MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

Today I received a fuel filter that I ordered a few days ago.
​​​​Beck/Arnley from rockauto.com. Just wanted to share the pics of the fuel pump filter. It's a fairly easy procedure if you've done similar work. My 250 has 85K on the clock and it's been feeling a little sluggish these past few months. So I decided to change it. As you can see the photos below. The actual volume in size is very small. And it's completely black pretty much sludged up. It's almost just like the stuff you find on the transmission magnets.

After installing it and completely reassembled the module. I went, and filled up the tank. The car throttle feels so light again. Before the car felt very hesitant at higher speeds. Almost felt like it was having a hard time speeding up. Life time fuel filter? Maybe the life of the pump. I've seen people say they've got 150k or more before the pump goes out. I like to prolong it if I can. Also I typed this all on my Galaxy S8 +. So I'm sure there are typos.

If you decide to tackle this you should first watch some YouTube videos to get some ideas. Also the 2GS forums has a great write up on how to change the filters. It's similar except the components are different. I reused everything even the sock strainer. Just disassemble it from the pump, and clean it with carb cleaner. The springed shaft has to come off. So the E clip will need to be removed. Also posted here you can source components needed view diagram pic. I recommend you get the orings, and clips just in case you need them or break them. The sock micron strainer too unless you can clean it maybe. I did, but didn't have a choice so I just cleaned it. Total time I'D say 2-3 hours. Maybe more this is something you don't want to rush DIY'S.




Top of my head instructions. It was way to cold out side today. Just wanted to finish ASAP. ATTEMPT THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING. IF ANYTHING TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC SHOP TO GET DONE.

Here we go:
Pop back seat off, pump is on driver's side. Take out and store it.
Pry the wire grommet off the sheet metal plate of the fuel pump. So you don't pull the wiring by mistake.
Next pry the sheet metal plate protector. You'll have to use a flat head screwdriver to get it off. It has some sort of adhesive gasket. When done just mold it back in place to seal again.

At this point remove the the fuel pump connector, and start the car to realease pressure. Car dies on it's own in a few seconds. Pop the hood and disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Safety first don't want any power going to the electrical wires. You're working with fuel, and strong fuel fumes. I left my driver, and driver side rear doors open. To vent the fumes out.

Let's continue get some shop rags as fuel will still be in the lines. Wrap them around the fuel pump area. Next with a flat head screwdriver pop the fuel line, and return lines off. The yellow clips just pry off out in opposite direction in the openings. You'll understand once you see them. Pop the lines off, and cover them with shop rags. At this point I tucked them where they wouldn't interfere. Blot the excess fuel spilled.

Next remove the the (8) 8mm screws holding the pump to the tank. The pump is sort of spring loaded a little with the remaining fuel. So hold the metal oring down as you unscew the bolts. Think of buoyancy here.

Once removed lift up the pump, and slightly rotate it to clear the level float out. Be careful not to bend it. You'll still have the lower siphon hose to remove. Rest the assembly on the ledge of the opening as more fuel will still be dripping. Let it drip and with pliers remove the sipgon hose clamp. At this point wrap everything in shop rags to avoid spilling fuel everywhere in the interior.

The pump assembly is out, and place it where you will disassemble.
First reach in and disconnect the connections to the fuel pump, and level sensor. Then on the side of the module the black small ID hose, and unclip it. Leave it just dangling.

Next the E clip on the the springed rod side must be removed. This will allow access to remove the filter, and pressure regulator assembly. With the E clip remove the top part can be put aside. If bent for reuse you'll have to reform it with pliers to clip it back on, or as I mentioned before order the hardware from the diagram. If you think you'll need it.

Filter removal start by prying off the 3 tabs on the filter to separate it from the housing. The level sensor stays in place. As you lift the tabs lift up slightly so they don't re-engage. At this point start pulling the assembly apart. The fuel regulator is attached on the side. You have to start seperating it. simultaneously. There's a thin o-ring under where it inserts don't forget to transfer it. Next unclip the plastic tabs on the bottom of the fuel filter. There are two 0-rings at each side don't loose them. Keep in mind how everything is placed. Take pictures of everything as you go for reference. Take it apart until just the pump, and filter are together.

From the old filter transfer the o-rings to the the fuel line, and regulator assembly ports. Do not install them into the filter housing first, or set them aside just make sure you place them back according.

Removing the pump from the filter. This one is tricky. I got two medium flat head screwdrivers to place a wedge on the tabs, and pulled the pump out. Where the pump came out is a sleeve gasket. The new filter provided it for me I installed it new.

All is left is the pump, and micron sock strainer as I like to call it.

You can either buy a new one. I'd recommend it if you can get it, or clean it with carb cleaner untill it's completely somewhat white again. If you want to keep it together with the pump while cleaning. Spray the carb in a manner in which the contamination is not getting inside the pump port.

I decided to separate mine for this reason just in case. I'm OCD like that 😂. If you remove it. You must pry from the pump, and sock with a medium flat head screw driver. As it has a type of retaing type grip washer. Keep prying until it starts to lift in the middle post where the washer is located. Be careful it might fly off as it's under tension. If installing a new strainer buy the the washer. Again you can reuse it, but it has to be flattened out.

So there you have it hope you can assemble it all together. In reverse order. Place all the orings on the ports then snap in place. You want to here everything snap in place to prevent leaks around the o-rings.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES AS YOU GO.

I'M IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE IF SOMETHING GOES SOUTH.

AS WHEN INSTALLING THE COMPLETE MODULE BACK IN DONT PUT THE BACK SEAT IN YET. NOT EVEN THE METAL GAURDS JUST PLUG TO THE HARNESS TO THE PUMP. Hook up the battery again too.

You want to prime the pump a few times to pressurize the lines. Before you start. I did all this let it idle shut off twice. Then just let it idle looking for fuel smells around the gasket at the tank seal. After all is clear. I disconnected the pump and ran wiring back in place through the metal plate guard. Then secure it with the rubber grommet. Put seat back in.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

You get an idea of long term use of the fuel filter.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...er-change.html

​​​​​​https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...el-filter.html

SeanO

iTrader: (1)

Interesting.. I'm always looking for regular maintenance tasks to do on my 350 as I'm pretty religious about preventative maintenance. I follow the Lexus maintenance schedule for most of it, also confer with some of my friends that are mechanics. This wouldn't be something I do myself, but something that judging by the pictures you've posted, should be done during the lifetime of the vehicle.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

If we back up and think upstream a few levels, all it takes a one fuel up at a neglected station and your tank is full of sediment. Now add in all the methonal and the moisture it attracts and you have a combination saying there is a need to change the sock. The question is when!??
The need could happen any time. 100 to 150,xxx mi isn't unreasonable.

Thanks for the write up Mike.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

I'll definitely keep this in mind to do as a preventative maintenance item. Thanks for the write-up and pics!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

I think I just saw Exhibit A of one of the many ways all that s h i t gets in our fuel tank. As in how can this not end up in the station tanks???? It's going to happen when the whole truck is covered in sand and all the caps covered in sand, silt, dirt, debris....

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

As far as I can tell in my area in Houston, TX. I always see new tanker trucks filling up the local watering holes. I've yet to see one that dirty. Although we get tons of rain, and occasionally flooding. Who knows how bad the tanks are in the ground. I always tend to search for new construction gas stations. They are always popping up. That said like you mentioned it just takes one bad fill up, and the strainer, and filter would be plugged.