which wires to tap (ML amp)
05-16-17, 06:14 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
which wires to tap (ML amp)
Hi all,
I'm trying to hook up an aftermarket sub and amp to my 2014 IS350 F sport (with mark levinson system). I wanted to tap into the rear speaker wires to connect to my LOC (LC2i) and my harness looked pretty much identical to the one in this thread (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-too-easy.html), so I tapped the pins all the way on the end of the connector (GREEN/WHITE , PINK/BEIGE). I am not getting any signal to my LOC though, so the wires I tapped must not be giving any signal (I double checked by hooking a multimeter up to it and checking for voltage... there wasn't any coming off the wires). Does anyone know which wires are the rear speaker wires or sub wires on the 2014 IS350 w/ ML? I searched but could not find anything.
Thank you
I'm trying to hook up an aftermarket sub and amp to my 2014 IS350 F sport (with mark levinson system). I wanted to tap into the rear speaker wires to connect to my LOC (LC2i) and my harness looked pretty much identical to the one in this thread (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-too-easy.html), so I tapped the pins all the way on the end of the connector (GREEN/WHITE , PINK/BEIGE). I am not getting any signal to my LOC though, so the wires I tapped must not be giving any signal (I double checked by hooking a multimeter up to it and checking for voltage... there wasn't any coming off the wires). Does anyone know which wires are the rear speaker wires or sub wires on the 2014 IS350 w/ ML? I searched but could not find anything.
Thank you
05-16-17, 09:01 PM
#2
Racer
iTrader: (3)
ML and non-ML is different pinout.
Tap into the Subwoofer speaker as the other speakers are crossover for higher frequency and will be useless to get any sound for a subwoofer.
Factory Wiring schematics
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-a...qUqOo-XFwzvQTg
(Page 4 reference subwoofer wiring in diagram)
Tap into the Subwoofer speaker as the other speakers are crossover for higher frequency and will be useless to get any sound for a subwoofer.
Factory Wiring schematics
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-a...qUqOo-XFwzvQTg
(Page 4 reference subwoofer wiring in diagram)
Last edited by specONE; 06-07-22 at 09:31 AM.
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clov3r (05-16-17)
05-16-17, 09:33 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
ML and non-ML is different pinout.
Tap into the Subwoofer speaker as the other speakers are crossover for higher frequency and will be useless to get any sound for a subwoofer.
Factory Wiring schematics
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-a...ew?usp=sharing
(Page 4 reference subwoofer wiring in diagram)
Tap into the Subwoofer speaker as the other speakers are crossover for higher frequency and will be useless to get any sound for a subwoofer.
Factory Wiring schematics
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-a...ew?usp=sharing
(Page 4 reference subwoofer wiring in diagram)
05-16-17, 10:18 PM
#4
Racer
iTrader: (3)
You sir (or maam), are a genius! I don't have my sub box installed since I took it out to diagnose the wiring problem, but I tried just hooking two wires up from the pins on page 4 to my LOC and it got power... so those seem to be the ones! I'll solder the wires on tomorrow after work and hook up my subs and hopefully it all should work. Thanks so much!!
I tried that very same thing but the signal was not clean enough to provide steady remote output throughout depending on the song and the Amplifier will turn on and off sporadically.
You may want to run a remote wire and tap to the cigarette lighter up front.
05-17-17, 04:52 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
You are using a LOC with a Remote line output to go to Amplifier? if Yes, Careful doing that.
I tried that very same thing but the signal was not clean enough to provide steady remote output throughout depending on the song and the Amplifier will turn on and off sporadically.
You may want to run a remote wire and tap to the cigarette lighter up front.
I tried that very same thing but the signal was not clean enough to provide steady remote output throughout depending on the song and the Amplifier will turn on and off sporadically.
You may want to run a remote wire and tap to the cigarette lighter up front.
05-17-17, 05:39 PM
#6
Racer
iTrader: (3)
Yes, that's how I was going to run it. I ran a remote wire to the fuse box area at the front just in case though... thanks for the tip. So... good news is I got everything wired and my LOC is getting signal and turning on. Bad news is those aren't the right wires... I am getting no sound from the sub, and when the car is turned off the LOC is still getting power. I removed the connections at the LOC and tested the new wires I just tapped into and they're giving off 12V even when the car isn't on. Honestly, I'm almost ready to just tap directly into the speakers on the rear deck for a signal... that wiring harness is so cut up now having soldered 8 wires in total and having to disconnect 4 of them (the ones from yesterday that weren't correct).
You need a tone generator to figure out which is the subwoofer wires.( http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Install-Bay-IBN-899-Lisle-Corp-Tool-Tone-Generator-RCA-Outputs-Each-IST13-IBN-899?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseFeed&gclid=CjwKEAjw6e_IBRDvorfv2Ku79jMSJAAuiv9YSWa6Hs8M7-Pk9bpYJWGUKt9DwfNKlz_xumj5NBM0jxoC95_w_wcB )
Thats what professionals use to confirm before tapping wires
You can also use a AA battery to pop the speaker but careful as 1.5 volts can do damage if you are on the wrong wires.
05-18-17, 01:32 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Got it working! I tapped the wrong blue wire. Tapped the right ones and after running the remote wire to a switched fuse (I used the seat heaters) it worked (for some reason the autosense on the LOC didn't pick up on the signal from the speakers and turn itself on... I remembered you said you had issues w the remote turn on, so after I hooked up a dedicated remote wire it worked). Thanks for the help!
Last edited by clov3r; 05-18-17 at 01:37 PM.
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10-09-18, 06:33 AM
#10
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
10-10-18, 04:26 AM
#11
I did mine about a month ago, 4 wires to tap on the big harness and 1 wire to tap on the small harness for remote for the sub.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
10-11-18, 02:26 PM
#12
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Non ML Amp
I did mine about a month ago, 4 wires to tap on the big harness and 1 wire to tap on the small harness for remote for the sub.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
07-01-19, 06:00 AM
#13
I did mine about a month ago, 4 wires to tap on the big harness and 1 wire to tap on the small harness for remote for the sub.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
11-18-19, 09:43 AM
#14
Driver School Candidate
People keep saying that it is a light blue and grey wire to tap that is not the case (the only light blue wire is thick don't tap it lol) it is a navy blue wire and grey twisted pair. There are only 2 navy wires in the harness. one is a navy blue / black pair that is for one of the front woofers. the navy blue and light grey wire pair is the rear deck sub. I ran my remote wire from the fuse box. Navy Blue is NEGATIVE and light grey is POSITIVE.
Last edited by GUILE88; 11-19-19 at 05:47 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Raghza (11-19-19)
11-19-19, 02:37 AM
#15
I did mine about a month ago, 4 wires to tap on the big harness and 1 wire to tap on the small harness for remote for the sub.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.
lets do the easy one, for the remote it's on the small harness, it is the small brown wire on the corner of the harness - closest to the back of the car.
on the big harness, if you look at it while it's still plugged in, the 4 wires are the closest ones towards the back of the car. you'll see a beige (L+) and pink (L-) and Green (R+) and white (R-) wires on the very corner of the harness. That's all you need to tap for your sub.
Also for the ground wire, there's a bolt on the right side that you can use behind the lining for ground wire. it was perfect, there's also already a wire there, i'm assuming it's for the stock sub.
Hope this helps. I have a 2016 is with NonML. I installed a self powered sub (bazooka sub) without problems.