2008 IS250 Transmission?
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4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 4
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From: KANSAS
2008 IS250 Transmission?
Hi,
I Just got a 2008 Is250 and I noticed that the car likes to be his high gears at low speeds (it will shift to 5th even at 20 mph). The result of this high shifting causes the car to be underpowered and shake on inclines. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I figured that it is a problem with tranny, but it shifts smooth (too smooth in fact to the point it is in 5th at low speed). What do you guys think?
Thank you in advance
I Just got a 2008 Is250 and I noticed that the car likes to be his high gears at low speeds (it will shift to 5th even at 20 mph). The result of this high shifting causes the car to be underpowered and shake on inclines. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I figured that it is a problem with tranny, but it shifts smooth (too smooth in fact to the point it is in 5th at low speed). What do you guys think?
Thank you in advance
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 4
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From: KANSAS
Honestly, I am worried that it is something with the transmission, so I am letting it do its thing without interfering. Otherwise, I could just use paddle to keep it in low gears. Just don't want to stain it. But I will definitely try that for trial purposes.
Appreciate the response.
Appreciate the response.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 406
Likes: 117
From: Colorado
I don't think there's anything wrong with the described behavior, if you want the engine to run better at lower RPMs without shaking, I suggest decarbonizing the intake manifold. I take the brake booster hose off and feed a can of Sea Foam into a warm engine, let the engine cool, then start it up and lay smoke screens, but you can use the other techniques mentioned on this forum.
I tend to decarb once every other oil change or so, which is more than necessary for an otherwise healthy engine.
Edit: I'm assuming when you floor it, it downshifts like it's supposed to. If you're flooring it and there's no downshift, yeah, you have a transmission issue. If you're just cruising along and it seeks the gear for the lowest RPM, though, that's normal as long as it's not trying to stall the engine...an engine running crappy at low RPMs is one of the telltales of a carbon-loaded intake.
I tend to decarb once every other oil change or so, which is more than necessary for an otherwise healthy engine.
Edit: I'm assuming when you floor it, it downshifts like it's supposed to. If you're flooring it and there's no downshift, yeah, you have a transmission issue. If you're just cruising along and it seeks the gear for the lowest RPM, though, that's normal as long as it's not trying to stall the engine...an engine running crappy at low RPMs is one of the telltales of a carbon-loaded intake.
Last edited by Ultra4; Jun 15, 2022 at 11:59 AM.
Is it getting the right fuel? These engines are designed for 91 octane or better. If it's carboned up and running on regular 87 RON, it likely is sluggish to respond and low on power.
Follow the advice above mine and get the carbon out as well as give it some better quality fuel.
Follow the advice above mine and get the carbon out as well as give it some better quality fuel.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 406
Likes: 117
From: Colorado
Randomly popping in to clarify that I feed Sea Foam into the brake booster hose going into the engine with the engine running. I have yet to hear of someone hydrolocking an engine with Sea Foam, but I don't want to be the reason why someone else finds out.
Thumb over the hose, control the engine RPMs with how much air/SF you let past your thumb, so as to get as much of it spread through as much of the intake as possible. I tend to stick the hose in the can and suck up the last half of it, sometime it'll stall, sometimes it won't. Let it cool, then take it for a spin around the block cosplaying as a smokelayer for the invasion of Poland.
Thumb over the hose, control the engine RPMs with how much air/SF you let past your thumb, so as to get as much of it spread through as much of the intake as possible. I tend to stick the hose in the can and suck up the last half of it, sometime it'll stall, sometimes it won't. Let it cool, then take it for a spin around the block cosplaying as a smokelayer for the invasion of Poland.
My take is try a WIX air filter. For the IS250 I feel the OEM is too restrictive. As for decarb it's a good idea as well. At 40k it should already be showing major build up on the intake valves.
I normally spray through the RHD brake booster port. The one next to the throttle body that's capped off. Using a 3/8" fuel hose, and industrial spray bottle. Holding at 2000 rpms misting not trying to stall the engine.
Clean MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. See instructions on YouTube.
I normally spray through the RHD brake booster port. The one next to the throttle body that's capped off. Using a 3/8" fuel hose, and industrial spray bottle. Holding at 2000 rpms misting not trying to stall the engine.
Clean MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. See instructions on YouTube.
Last edited by MikeFig82; Jun 16, 2022 at 09:08 AM.
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