Potential buy carfax
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: ON
Potential buy carfax
hi guys so tomorow iam going to look at a is250 2009 with about 159000km on it so about 99k miles
here is the carfax https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=Fm9gzRiRut...PiPoXChwk7g8SP
here is the car https://www.sixthgearmotors.com/inve...v_z4O5NTPXKJRk
shows small claims on it, but overall what do u guys think if everything checks out is it a good buy for the price? any problems i should look out for?
only thing is there is a large spot of mileage missing which makes me skeptical of the actual mileage on the car
here is the carfax https://vhr.carfax.ca/?id=Fm9gzRiRut...PiPoXChwk7g8SP
here is the car https://www.sixthgearmotors.com/inve...v_z4O5NTPXKJRk
shows small claims on it, but overall what do u guys think if everything checks out is it a good buy for the price? any problems i should look out for?
only thing is there is a large spot of mileage missing which makes me skeptical of the actual mileage on the car
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 364
Likes: 64
From: MO
I do not like those Canada carfax, they are so bogus.
The rear end collision is nothing, $942 is a slight scrape fender bender.
On US carfax it states if chassis damage or superficial and exactly where it happened.
I do not get it why so many blanl odometer readings. On the good side, the car has been to alot of services. I think it shows where they took the car. If maybe you can go w the VIN and check in their system.
Bring a magnet w you, the hood is aluminum while the rest of the car is steel besides the bumpers of course.
Confirm all VIN # match, hood, dash, doors, trunk.
Buying a car is just like a house, where you at is it a buyers market, how many cars are available and for what price and condition in your area as that plays a big factor. Do a search in Autotrader and in FB marketplace and if possible bring to the dealer, may help when attempting giving an offer.
Those 250s of that yr are found in the US for about 7k to 8k w those miles. Open all doors and see where the paint meets the frame. A car that was painted will have the paint line. Bring a flashlight and a OBDII scanner, ask to drive alone and then once on the road hook it up, check for cleared codes. W flashlight look under dash, seats for ruat, signs of flooding. All lights should come up on the dash, Snow, Power, Cruise, no dead lightbulbs in cluster.
Take it for a spin, test cruise control, turn on AC, tire wear, do hard braking, does steering shake etc.
If you do a search on this forum, your question has been asked way too many times. I highly suggest a PPI, pre purchase inspection, do not believe their mechanic. If you take to a shop, have em remove some of those plastic covers. I went to buy one, was leaking from valve covers for a long time. They should hook up a ECU scanner to check codes and when was the last time it had a check engine light.
Am.not sure you have seen other is250s, but after you review three or four, is easy to spot their common problems and can somewhat read vehicle overall condition and a feels right test drive should be. The vehicle does not have navigation which I like, I prefer the no nav look, the system is outdated, which can work in your favor saying you wish it had it, lol. It looks like it does not have memory seats.
I recommend to look at other cars on the lot, take your time (do not go hungry to go see the vehicle) so you do not look like that is the car you really want, if they sense that in you, game over on working on the asking price.
IMO, the car does not look in bad shape for a 09 vehicle. Whoever had it, I think, took good care of it. It has less than 10k miles per yr, which is under the expected average.
Comparing to US market, to me, the price tag is a little on the high side. I still emphasize take it to a shop and put it in lifts, will reveal if it was taken for joyrides, chassis damage, excessive rust. And like I always tell new owners, have an extra 1k for expected repairs, maintenance.
good luck
The rear end collision is nothing, $942 is a slight scrape fender bender.
On US carfax it states if chassis damage or superficial and exactly where it happened.
I do not get it why so many blanl odometer readings. On the good side, the car has been to alot of services. I think it shows where they took the car. If maybe you can go w the VIN and check in their system.
Bring a magnet w you, the hood is aluminum while the rest of the car is steel besides the bumpers of course.
Confirm all VIN # match, hood, dash, doors, trunk.
Buying a car is just like a house, where you at is it a buyers market, how many cars are available and for what price and condition in your area as that plays a big factor. Do a search in Autotrader and in FB marketplace and if possible bring to the dealer, may help when attempting giving an offer.
Those 250s of that yr are found in the US for about 7k to 8k w those miles. Open all doors and see where the paint meets the frame. A car that was painted will have the paint line. Bring a flashlight and a OBDII scanner, ask to drive alone and then once on the road hook it up, check for cleared codes. W flashlight look under dash, seats for ruat, signs of flooding. All lights should come up on the dash, Snow, Power, Cruise, no dead lightbulbs in cluster.
Take it for a spin, test cruise control, turn on AC, tire wear, do hard braking, does steering shake etc.
If you do a search on this forum, your question has been asked way too many times. I highly suggest a PPI, pre purchase inspection, do not believe their mechanic. If you take to a shop, have em remove some of those plastic covers. I went to buy one, was leaking from valve covers for a long time. They should hook up a ECU scanner to check codes and when was the last time it had a check engine light.
Am.not sure you have seen other is250s, but after you review three or four, is easy to spot their common problems and can somewhat read vehicle overall condition and a feels right test drive should be. The vehicle does not have navigation which I like, I prefer the no nav look, the system is outdated, which can work in your favor saying you wish it had it, lol. It looks like it does not have memory seats.
I recommend to look at other cars on the lot, take your time (do not go hungry to go see the vehicle) so you do not look like that is the car you really want, if they sense that in you, game over on working on the asking price.
IMO, the car does not look in bad shape for a 09 vehicle. Whoever had it, I think, took good care of it. It has less than 10k miles per yr, which is under the expected average.
Comparing to US market, to me, the price tag is a little on the high side. I still emphasize take it to a shop and put it in lifts, will reveal if it was taken for joyrides, chassis damage, excessive rust. And like I always tell new owners, have an extra 1k for expected repairs, maintenance.
good luck
Last edited by GrizzlyMan; Apr 9, 2021 at 01:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: ON
I do not like those Canada carfax, they are so bogus.
The rear end collision is nothing, $942 is a slight scrape fender bender.
On US carfax it states if chassis damage or superficial and exactly where it happened.
I do not get it why so many blanl odometer readings. On the good side, the car has been to alot of services. I think it shows where they took the car. If maybe you can go w the VIN and check in their system.
Bring a magnet w you, the hood is aluminum while the rest of the car is steel besides the bumpers of course.
Confirm all VIN # match, hood, dash, doors, trunk.
Buying a car is just like a house, where you at is it a buyers market, how many cars are available and for what price and condition in your area as that plays a big factor. Do a search in Autotrader and in FB marketplace and if possible bring to the dealer, may help when attempting giving an offer.
Those 250s of that yr are found in the US for about 7k to 8k w those miles. Open all doors and see where the paint meets the frame. A car that was painted will have the paint line. Bring a flashlight and a OBDII scanner, ask to drive alone and then once on the road hook it up, check for cleared codes. W flashlight look under dash, seats for ruat, signs of flooding. All lights should come up on the dash, Snow, Power, Cruise, no dead lightbulbs in cluster.
Take it for a spin, test cruise control, turn on AC, tire wear, do hard braking, does steering shake etc.
If you do a search on this forum, your question has been asked way too many times. I highly suggest a PPI, pre purchase inspection, do not believe their mechanic. If you take to a shop, have em remove some of those plastic covers. I went to buy one, was leaking from valve covers for a long time. They should hook up a ECU scanner to check codes and when was the last time it had a check engine light.
Am.not sure you have seen other is250s, but after you review three or four, is easy to spot their common problems and can somewhat read vehicle overall condition and a feels right test drive should be. The vehicle does not have navigation which I like, I prefer the no nav look, the system is outdated, which can work in your favor saying you wish it had it, lol. It looks like it does not have memory seats.
I recommend to look at other cars on the lot, take your time (do not go hungry to go see the vehicle) so you do not look like that is the car you really want, if they sense that in you, game over on working on the asking price.
IMO, the car does not look in bad shape for a 09 vehicle. Whoever had it, I think, took good care of it. It has less than 10k miles per yr, which is under the expected average.
Comparing to US market, to me, the price tag is a little on the high side. I still emphasize take it to a shop and put it in lifts, will reveal if it was taken for joyrides, chassis damage, excessive rust. And like I always tell new owners, have an extra 1k for expected repairs, maintenance.
good luck
The rear end collision is nothing, $942 is a slight scrape fender bender.
On US carfax it states if chassis damage or superficial and exactly where it happened.
I do not get it why so many blanl odometer readings. On the good side, the car has been to alot of services. I think it shows where they took the car. If maybe you can go w the VIN and check in their system.
Bring a magnet w you, the hood is aluminum while the rest of the car is steel besides the bumpers of course.
Confirm all VIN # match, hood, dash, doors, trunk.
Buying a car is just like a house, where you at is it a buyers market, how many cars are available and for what price and condition in your area as that plays a big factor. Do a search in Autotrader and in FB marketplace and if possible bring to the dealer, may help when attempting giving an offer.
Those 250s of that yr are found in the US for about 7k to 8k w those miles. Open all doors and see where the paint meets the frame. A car that was painted will have the paint line. Bring a flashlight and a OBDII scanner, ask to drive alone and then once on the road hook it up, check for cleared codes. W flashlight look under dash, seats for ruat, signs of flooding. All lights should come up on the dash, Snow, Power, Cruise, no dead lightbulbs in cluster.
Take it for a spin, test cruise control, turn on AC, tire wear, do hard braking, does steering shake etc.
If you do a search on this forum, your question has been asked way too many times. I highly suggest a PPI, pre purchase inspection, do not believe their mechanic. If you take to a shop, have em remove some of those plastic covers. I went to buy one, was leaking from valve covers for a long time. They should hook up a ECU scanner to check codes and when was the last time it had a check engine light.
Am.not sure you have seen other is250s, but after you review three or four, is easy to spot their common problems and can somewhat read vehicle overall condition and a feels right test drive should be. The vehicle does not have navigation which I like, I prefer the no nav look, the system is outdated, which can work in your favor saying you wish it had it, lol. It looks like it does not have memory seats.
I recommend to look at other cars on the lot, take your time (do not go hungry to go see the vehicle) so you do not look like that is the car you really want, if they sense that in you, game over on working on the asking price.
IMO, the car does not look in bad shape for a 09 vehicle. Whoever had it, I think, took good care of it. It has less than 10k miles per yr, which is under the expected average.
Comparing to US market, to me, the price tag is a little on the high side. I still emphasize take it to a shop and put it in lifts, will reveal if it was taken for joyrides, chassis damage, excessive rust. And like I always tell new owners, have an extra 1k for expected repairs, maintenance.
good luck
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: ON
hey grizzly, ended up buying another 07 with 169k km on it two owner fully fully loaded with AFS everything minus the sound system upgrade, had only one claim of 9k front right in 2011 apart from that two owner full service history on the Carfax, two keys, original sticker in the manuals, all that for 9k safety and tax in
now iam just worried about the steering column lock thing because i had a Mercedes e350 2008 that it went back on and left me stranded so iam just concerned if the ones on the lexus go bad because if so then id wanna replace it before it does go bad
now iam just worried about the steering column lock thing because i had a Mercedes e350 2008 that it went back on and left me stranded so iam just concerned if the ones on the lexus go bad because if so then id wanna replace it before it does go bad
Pit Crew
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 104
Likes: 30
From: Ontario
That being said, there aren't many issues with these except for carbon deposits on the intake valves (the 250 is GDI only); it can be remedied, but it's not something I'd recommend to try unless you really know what you're doing.
Otherwise, just look out for the normal stuff: is anything obviously wrong? Do all of the buttons and switches work? Any burned out lights? Are the fluids okay? Do all the tires match? Be careful, and hopefully it works out.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: ON
If you've had a Toyota, you've basically seen a Lexus. They're both made by the same parent company, and a Lexus is basically a Toyota, but made to an even higher standard.
That being said, there aren't many issues with these except for carbon deposits on the intake valves (the 250 is GDI only); it can be remedied, but it's not something I'd recommend to try unless you really know what you're doing.
Otherwise, just look out for the normal stuff: is anything obviously wrong? Do all of the buttons and switches work? Any burned out lights? Are the fluids okay? Do all the tires match? Be careful, and hopefully it works out.
That being said, there aren't many issues with these except for carbon deposits on the intake valves (the 250 is GDI only); it can be remedied, but it's not something I'd recommend to try unless you really know what you're doing.
Otherwise, just look out for the normal stuff: is anything obviously wrong? Do all of the buttons and switches work? Any burned out lights? Are the fluids okay? Do all the tires match? Be careful, and hopefully it works out.
yea man i went to see this car it was an hour away and guess what the dealer had sold the car and didnt bother telling me, when i got there he strated showing me a 09 with 187k km on it rusted trunk looked like garbage and he was selling it for the same price lol, I literally just got in my car and left without even telling him cause that was messed up, but i ended up buying a really clean 07 as i said above, the only thing am concerned about now is that the tranny fluid was changed at jiffylube lol at 165k km and now iam at 169k km so i was just wondering hopefully they put the correct fluid in lmao or am gone be out a tranny soon
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Pit Crew
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 104
Likes: 30
From: Ontario
Hmm. Well, the ONLY way to be absolutely sure would be to send a sample of the fluid to a lab. Or maybe call the place and ask what they used, but you would have to trust them.
I've got a manual gearbox in mine, so it's completely different. I've done changes on that, but I know that doing one on an auto box is much different. Haven't done a Lexus in particular, but I did my girlfriend's F150, and holy **** are Fords a PITA. If the Lexus has a drain plug, it's already miles ahead of the F150 in terms of ease of service. Not terribly difficult; if you can change your own engine oil and understand how to use a torque wrench, you can probably do a change yourself.
I've got a manual gearbox in mine, so it's completely different. I've done changes on that, but I know that doing one on an auto box is much different. Haven't done a Lexus in particular, but I did my girlfriend's F150, and holy **** are Fords a PITA. If the Lexus has a drain plug, it's already miles ahead of the F150 in terms of ease of service. Not terribly difficult; if you can change your own engine oil and understand how to use a torque wrench, you can probably do a change yourself.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
From: ON
yea am just gonna drive it for now till my next oil change in 6k km and get it changed then, yea it does have a drain bolt and all that. and yea i understand i had a 2011 gmc seirra 3rd gear started slipping at high rpm sold that POS soo quick lol
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