Transmission oil change or flush?
Truth be told, most auto trans can run until 200k and beyond on the same fluid. Does that mean you shouldn't change it? Probably not. We know fluid breaks down and new fluid is always better than old.
The happy and economic medium is likely just dropping the pan at somewhat regular intervals and replacing the fluid in it along w/ any filters and call it a day.
Replacing all the fluid is usually $500+ as 10 quarts of fluid costs a lot of money. So if you do that 4x, you've bought yourself a replacement transmission already.
Truth be told, most auto trans can run until 200k and beyond on the same fluid. Does that mean you shouldn't change it? Probably not. We know fluid breaks down and new fluid is always better than old.
The happy and economic medium is likely just dropping the pan at somewhat regular intervals and replacing the fluid in it along w/ any filters and call it a day.
Replacing all the fluid is usually $500+ as 10 quarts of fluid costs a lot of money. So if you do that 4x, you've bought yourself a replacement transmission already.
Plus, even if you did somehow make it all this time with the pan sealed up, you just have no idea what sort of shift quality you are missing out on ..
Truth be told, most auto trans can run until 200k and beyond on the same fluid. Does that mean you shouldn't change it? Probably not. We know fluid breaks down and new fluid is always better than old.
The happy and economic medium is likely just dropping the pan at somewhat regular intervals and replacing the fluid in it along w/ any filters and call it a day.
Replacing all the fluid is usually $500+ as 10 quarts of fluid costs a lot of money. So if you do that 4x, you've bought yourself a replacement transmission already.
Plus, even if you did somehow make it all this time with the pan sealed up, you just have no idea what sort of shift quality you are missing out on ..
So how could you say it's ok with a transmission, on the basis of whatever your argument is? You know many owners have problems after 150k with these units, which is to be expected when nobody keeps the pan clean.
So how could you say it's ok with a transmission, on the basis of whatever your argument is? You know many owners have problems after 150k with these units, which is to be expected when nobody keeps the pan clean.
I'm afraid your transmission specialist is not that familiar with Toyota products...tranny filters are typically found on domestic vehicles, and do get replaced with fluid service.
And i realize at this point it may seem like semantics between using the word filter and strainer...but it isn't.
A filter traps particulates that will get discarded when you replace the filter.
A strainer only stops the particulates from re-entering the transmission, but it does not trap them. It allows them to fall back into the transmission pan, to be discarded when you change the fluid.
So...to remove the pan to change the strainer won't serve any real benefit. Sure, you can get a little more fluid out (maybe 100ml or so), and clean the magnets in the pan if you like, but replacing the strainer is just throwing away money.
Additionally the strainer screen is stainless steel...so basically it never degrades as it's always submerged in oil.
If you look through any Toyota/Lexus/Scion service manual, going back to the 90's (maybe even further), you will never see a service recommendation for changing a transmission "filter", cause it doesn't exist.
great info
2 (d) Add automatic transmission fluid to the refill hole until it flows out of the overflow hole
i did this but it drained about 1 Quart, after adding 3 Quarts because I measured how much came out initially.
i will be following davyjordi's advice and ADDING 1 Quart
my plan is to change it sooner than 60,000 miles or 100,000 Km as i did not like the color of the ATF at all (darkish brown)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ugh-fluid.html
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Find an independent mechanic and save your money, do a couple drain n refills and you’ll be fine.
i really wanted to take that thing to 400,000 or 500,000 club but the 3IS was way too tempting not to make the Upgrade
in the Honda world, 3x3 Drain and Fills or drain 3 quarts drive like 100 miles, drain and fill for a total of Three times since 7th Gen. Accord transmissions were notoriously weak
Telling somebody they don't need to drop their pan (to replace the mesh filter and clean the magnet) is just plain bad advice.
Do you actually have direct experience replace your own filter strainer? Because when I dropped the pan on the Aisin transmission in my Mazda at around 100K miles, it looked very dirty. I wouldn't want that to stay inside my transmission for 60k, let alone 100k. At least I know that the bad advice is associated with Lexus's poor decision to suggest that you don't need to replace the filter.
I made my own thread detailing the pan replacement service with an Aisin transmission. Keeping that magnet clean is critical when it comes to the longevity of your transmission. As you can see in the last picture where I zoomed in on the filter element inside the strainer, it looks very dirty. And look at the sludge at the bottom of the pan. Some other cars past 100K miles look far worse than that. Do you really want to leave all that crap inside your transmission? Most of those metal shavings caught by the magnet actually break off early on in the transmissions life while it is still breaking in (or from abusive driving)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/car...er-change.html
i like your Thread but taking a look at mine today, it looks like some of the bolts have rust on mine. i wish is was more conclusive like on my 7th gen. Accord where there was a FILTER that you can see from New (Pink) to Used (Darker color)
your advice seems good but it is a pretty intensive endeavor esp. if one of the Bolts holding the pan fails
It's quite simple. At your mileage, depending on how hard you drive the car you're getting close to the point where doing a simple drain and fill or full atf fluid flush increases the chances of metal shavings/sludge breaking loose and clogging one of the transmissions many intricate passageways. As you continue to drive on the original filter and magnet which is far too dirty to do anything eventually your clutch packs will rely on the added viscosity of sludgey ATF fluid in order to press together and function which = impending or even instant failure when the crud breaks free. This is why a drain and fill is never a good idea unless you know the magnet/filter is in a clean state.
at 120K, i bought the fun version or V6, did the 3x3 drain and fill, the Transmission failed and i needed to swap it out vs. re-building the one in there.
at 200K, it failed AGAIN. Please take into account, i drove this thing VERY Hard on a day to day basis
at 300K, it failed again! i got it to around 320,000 before stepping up to a Lexus and to me, getting a $2,000 Transmission including Labor/Install every 100,000 miles was expensive but i did drive it harder than most and to be fair, the 4 cyl. Transmission is much more bulletproof

changing the fluid, from my own experience, i would rather change it, and have a Transmission fail than go on hopes and prayers the Transmission holds with 120K fluid in there
I plan on keeping my car until the day it dies, so I want to get on top of this asap.
What I am asking for is help on what all parts I need to order to do this job right..
I know the model # of the strainer, know what fluid to get. But does anyone have part #'s for everything else required? Gaskets, O-Rings, Bolts (I read not to re-use the pan bolts if you can help it), or any other part required to do this job right.
Anyone who can provide me with help on this is VERY much appreciated. I have access to a lift and am capable of doing this work myself, my issue is the lift I have access to I need to drive and hour to get to it, which I don't mind doing as long as I can complete the job properly and not be missing any parts I need.
hopefully this Helps, from what i remember from your Build Thread, you are a 2014 IS250, there are additional parameters to enter and they are usually helpful if you give them a call:
https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/oem-le...Base&Filter=()
if yours was a 2014 IS250 - 2GRF (not 4GRFSE) - 6 Speed (not 8 speed) then this would be your Part # +
https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-strainer-assy-oil~35330-30080.html?Make=Lexus&Model=IS250&Year=2014&Submodel=Base&Filter=(1=2GRF;6=6FC;0=GSE36L-AETLHA)&Location=pd:,
Lexus Part No.: 35330-30080
STRAINER ASSY, OIL
Lexus 35330-30080 STRAINER ASSY, OIL
Part Description Strainer Assy, Valve Body Oil
i agree with Sasnuke, asking them to replace a perfectly good Oil Pan or any other Pan, unless it got dented severely because you are dropped super low to the ground or ran into a giant boulder on your last off-roading trip, is replacing something that doesn't need to be replaced esp. since the 3IS, it will cost a lot more than a older Generation vehicle
BTW, something super low like this Acura TL hitting a giant pothole and "bottoming out" could cause serious damage:
Truth be told, most auto trans can run until 200k and beyond on the same fluid. Does that mean you shouldn't change it? Probably not. We know fluid breaks down and new fluid is always better than old.
The happy and economic medium is likely just dropping the pan at somewhat regular intervals and replacing the fluid in it along w/ any filters and call it a day.
Replacing all the fluid is usually $500+ as 10 quarts of fluid costs a lot of money. So if you do that 4x, you've bought yourself a replacement transmission already.
doing BOTH Rear diff. and up front is going to be a must since i got an AWD
10x Quarts = $500 would be if you had a Mechanic do it. Swapping out 3 Quarts of fluid, letting that fresh fluid mix with the old ATF then swapping out used fluid mixed + new fluid at regular intervals should suffice since Toyota/Lexus Transmissions are known to be "bulletproof" AutomaticTransmissions
this is one of the main reasons i got my 3IS and coming back to Toyota/Lexus, i hope it holds true for our 3IS aka 2IS Motor
2 (d) Add automatic transmission fluid to the refill hole until it flows out of the overflow hole
i did this but it drained about 1 Quart, after adding 3 Quarts because I measured how much came out initially.
i will be following davyjordi's advice and ADDING 1 Quart
my plan is to change it sooner than 60,000 miles or 100,000 Km as i did not like the color of the ATF at all (darkish brown)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ugh-fluid.html
When you drain the tranny initially, assuming the temp. of the fluid is warm to hot, then you should get about 3 quarts...the colder it is, the less you get out.
Therefore when you add 3 quarts, it should start to come out the overflow plug hole.
At that point you install the overflow plug and bring the tranny up to the specified temp...then remove the overflow plug to let the excess drain out so the tranny fluid is just a trickle...then install the overflow plug once more...and you're done.
So if you drained 3 quarts and only add 1 quart...there will be an obvious lack of fluid.
If you added 3 quarts and 1 quart drained out, then that's an indication the fluid was likely cold when it was initially drained, so less came out, or the vehicle wasn't level when it was being filled.
Obviously I wasn't there to see it all happen, so just putting out some ideas so the tranny doesn't have any issues for you.







