Lexus IS Sway Bar
#31
But wouldn't you need to drop it completely or just lower a few inches? what about the drive shaft... i didn't see the procedure for the subframe "removal" =)
#32
Intermediate
for the purpose of swapping sway bars, i would guess you only need to open up 1 pair of bolts and only loosen the others.. just enough to slide the sway bar off, instead of completely dropping it out. The service manual says to do so because it's the "proper way".
The following users liked this post:
LexoticJ (02-03-21)
The following users liked this post:
LexoticJ (02-03-21)
#35
Installed on 2 customers car, but haven't heard any review anymore beside the 2 guys that have it installed.
Pictures available in here
https://www.instagram.com/nigeljdmparts/
Facebook Post
Last edited by Nigel-JDMParts; 02-16-17 at 12:56 AM.
#36
#37
I returned it. Did not feel like dropping the subframe on a new car. It's not so new now so maybe i'd consider it if it's not that involved.
If I was dropping the subframe i'd like to install subframe limiters like they offer for the FR-S. but sadly nobody makes jack for our cars
If I was dropping the subframe i'd like to install subframe limiters like they offer for the FR-S. but sadly nobody makes jack for our cars
#38
I can't say for certain if all/some/none of the collars would be compatible with the newer model though...
#39
The ones I saw were made by Whiteline I think. It would be nice to see measurements of these products to verify if they can be used on 3IS or not. I'm waiting for someone else to be the guinea pig. lol.
The 3IS has way too much rear subframe slop. I can feel it. I'd also like to tighten it up with some RC-F rear lower control arms. Seems they use a balljoint on one end, in addition to being inherently more rigid (and lighter). If I keep this car beyond my lease, I'd want to do some good functional upgrades.
The 3IS has way too much rear subframe slop. I can feel it. I'd also like to tighten it up with some RC-F rear lower control arms. Seems they use a balljoint on one end, in addition to being inherently more rigid (and lighter). If I keep this car beyond my lease, I'd want to do some good functional upgrades.
#40
Are you talking about the Spoon Rigid Collars? Though I don't believe they are available for the 3rd Gen Lexus IS, they are available for the 2nd Gen IS250/350 and IS-F.
I can't say for certain if all/some/none of the collars would be compatible with the newer model though...
I can't say for certain if all/some/none of the collars would be compatible with the newer model though...
I can spend all day reading this blog. these guys concentrate on the good stuff.
#41
Functional Chassis Braces will also make a noticeable difference with making the front and rear subframes feel more connected to the chassis (some more than others). Though these apply specifically to the 2nd Gen Lexus IS, I found these two specific braces to make a significant impact with improving rigidity with my car.
#42
Functional Chassis Braces will also make a noticeable difference with making the front and rear subframes feel more connected to the chassis (some more than others). Though these apply specifically to the 2nd Gen Lexus IS, I found these two specific braces to make a significant impact with improving rigidity with my car.
My BMW came with the middle and front one from the factory. Ties front subframe into the unibody. And the M3 comes w/ something like this rear one. Ties rear subframe.diff carrier to unibody.
here's the PDF install http://www.trdparts.jp/manual_pdf/is/MS300-53001.pdf
Last edited by E46CT; 06-26-18 at 02:11 PM.
#43
Yes. It was me. I fitted the RC350 Fsport rear sway bar to my IS. 3mm difference in diameter compared to the bar the same with my car, and also has a more sophisticated bushing.
Really worthwhile mod. Transforms turn in and moves balance from slightly nose heavy to neutral.
Really worthwhile mod. Transforms turn in and moves balance from slightly nose heavy to neutral.
#45
Lead Lap
iTrader: (5)
Quick update I decide to run the eibach rear sway bar 22mm over the oem RC 19mm. It not as hard a you think if you truly a DIY. Do you have to drop the subframe yes. Enough to get access to the bolts. Don’t have to complete detach everything and drop the whole subframe. First time doing it was a bit of challenge to learn as there no DIY guide. But after taking it in and out a few time to get the bar in and out I say 2-3hr DIY. A lot comes down to your bolt being rusted or stuck. This will be the first AWD with after market sway bar to my knowledge. It night and day over oem. Just pulling out the drive way o can feel the difference in the rear end. Worth the money no doubt.
The following 3 users liked this post by laobo979:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post