
If they are both 11.8V, give or take, and not higher than 12V, then maybe you just have a battery issue.
LED are more sensitive to voltage change than halogen bulbs, so your map light may dim slightly if it wasn't getting full voltage, but likely you couldn't tell with the naked eye.
LEDs will tend to flicker or just go out when the voltage drops enough.

 

The reading 11.8V is when the illumination lights are ON and no fuse inserted (just bare metal on the fuse box). I won't get any voltage if the Lights are OFF.
My battery is 12.6V
This is my daily vehicle. I used to tapped the dashcam to ALARM fuse which was on 24/7. It completely drained the battery within 3 days without driving. I replaced the battery last year or so and I changed the fuse tap to different fuse ever since.
I got 0V reading when the illumination lights are OFF (bare metal on the fuse box, no fuse inserted).

 

Okay...I see...you were using the meter in place of the fuse instead of measuring across the fuse, hence why you got the readings you got.
I would check the readings again when the fuse is inserted...if the battery is 12.6V, then measuring the voltage on the small bare metal portions of the fuse, while it's inserted, and the illumination lights off, it should be almost battery voltage (12.6V), or within 0.2V off that. Put the red lead on one side of the fuse and the black lead on a body ground, or bare metal, like the door striker. Then move the red lead to the other side of the fuse...the reading should be the same on both sides of the fuse, and they should be within 0.2V of the battery voltage.
If that'ts the case, then the circuit all the way from the battery to the 7.5A Panel fuse is good, and the problem is after the fuse.

 

I'm not sure what's wrong here. I can't measure any voltage for all of the fuses no matter the lights are on or not. I even tried powering on the car, still no Voltage. But I can measure the current which is the green section on my meter.

EDIT: OH I was measuring the wrong way this whole time. haha sorry about that. I just tried it. I still get 0V when the lights are off. 11.8V - 12V when the lights are on.

 

I added a little more to the previous instructions after I submitted it.
Also I just noticed the TAIL relay if before the Panel fuse, which means the Tail lights (at least) have to be on in order for the fuse to power up.

 

I'm looking at it again now. In order for the Panel fuse to get power, the Tail lights have to be on.
If the Tail lights are on, then the illumination lights will be on also...which means the voltage across the fuse will be 0V.
If the Tail lights are not turned on, then the voltage across the fuse will also be 0V.
If you remove the Panel fuse, and turn the Tail lights are on, then one side of the fuse slot will be battery voltage and the other side will be 0V.
That's the correct reading.