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I got different intake from them (Afe Takeda Stage 2 for RC350) because the time I was looking for one, they didn’t have one specifically for IS - still works great, and makes nice sound but had to bent the heat shield a bit to fit it correctly.
I got different intake from them (Afe Takeda Stage 2 for RC350) because the time I was looking for one, they didn’t have one specifically for IS - still works great, and makes nice sound but had to bent the heat shield a bit to fit it correctly.
I got different intake from them (Afe Takeda Stage 2 for RC350) because the time I was looking for one, they didn’t have one specifically for IS - still works great, and makes nice sound but had to bent the heat shield a bit to fit it correctly.
Be careful with air filters that require oiling. That filter oil blows on to the maf and your car starts to get poor air readings. I prefer oil filters that require no oiling. Otherwise, keep and eye and clean the maf with a lot more frequently.
If i may ask, i can use that intake but just a no oil filter and I'll be good to go?( thinking about getting a sprint booster v3 from same site to stop the delay when i put my foot down as well lol)
If i may ask, i can use that intake but just a no oil filter and I'll be good to go?( thinking about getting a sprint booster v3 from same site to stop the delay when i put my foot down as well lol)
Filtration is kind of a big deal, whatever the filter doesn’t retain ends up getting sucked into the engine.
I’d look into the F Sport intake.
Be careful with air filters that require oiling. That filter oil blows on to the maf and your car starts to get poor air readings. I prefer oil filters that require no oiling. Otherwise, keep and eye and clean the maf with a lot more frequently.
There are years of test on oil vs no oil filters on K&N's. The oil one's always out filters the no oil. The Dry filter also tend to develop small tears and holes longer term. Been running different oil ones for years now. Never ever a problem with oil on the MAF.
There is lots of history on this oil on MAF on the internet out there. There is a proper way to lightly spray coat for it to trap contaminates and exact instructions on it. Every case of oil on the MAF or elsewhere was lack of understanding, or not following the proper procedural instructions on how the clean and oil the filters.
Never heard of a Air Intake oil filter that requires no oil? What is this filter? lol!
There are years of test on oil vs no oil filters on K&N's. The oil one's always out filters the no oil. The Dry filter also tend to develop small tears and holes longer term. Been running different oil ones for years now. Never ever a problem with oil on the MAF.
There is lots of history on this oil on MAF on the internet out there. There is a proper way to lightly spray coat for it to trap contaminates and exact instructions on it. Every case of oil on the MAF or elsewhere was lack of understanding, or not following the proper procedural instructions on how the clean and oil the filters.
Never heard of a Air Intake oil filter that requires no oil? What is this filter? lol!
I believe the OEM F Sport intake uses a dry filter.
I understand the K&N filter philosophy, I’m an old guy, I was around when they first gained popularity. There has been a million imitators ever since.
I come from the turbo Subaru world, you’d always want to tune if installing an aftermarket air intake. I guess our naturally aspirated cars are not as sensitive and the computer learns to deal with the aftermarket intake.
I know for a fact even properly oiled the filter will spit on the maf and throttle body. Just have to clean the maf and throttle body more frequently.
I believe the OEM F Sport intake uses a dry filter.
I understand the K&N filter philosophy, I’m an old guy, I was around when they first gained popularity. There has been a million imitators ever since.
I come from the turbo Subaru world, you’d always want to tune if installing an aftermarket air intake. I guess our naturally aspirated cars are not as sensitive and the computer learns to deal with the aftermarket intake. I know for a fact even properly oiled the filter will spit on the maf and throttle body. Just have to clean the maf and throttle body more frequently.
I've been using them for a while also, and use both the Factory drop in and Cone wet oiled filters. Even now I have them on my cars and SUV's. The reason why I never have any oil on my MAF is that I lightly oil them per the procedure that K&N instructs. The Oiled Filter's have 2 layered materials as their make up. Lightly coating them allows the materials to absorb the oil and stay in the 2 layer filter materials. The whole idea is that the oil traps in the materials, the dirt and contaminates. If the oiled trapped contaminates moved and flowed out then they would go in and defeat the purpose of containing the contaminates.
So again..... when you tell me that that oil is getting on your MAF and TB, that tells me that the filter is over oiled improperly, that the oil was not just absorbed in the 2 stage materials. As a example, lets say you have 2 old rags you use for cleaning your hands after do oil changes. One happens to be Gauze material. After a oil change you wipe a light amount, (as you should oil the filters lightly), and the rags become to be dirty with oil. Now you take the 2 rags and put them together. Using some form of vacuum air you try to actually suck some liquid oil through to contaminate something behind with oil. If you succeed in getting that oil behind, then your rags had a good amount of soaked oil on them. If you could not, then the oil was absorbed by the rags still and will stay there, stained with oil still.
It's a been discussed on the web for years and years. It's all about the skills and manner of discipline of the amount used to lightly coat to Absorb in the Filter layers only. In addition most don't really know how delicate the MAF is and how easily damaged it is if it's cleaned improperly. Many a MAF has also gone bad when only a OEM air filter is used having nothing to do with it. While I do understand what you are saying about cleaning the MAF and TB more frequently. With due respect you can understand that I am saying that the solution that has been well known and proven. Is to Oil it properly and lightly to begin with. No oil should be spraying out that 2 stage trap filter if cleaned and oiled properly to begin with. With that my experienced long term advise, is to change the way you clean and retreat the filter, and use far less oil, to absorb and be retained in the 2 layer filter elements only. Just saying.
I've been using them for a while also, and use both the Factory drop in and Cone wet oiled filters. Even now I have them on my cars and SUV's. The reason why I never have any oil on my MAF is that I lightly oil them per the procedure that K&N instructs. The Oiled Filter's have 2 layered materials as their make up. Lightly coating them allows the materials to absorb the oil and stay in the 2 layer filter materials. The whole idea is that the oil traps in the materials, the dirt and contaminates. If the oiled trapped contaminates moved and flowed out then they would go in and defeat the purpose of containing the contaminates.
So again..... when you tell me that that oil is getting on your MAF and TB, that tells me that the filter is over oiled improperly, that the oil was not just absorbed in the 2 stage materials. As a example, lets say you have 2 old rags you use for cleaning your hands after do oil changes. One happens to be Gauze material. After a oil change you wipe a light amount, (as you should oil the filters lightly), and the rags become to be dirty with oil. Now you take the 2 rags and put them together. Using some form of vacuum air you try to actually suck some liquid oil through to contaminate something behind with oil. If you succeed in getting that oil behind, then your rags had a good amount of soaked oil on them. If you could not, then the oil was absorbed by the rags still and will stay there, stained with oil still.
It's a been discussed on the web for years and years. It's all about the skills and manner of discipline of the amount used to lightly coat to Absorb in the Filter layers only. In addition most don't really know how delicate the MAF is and how easily damaged it is if it's cleaned improperly. Many a MAF has also gone bad when only a OEM air filter is used having nothing to do with it. While I do understand what you are saying about cleaning the MAF and TB more frequently. With due respect you can understand that I am saying that the solution that has been well known and proven. Is to Oil it properly and lightly to begin with. No oil should be spraying out that 2 stage trap filter if cleaned and oiled properly to begin with. With that my experienced long term advise, is to change the way you clean and retreat the filter, and use far less oil, to absorb and be retained in the 2 layer filter elements only. Just saying.
Actually thank you for this!
It’s first time i’m using oil filter so wasn’t sure how to properly oil it back, glad I found your post. I have aFe Takeda Stage 2 Intake with Oil Filter.
Do you know how often you should clean it and re-oil it?
I put mine in December and drove maybe 1,5k miles on it so far.
I've been using them for a while also, and use both the Factory drop in and Cone wet oiled filters. Even now I have them on my cars and SUV's. The reason why I never have any oil on my MAF is that I lightly oil them per the procedure that K&N instructs. The Oiled Filter's have 2 layered materials as their make up. Lightly coating them allows the materials to absorb the oil and stay in the 2 layer filter materials. The whole idea is that the oil traps in the materials, the dirt and contaminates. If the oiled trapped contaminates moved and flowed out then they would go in and defeat the purpose of containing the contaminates.
So again..... when you tell me that that oil is getting on your MAF and TB, that tells me that the filter is over oiled improperly, that the oil was not just absorbed in the 2 stage materials. As a example, lets say you have 2 old rags you use for cleaning your hands after do oil changes. One happens to be Gauze material. After a oil change you wipe a light amount, (as you should oil the filters lightly), and the rags become to be dirty with oil. Now you take the 2 rags and put them together. Using some form of vacuum air you try to actually suck some liquid oil through to contaminate something behind with oil. If you succeed in getting that oil behind, then your rags had a good amount of soaked oil on them. If you could not, then the oil was absorbed by the rags still and will stay there, stained with oil still.
It's a been discussed on the web for years and years. It's all about the skills and manner of discipline of the amount used to lightly coat to Absorb in the Filter layers only. In addition most don't really know how delicate the MAF is and how easily damaged it is if it's cleaned improperly. Many a MAF has also gone bad when only a OEM air filter is used having nothing to do with it. While I do understand what you are saying about cleaning the MAF and TB more frequently. With due respect you can understand that I am saying that the solution that has been well known and proven. Is to Oil it properly and lightly to begin with. No oil should be spraying out that 2 stage trap filter if cleaned and oiled properly to begin with. With that my experienced long term advise, is to change the way you clean and retreat the filter, and use far less oil, to absorb and be retained in the 2 layer filter elements only. Just saying.
I used oil filters on my dirt bikes when I was a kid. I moved here the last two weeks from the turbo Subaru world. I ran stock air box on all my Subies as they don’t really benefit from aftermarket intake until you are running 350 wheel horse power and above. I’m a paper filter in stock air box boy. Any time I put an aftermarket air intake system on my car it was either made by Subaru Performance Tuning or Cobb, no crappy stuff. I’d go back to stock air box in a week after getting stuck behind a truck sandblasting everyone behind. I’d get paranoid my engine was sucking a bunch of sand. I’m going to be 60 years old later this year and have finally decided to stop modifying my cars. Otherwise I’d be installing an RR supercharger to start with. I’m determined to keep my car as close to oem stock as possible, we shall see, old habits die hard.
Last edited by NYIS300awdFS; Mar 11, 2024 at 08:42 PM.
I used oil filters on my dirt bikes when I was a kid. I moved here the last two weeks from the turbo Subaru world. I ran stock air box on all my Subies as they don’t really benefit from aftermarket intake until you are running 350 wheel horse power and above. I’m a paper filter in stock air box boy. Any time I put an aftermarket air intake system on my car it was either made by Subaru Performance Tuning or Cobb, no crappy stuff. I’d go back to stock air box in a week after getting stuck behind a truck sandblasting everyone behind. I’d get paranoid my engine was sucking a bunch of sand. I’m going to be 60 years old later this year and have finally decided to stop modifying my cars. Otherwise I’d be installing an RR supercharger to start with. I’m determined to keep my car as close to oem stock as possible, we shall see, old habits die hard.
I want to first Welcome you to the CL Lexus Forums! I myself was new after owning Lexus/Toy's for some years prior to joining on the Sig date you see on my profile. I don't want to go off topic of the OP's original thread but I'll address each one of your different post comments above, then lets keep it back on track to the IS350 2GR, 3.5 V6 Intake questions.
On the Subaru which is not relevant, but mentioned by you. I had a good friend who owed a shop who did 4 or 5 of those engine replacement at just over 100k miles for customers, and I was in the shop seeing the progress he made. So that's a totally different engine, being a Boxer 4cyl Turbo engine. The 2GR V6 is a whole different engine completely. Closer of a comparison would be the Lexus IS, GS and others IS200T 4cyl inline 4 Turbo. Intake's do work on both a Stock STI, and the Lexus IS200T, very well. There is a major Internet Narrative trend that goes on about Intakes that ppl repeat, and just don't have the actual data on, and repeat the, it won't work, even though they do work very well. Just for comparison sake I linked some STI and comparison Lexus 200T data below from those who actually did the testing accurately.
In regards you you being Paranoid about "behind a truck sandblasting everyone": There are some really accurate testing that has been done by Industry respected Filter Engineers. They determined that the K&N Oiled filter actually filter better than stock ones. A few reasons were that their test using cert Lab equipment, confirmed K&N Engineering claims, that the 2 layer materials actually tighten to filter better when air flow turbulence affect's them by engine air intake rpm. Seen and read the test many times, and the validation that went with it. I also always personally add a extra screens for 30% more protection w/out impeding the higher flow rate link below. In addition I would have in any way shape or form gotten from behind a sand truck asap! https://www.knfilters.com/sn-2520pk-air-filter-wrap.
Back on track..... My personal choice for the 2GR is the AEM Intake. This choice is also been advised to me by a Lexus Tuner of the ECU who has has 1000's plus of hours using the different Intake and configurations. I currently have and have used the Ingen Cone Intake, Lexus F Sport Air box, Tube and Filter, The AME Tube and Drop in and their full Cone, and the Takeda full cone is a good one also. The AME is flow bench tested by AEM. I had the best results with this one. In addition they reroute the PCV vent tube from being connected to the Intake thus reducing the Intake temps lower by quite a bit. The Takeda is good too as far as performance and lower maintenance, but the AME is the best. As you can see there is likely many unaware that there have been many Data logs and data measure to back up the Intake results on the Lexus 2GR engine. I myself have validated, but did not post my results due to having other changes like Flow Bench Measure Ported lower and upper Intake Manifold and Enlarged Ported/Polished TB.
Here is one last engine guy who does some nice stuff to the 2GR, the start of his works with just Bolt ones, Intakes, Exhaust. If you look back in his 2GR starting Vids, he's gained as much as +65rhp, with just those mods alone. He has many prev and current Vids.
Another well known long time engine builder of Chargers, to Civics, then Supra's to Suburbs and back. He explain how well build designed the 2GR motor is even that it uses some modern Race engine designs.
BTW: Just a tip, the S/C is really not the way to go on these motors if you want them to last anytime. A shot of 50 - 100 Nitrous used just every now and then is ok if setup properly to deter detonation. It's too bad they no longer sell the tom's S/C kit for the 2GR, it was restricted on Boost activation until it was floored. Not providing boost every time you particle accelerate. Also there are many, many of us here, at the +/- 60 year old mark. Many.
Last edited by jgscott; Mar 12, 2024 at 06:37 PM.
Reason: grammar
