IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present) Discussion about the 2014+ model IS models

Stereo input/Amp output wiring

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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 03:36 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Fingers007
Loe, Hey, I tapped into pin 1 on the OEM amp to power my LC2 and to act as the remote wire for my LC2 and sub amp. But now the LC2 and sub amp are always on, even when the car is off. I have to physically pull the remote wire from the LC2 to have everything turn off. Do you think I should have tapped into pin 16? Thanks!!!

EDIT: From your wiring diagram, tapping into pin 16 should also cause the system to always be on. Do you know if there is a pin that acts like the ECU-ACC pin for the ML amp?
The remote wire should be tapped into something that only triggers when the car is on, so tapping into PIN 1 or 16 will not work to turn it on/off. I would tap into the ECU-ACC fuse or a cigarette charger. I am not 100% sure where the remote wire/PIN is on our OEM amp, even though the TIS does state we have one.

On your LC2i, do you have the GTO on or off? If you can't run another line to the front of the car, disconnect the remote wire on the LC2i and try to see if the GTO feature works on your car.

out of curiosity, are pins 8/23 and 9/24 filled on the ML system? If so, those might be the speaker-level (pre-amp) input wires on the ML system

Last edited by Loe; Jan 16, 2015 at 03:43 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 08:41 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Loe
The remote wire should be tapped into something that only triggers when the car is on, so tapping into PIN 1 or 16 will not work to turn it on/off. I would tap into the ECU-ACC fuse or a cigarette charger. I am not 100% sure where the remote wire/PIN is on our OEM amp, even though the TIS does state we have one.

On your LC2i, do you have the GTO on or off? If you can't run another line to the front of the car, disconnect the remote wire on the LC2i and try to see if the GTO feature works on your car.

out of curiosity, are pins 8/23 and 9/24 filled on the ML system? If so, those might be the speaker-level (pre-amp) input wires on the ML system
I have the GTO jumper in the stock position. I can't remember exactly what the stock position is but I can switch it and see if I even need a remote wire into the LC2. However, I will keep the remote wire from the LC2 to the sub amp.

I have the ML amp and 8/23 and 9/24 are not used.

I'm using the L speaker level inputs (10/25) to drive the left channel of the LC2. I think I'll also use the R speaker level inputs (11/26) to drive the right channel of the LC2 and see if sound quality improves.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Fingers007
I have the GTO jumper in the stock position. I can't remember exactly what the stock position is but I can switch it and see if I even need a remote wire into the LC2. However, I will keep the remote wire from the LC2 to the sub amp.

I have the ML amp and 8/23 and 9/24 are not used.

I'm using the L speaker level inputs (10/25) to drive the left channel of the LC2. I think I'll also use the R speaker level inputs (11/26) to drive the right channel of the LC2 and see if sound quality improves.
interesting...now I'm wondering if the wiring diagram is the same for both ML and non-ML systems. Yes, I would try to see if the GTO is on the GTO position, because then you may not need a remote-in connected (only the remote-out to your amp). Yes, the sound quality should be better if you use both channels to get all of the bass notes.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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I never could get the GTO option in my LC2 to work. It might be faulty. But the rest of the LC2 seems to work just fine. I tied my remote wire to the "ignition 3" fuse under the driver side dash. This fuse is only active when the car is on. Now I just need to tune my setup cause it sounds a little crappy.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:58 AM
  #20  
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I'll take a pic of my LC2i later on and post it. I had some crazy issues and finally got them sorted out. After blowing 2 Alpine type R 12's ( two separate times on a single woofer ) I was able to get a stereo shop to redo my install. Some wires werent pinned right, the Lc2i was off, but now its crazy loud.

Setup:
Lc2i
Alpine Mrx-M110 Amp
2x AlumaPro 12's
Custom Sealed Enclosure

This is loud and clear now. The subs get low and the mid-bass is real crisp. I actually needed to turn ir down due to too much bass, but I have it tuned to my personal liking now. I'll share settings later on.

Cheers.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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^^ do you know what pins they tapped into for yours?

Fingers007, glad you got it handled! The sound tuning is the most time consuming part (IMHO). A couple weeks later, I'm still trying to get the balanced sound I need. My bass is stronger around 40Hz (tested with a bass note CD) and it's either my: subwoofer/amp/LC2i/and the subwoofer line I tapped into. There are many adjustments between the LC2i & amp, so i'm fiddling with it a couple times a week.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 08:26 PM
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Sounds like fun!!!
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 03:15 PM
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(Deleted, didn't see page 2 on my phone)
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Fingers007
Sounds like fun!!!
Hi, are you getting full bass signals using the pre-amp speaker lines? I am wondering if I should do this to resolve my 40-50Hz frequency boom issue.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Loe
Hi, are you getting full bass signals using the pre-amp speaker lines? I am wondering if I should do this to resolve my 40-50Hz frequency boom issue.
I think so, I get plenty of bass. Is there any way to know for sure?
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:56 AM
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see if you get a flat response using this http://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests...cychecklow.php

I have an mp3 download I can upload and send a link to if you can't get it working.

Update, my LC2i doesn't even turn on using the pre-amp lines. I'm not sure what the issue is (I actually ended up damaging my LC2i, but Amazon replaced it for free, thank goodness for Prime membership!). I may end up spending a couple more dollars and get an LC7i that has an internal summing feature by connecting the front/rear/subwoofer channels and summing them up to create 6 full range signals

Last edited by Loe; Jan 28, 2015 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 01:37 PM
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Hey Guys,

Any new updates or test recently? I'm pulling research from many forums and analyzing everyone's work to see what has worked best so far. Thanks!
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 03:45 PM
  #28  
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Here is some extra insight: I tapped into the pre-amp signal and all audio is paused/turned down whenever I get a phone call. So I don't really see the point of the ML amp TMUT line when all audio seems to get paused at the head unit.

Anyways, Loe, how did you know that your LC2 didn't turn when you connected to the pre-amp lines?
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #29  
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Red power light never came on using the GTO feature. If I turned off the GTI feature and hooked up the remote in line, the power light worked, but no sound came out of the subwoofer regardless of where my gain was set at.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 08:03 AM
  #30  
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Loe, where to begin. I’ve never had a booming stereo system before so I had no idea what to expect. I’ve been using the pre-amp lines this whole time and thought I was getting plenty of bass. Unfortunately, or not, I was fooled by the stock subwoofer into thinking I was getting more bass. I knew the system wasn’t sounding that great and needed more tweaking, but dang, I was way off. This whole time my LC2 wasn’t really performing as expected because the pre-amp signal was not strong enough to turn on the LC2 using the GTO feature. Instead, I forced the LC2 to turn on by using the remote wire and the system sounds like crap. So now, I will try the subwoofer out lines instead and report back later. I guess you used the subwoofer out lines?
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