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@GR3Y5H3ART Just wanted to clarify that step with you.
When you drain the tranny initially, assuming the temp. of the fluid is warm to hot, then you should get about 3 quarts...the colder it is, the less you get out.
Therefore when you add 3 quarts, it should start to come out the overflow plug hole.
At that point you install the overflow plug and bring the tranny up to the specified temp...then remove the overflow plug to let the excess drain out so the tranny fluid is just a trickle...then install the overflow plug once more...and you're done.
So if you drained 3 quarts and only add 1 quart...there will be an obvious lack of fluid.
If you added 3 quarts and 1 quart drained out, then that's an indication the fluid was likely cold when it was initially drained, so less came out, or the vehicle wasn't level when it was being filled.
Obviously I wasn't there to see it all happen, so just putting out some ideas so the tranny doesn't have any issues for you.
thanks for the heads up
yeah my Engine was cold because it was my first time doing it, i just wanted to get everything lifted correctly, be able to touch any/all parts for the first time
i drained 3 quarts, added 3 quarts, 1 quart drained out overfill plug (engine was cold)...so i added 1 quart
yeah my Engine was cold because it was my first time doing it, i just wanted to get everything lifted correctly, be able to touch any/all parts for the first time
i drained 3 quarts, added 3 quarts, 1 quart drained out overfill plug (engine was cold)...so i added 1 quart
Were you monitoring transmission pan temps via a scan tool while doing this?
I don't know if i'm missing something, but if you're just doing a simple drain and fill (no transmission cycling, no scanning trans temps) then there doesn't seem to be a reason to open the overflow plug. Unless you suspect your trans didn't have the correct amount of fluid to begin with, then i can see the full procedure being required. Someone please correct my understanding if i'm wrong.
If you're just going to drain and fill, just drain, measure, and fill the same amount that came out.
I don't know if i'm missing something, but if you're just doing a simple drain and fill (no transmission cycling, no scanning trans temps) then there doesn't seem to be a reason to open the overflow plug. Unless you suspect your trans didn't have the correct amount of fluid to begin with, then i can see the full procedure being required. Someone please correct my understanding if i'm wrong.
If you're just going to drain and fill, just drain, measure, and fill the same amount that came out.
Thats probably alright on a 06 civic but definitely not how I treat my 40-50k Lexus. Transmission is one of the most expensive components, do the job properly.
Trans fluid could have been incorrectly filled previously, lost, burned etc... so when you do it the way you suggested you risk over filling or under filling.
Also trans fluid expands when heated, you need to know current trans pan temp when doing the job. It’s over complicated but still very easy to do a drain n refill on a 3is. I’ve had 3 done on mine.
-Drain all fluid from pan.
-Add trans fluid.
- cycle trans, plug in scanner and make sure trans pan temp is within the temps specified by Lexus (something like 40-50 degrees Celsius)
-undo overflow plug, it should be a steady drip...like drip...drip...drip. if its really slow or none at all add more fluid, if it’s more than a steady drip let some drain.
Done. That’s the whole job. A couple gaskets and like 40 min assuming your pan is cool enough to work on right away.
I see no logical reason for doing everything BUT checking the overflow plug to make sure level is correct. It’s literally 5 min to check overflow, add/drain some if necessary and close it back up. Why risk a tranny over 5 minutes (if that) and a gasket?
I don't know if i'm missing something, but if you're just doing a simple drain and fill (no transmission cycling, no scanning trans temps) then there doesn't seem to be a reason to open the overflow plug. Unless you suspect your trans didn't have the correct amount of fluid to begin with, then i can see the full procedure being required. Someone please correct my understanding if i'm wrong.
If you're just going to drain and fill, just drain, measure, and fill the same amount that came out.
In theory that's possible, but in reality it's not....here's why.
Let's assume you drain the tranny directly into a measuring jug (say a 4L jug)...you will likely get 3L.
Let's assume you have a second exact jug and fill it with 3L of new fluid.
Let's also assume the temp of the tranny fluid and new fluid are exactly the same.
Now...how do you get the fluid from the jug into the tranny? Likely using a pump of some kind.
Now you've pumped all 3L into the tranny...but really you didn't, cause the jug has a coating of oil on the inside and the pump apparatus you used also has a certain amount of fluid in it from the filling process.
It could be argued that's a negligent amount of fluid in total that wasn't put into the tranny, but since you don't know how much it is, then you don't know how much you put in (but it's less than 3L now), or how much more you should put in.
Back in the old days of Dexron III the fluid wasn't so sensitive to temp changes and with a dipstick you had the luxury of being close enough, without having to be spot on.
In theory that's possible, but in reality it's not....here's why.
Let's assume you drain the tranny directly into a measuring jug (say a 4L jug)...you will likely get 3L.
Let's assume you have a second exact jug and fill it with 3L of new fluid.
Let's also assume the temp of the tranny fluid and new fluid are exactly the same.
Now...how do you get the fluid from the jug into the tranny? Likely using a pump of some kind.
Now you've pumped all 3L into the tranny...but really you didn't, cause the jug has a coating of oil on the inside and the pump apparatus you used also has a certain amount of fluid in it from the filling process.
It could be argued that's a negligent amount of fluid in total that wasn't put into the tranny, but since you don't know how much it is, then you don't know how much you put in (but it's less than 3L now), or how much more you should put in.
Back in the old days of Dexron III the fluid wasn't so sensitive to temp changes and with a dipstick you had the luxury of being close enough, without having to be spot on.
Thanks for the explanation. I would definitely try to get a hold of a scanner that can read transmission fluid temps. But i just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing something as far as amount that comes out should be the amount that goes in if all other things being equal and accounted for (fluid temp, level car, etc.). If i don't have a scanner, all i would need to do is be sure not to run the transmission too long so the temp doesn't get hot when i'm cycling it. In my case, the car was purchased new, has only 40K miles on it right now, and has never had a transmission service nor is experiencing any leaks. So i'm confident the fluid level is currently correct. It's a sealed transmission so, fluid loss should be little to nothing as long as there are no leaks.
Also the pump i use is clear and meant to screw onto quart oil bottles so it's not large. The pump mechanism itself is only about 2-3 inches long, so not much stays in there. And if i was super concerned, all i would have to do is conduct a test run and run fluid through the pump, pump all the fluid i can out of it manually (simulating running out of fluid in a bottle), then turn it upside down with it compressed and let it drain out completely into a measuring cup to see how much the pump itself holds. I would say no more than 1/2 a teaspoon--not a tranny destroying amount IMO and easy to compensate for with an additional half a pump or less.
That video is 100% legit...her process and explanation touched on some many small important details that can be easily overlooked, A+++ to her.
If anyone is doing their own fluid, this is the video to watch.
Just a note that their is a manual procedure to get the AT Temp light to blink when the fluid is at the right temperature to check the level...that way you don't necessarily need the Techstream...or a heat gun.
Lol...that sounds like something I would do...but just in case, here it is.
This will cover all 3IS...review the replacement procedure first, then the adjustment one.
That adjustment procedure is for AWD 6 speed. RWD does not have transaxle
That adjustment procedure is for AWD 6 speed. RWD does not have transaxle
Those procedures I posted are for all 3IS, RWD and AWD...8 speed and 6 speed.
The title at the top says "Automatic Transmission/Transaxle" because that's the title of the section of the repair manual...you are correct the 3IS does not have a transaxle.
If you look at the repair manual for a Camry, the section will still be titled "Automatic Transmission/Transaxle"...and a Camry does not have a transmission, only a transaxle...it's just how Toyota labels the sections of the repair manual.
By definition a transaxle is a unit that is a transmission and differential combined in one.
Commonly RWD vehicles will have transmissions, and front wheel drive vehicles will have transaxles. Of course there are exceptions to every rule...Toyota MR2 is RWD but has a transaxle.
As the AWD 3IS is built off a rear wheel drive platform, it has a transmission.
the A760H is the 6 speed tranny not the 8. The H is the designation for AWD. Picture below is the A760H
Ok...I get what you're saying, because the instructions say A760H at the top, then it's only for A760H.
Ok...here are the same identical instructions for the RWD. You will note than other than the pictures in the instructions, the rest is the same.
Reality is whether you use the instructions for the AWD on the RWD, or vice versa, it doesn't matter cause it's the same with the same end result.
Really you could use the instructions for any Toyota/Lexus/Scion that has a sealed tranny that takes WS fluid. The location of the drain, fill, and overflow plugs will vary of course, but that's it.
Here's what my transmission fluid looks like at 90k....pitch black
"Lifetime Fluid" my a**
Car shifts like butter....definitely noticeable on the downshifts ....less jerky and more responsive. Lexus replaced 4 quarts with the drain and refill. $145 with Toyota ATFWS Fluid
Here's what my transmission fluid looks like at 90k....pitch black
"Lifetime Fluid" my a**
Car shifts like butter....definitely noticeable on the downshifts ....less jerky and more responsive. Lexus replaced 4 quarts with the drain and refill. $145 with Toyota ATFWS Fluid
Do you think I’d be wasting $$ to change mine at 12,500? I don’t drive it much and it’s 5 yrs old. I’ve already done the brake fluid change. I’m thinking time is just as much a factor as mileage
Do you think I’d be wasting $$ to change mine at 12,500? I don’t drive it much and it’s 5 yrs old. I’ve already done the brake fluid change. I’m thinking time is just as much a factor as mileage
I think so given that you dont drive much.
I did it as preventive maintenance since I daily this car and drive it quite hard lol I have been meaning to do it for awhile and now with Covid-19 dealerships are hurting so i took advantage of some service specials they were offering.