I have had my rhino ramps for 30+ years and they work great still. They like to scoot forward when you start up. What I do now is put a towel down first then set the ramps on the towel with the towel extended in front about 6”. So when the tire rides on the towel, the ramp wont scoot away.

for the diff drain and fill I run it up the ramps, lift the rear with a floor jack and level it using jack stands at the rear rocker pinch welds. I highly recommend using some plastic cover on the jack stands. I dont like the weight of the car to rest on the pinch weld.

 

Oh I’ve had the Rhino Ramps for a long time, and used them on my heavier previous cars (Lincoln, Cadillac) and they didn’t fail (I’m still here). And if I could have gotten my low clearance Jag on them, I probably wouldn’t have bought the Race Ramps.
But now that I have them, I use ‘em for all the cars, they just inspire more confidence.

As for the Rhino ‘slide’, I resorted to sticking a screwdriver in the gap between the edge of my garage floor and the edge of the driveway, and then put the backside of the ramp against the upright screwdriver handle, and then drive up on the ramp.

 

Currently using the 16k lbs. rhino ramps for doing oil changes in my garage, I get the slide too but i just lay down a strip of duct tape to hold the ramp down and it does the job really well. Just barely clears the front at stock height.

 

Stock is fine but I found with 1" H-Tech springs, the front splats would rub on the ramps causing the car to just push the ramps forward as you tried to drive. The car would go up if you have someone hold the ramps in place with their feet or what I would do is use some 4x4 wood posts to hold the ramps up against the garage wall (cement part) and that would do the trick.

 

Oh and I'll add never get underneath a car supported only by ramps. Yes they're tough and likely won't fail, but not every ramp is created equally and not every placement of the tires on the ramp is perfect. I typically do this when I change the oil using ramps:

Drive car on ramps.

Place hydraulic jack on solid jack point on vehicle, firmly, lifting 1-3"

Place jack stands on both sides under pinch welds, touching/resting is preferred. (you may need to lift car high using jack then lower it back down, but keeping jack firmly lifting car a bit)

Ideally don't have the weight of the car fully supported on any one of your safety devices. The goal is to spread the weight out some. Also never lift your car higher than necessary to safely accomplish your goal. A high car is an unstable car.

Also have your phone nearby in case you need help.

 

hehehe I’d trust my USA made 30 year old rhino ramps over Harbor freight jack stands any day ( recent recalls for failed HF jack stand welds). Any support can fail. The best advise is to buy quality. Is your life only worth $20 for cheapy jack stands Or can you swing $60 for better ones?

when I crawl under my vehicle, I push the Removed wheels under the rocker panels. If any support failS, the wheel will save your life. Its a good habit To get into.

 

Current price on amazon for the at $39.42 is very attractive for those interested.

 

[QUOTE=Drcoffee;10870418]I have had my rhino ramps for 30+ years and they work great still. They like to scoot forward when you start up. What I do now is put a towel down first then set the ramps on the towel with the towel extended in front about 6”. So when the tire rides on the towel, the ramp wont scoot away.

for the diff drain and fill I run it up the ramps, lift the rear with a floor jack and level it using jack stands at the rear rocker pinch welds. I highly recommend using some plastic cover on the jack stands. I dont like the weight of the car to rest on the pinch weld.

For the rear, where do you jack from, so that there is space for slide in the jack stands? Thanks.