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I’m considering doing a DIY changing out my LCA bushings on my 250. I’ve seen a few videos on YouTube and most of it looks doable. Undo the bolts then use a pry bar to pry the control arm down to allow the bushing assembly to slide out. My main question is, does the wheel have to be off the ground for this? For example if I put the car on ramps can it be done or does the wheel have to be off the ground to release the load and allow prying the control arm to get the flex?
I’m considering doing a DIY changing out my LCA bushings on my 250. I’ve seen a few videos on YouTube and most of it looks doable. Undo the bolts then use a pry bar to pry the control arm down to allow the bushing assembly to slide out. My main question is, does the wheel have to be off the ground for this? For example if I put the car on ramps can it be done or does the wheel have to be off the ground to release the load and allow prying the control arm to get the flex?
There is a whole thread on this topic. Please do a search.
In short, hanging is best as it will fight you sitting on ramps.
Two big tips!
1) On each side, measure from the end of the lower control arm threaded shaft to a fixed point that won't be removed during this repair. Record for both sides. You are measuring 90° to fixed point.
2) Replace one LCAB leaving the nut and mounting bolts loose. Measure to the fixed point and force the end of control back to where it was and tighten the LCAB bolts. Check measurement. Left to right needs to return to where it was or you will need an alignment. Repeat on other side.
3) Lower tires onto ramps applying full weight of car. Tighten the big nuts. Doing this step with the tires hanging will ruin your new OEM parts. Disregard wheels hanging if using poly replacements.
PS if going OEM use the RC-F LCAB... They cost the same and drive better.
The following discussion is one that has information provided by many members which assisted me with successfully performing the LCA busing install using ramps,
3) Lower tires onto ramps applying full weight of car. Tighten the big nuts. Doing this step with the tires hanging will ruin your new OEM parts. Disregard wheels hanging if using poly replacements.
I am trying to better understand this part. Are you referring to the single big but on each LCAB that goes on the centre cone rubber itself? Because the other two bolts that hold the LCAB to the subframe I can’t think of how wheels hanging will effect tightening that. But the big centre nut I understand maybe if the weight of the car isn’t on it then the black rubber bushings can spin out?
also, if this is done on ramps in the first place without removing wheels then the weight of car is already on wheels right? It doesn’t need to be on the ground? Being upwards tilted on the ramp is sufficient?
I am trying to better understand this part. Are you referring to the single big but on each LCAB that goes on the centre cone rubber itself? Because the other two bolts that hold the LCAB to the subframe I can’t think of how wheels hanging will effect tightening that. But the big centre nut I understand maybe if the weight of the car isn’t on it then the black rubber bushings can spin out?
also, if this is done on ramps in the first place without removing wheels then the weight of car is already on wheels right? It doesn’t need to be on the ground? Being upwards tilted on the ramp is sufficient?
Yes, the big nut. Do the work however you see fit but suspension unloaded is a lot easier.
Once installed and the body tightened in place, lower the nose so the springs are holding the car up and tighten the nuts.
Not doing this will shorten the life of the new parts.