A week ago I purchased a 2017 IS300 awd F sport. The car fax showed no accident history and spotty maintenance records. I would have preferred a vehicle with impeccable service records but the price properly reflected the situation. It was at a Nissan dealer, they installed two cheap all season tires in the back, there are two close to new different brand cheap all season tires up front. The dealer replaced front and rear brake pads, I’m sure they installed the cheapest pads they could get their hands on. They did an oil change and installed an after market oil filter that didn’t quite fit, I found it kind of crushed inside the housing. The car had 58,000 miles on the clock when I got it, 3 prior owners before me. The car is in beautiful condition, like it was loved but I’m sure it has had minimal to no services and probably no premium fuel during its time before me. In a week I drove the vehicle 1300 miles, ran good but it seemed to kind of stumble a bit off the line on gentle take off. I have not driven the car hard, wanting to get the 60,000 service done before I start to give it some. Today I started by changing the oil and oil filter, oem oil filter and Mobil 1 0w20 high miles was on sale at Walmart. Also installed 6 oem spark plugs, oem air filter element and cabin filter, oem pcv, cleaned the maf, cleaned the throttle body. Next weekend I plan on doing the transmission oil flush, the front and rear diff oil replacement and hopefully the RR Racing lower control arm bushings if they arrive on time. Lastly but not the least, I’ll replace the brake fluid.

 

I'm in the same situation, purchased my 2014 IS350 RWD F-Sport 8 days ago with 60k miles...the history on Lexus doesn't show anything more recent than 2 years ago. Gonna perform the 60k service in the next couple of weeks, now in the process of gathering all of the materials. Don't forget to replace the Smart Key batteries on your key fobs...super-simple and takes literally 1 minute to do. (there are a bunch of YouTube videos showing how to do it). The batteries are CR2032.

 

Congratulations on your purchase and best of luck with it. Thanks for reminding me about the key fob battery, totally forgot about that, I keep those batteries in stock at my bike shop, many bicycle computers use 2032.
Ended up taking the car to Lexus first thing in the morning, they quoted me $400 do to the transmission and both front and rear differentials. They said they could do it while I waited so I went for it. I just need to do the brake fluid myself and the key fob battery and the car is all up to date on service.
it feels and runs like a new car.

 

What is that fitting on the far right?

 

PCV valve.

 

Those plugs are iridium, those should last at least 100k, your old one looks just fine. I ran indium on my Mk4 Supra with 700hp and last a long while.
I understand you want to maintain your car but there is a thing as throwing away money..

 

I’ve been throwing $ away on cars since my first car, a Mazda RX2 back in the early 80’s when I got my driver license. My father was a muscle car guy and tried to warn me about the rotary but I wanted it. I damaged 2 engines in less than a year before my love for that car died. I have modified and wasted money on everything I’ve ever owned that gave me satisfaction. Long story short, I’ve been plying with turbo Subarus the last 20 years, that was also a lot of wasted money that also gave me tremendous satisfaction. I know iridium plugs can last 100,000 miles, yet I would replace them at 30-40,000 miles. Not because I like to waste money but because I like knowing the **** is good to go. Also because I learned along the way that preventive maintenance is cheaper than replacing engines and transmission. I do not wait till things fail, I’m a preventive maintenance kind of idiot. I purchased my IS300 from a Nissan dealer and no service records outside of what I could see on the carfax. So what you see as a waste I see as a necessity because I need to know my **** is up to date and good to go. You probably don’t want to know what I’ve spent on mountain bikes the last 35 years or road racing bikes longer than that, how about motorcycles, forget it.
60,000 mile service calls for new plugs and the car liked it, I can feel the difference. I will also be draining my supposedly 10,000 mile Mobil1 oil at 5,000 miles, always. Just like I had the transmission and differentials oil changed, manual doesn’t say to do it. I will also change the brake oil and radiator fluid, before the clock hits 60,000. Nissan dearer installed a set of cheap tires and brake pads, you have no idea how I’m struggling to not have them **** removed. Im fighting myself from installing a set of Conti DWS. Just like I’m struggling to not remove the ****ty noisy and dusty brake pads and install a new set of Akebono. I give myself a week or two before the ****ty brake pads **** me off enough and land in the trash. Thanks for visiting and contributing to my thread. Do you want a ****ty set of low mile Chinese all season tires ? Free if you want them, perfect excuse for me to replace them. Just pay for shipping and they are yours Tony.

 

As someone who bought their 3IS with 30k and has beaten on it for 140k+ miles, RR FBO tuned for 100k+ miles. I can tell you Lexus has made quite a reliable car that can withstand abuse if taken care of.

With the maintenance you just completed, you will be good for another 100k.

My advice to anyone who wants to keep the car for the long haul, use good quality oil (Amsoil, Mobil EP, PUP) if you drive hard and change it at 5k.

 

That’s the idea, bring the car service up to date and keep up with it to hopefully have a good reliable car to give my daughter in a few years when I get a used IS500.

 

LoL don't get your panties in a bunch, this a daily car not a high hp car or race bikes, apples to oranges. If you want to go on your experience with background, I have also ran Kawi 636 and 6R, along with my Ducati 748R on weekend races. I have owned MK4 supra pushing over 700hp, rx7, current a dodge viper with over 50 cars owned. Tires, fluids, etc.. all need to be at peak perfirmance. So yes I know what your saying but wanted to point out that normal daily driver, it's not really needed and not normal maintenance. In the end, you do you, don't really care.

 

I had to check, my panties got all twisted, yes. Just got my RR Racing bushings, so I guess my car is now a race car.
I take care of all my equipment, been cheap is expensive.
Here is some more $ waisting for your pleasure Tony.



I had my share of Ducati and Aprilia motorcycles. Go ahead and extend the belt service on your Ducati.

 

😆 🤣 lol ok buddy

 

I like you already, you are my first oficial friend here Tony.


And just to make it clear for Internet eternity, on page 55 of my warranty and service guide is the official maintenance guide for my 2017 Lexus IS300 awd.
I favor following the manufacturer maintenance recommendations. I will adjust the guidelines as I feel it is best in order to give my vehicle a chance at a long life.

 

I’ve already started thinking about the next oil change. From what I can see the original owner was following the Lexus recommendation of 10-12,000 mile oil change intervals. The second owner had the car a short amount of time and left no service records. The third owner put the bulk of the miles on the car but also left no service records. I’m assuming every owner was neglectful or at a minimum was comfortable installing synthetic oil and drove 10-12,000 miles between oil changes. The Nissan dealer I purchased the car from did an oil change. Found a cheap oil filter crushed inside the housing. Filter was not fully and properly seated and got crushed as the filter housing was installed and over tightened. I drove about 1300 miles with that oil filter sitting crushed and not filtering not knowing and before I could get to start to service my car. I think an engine flush would be a good idea but I fear getting oil leaks later from the use of a flush. Im thinking about doing very short oil service intervals with decent oil quality, not Amsoil Signature as an example. Perhaps 3000 mile oil change intervals with Pennzoil or Valvoline high mile full synthetic oil. They have very good cleaning properties and are fairly cheap, no need to feel too bad about draining it too early. I used mobil1 high mile oil for my first change but I think I will give other brands a chance to see how it goes. From what I can see my engine does not look sludged up but I want to be proactive about keeping clean engine internals.

Ordered Valvoline 0w20 Restore and Protect for my next oil change, $54 shipped to my door I think it’s a good deal for middle of the road quality oil that promises exactly what I’m looking for.

 

Unless you are driving it really hard, with those synthetic oils you could probably get away with going for a longer interval than 3,000, at least 5,000. If you want to know exactly how your oil is doing, have you thought about doing an oil analysis?