2GR-FSE Engine rebuild (2008 IS350)
05-29-19, 08:32 AM
#76
Read this with interest.
Hey 2013Fsport, where is this chain tensioner? Is there a way to test/check it or would you advise changing it on an 07 350 with 195K miles?
i rebuild airplane engines but don't really want to do this one.
Thanks,
Dan
Hey 2013Fsport, where is this chain tensioner? Is there a way to test/check it or would you advise changing it on an 07 350 with 195K miles?
i rebuild airplane engines but don't really want to do this one.
Thanks,
Dan
10-25-19, 06:38 AM
#77
If I recall I think if you take the alternator off as well you have enough room to take it off fairly easily. The tensioner is in such a cramped space that moving the A/C compressor isn't enough for ease of removal. I'm going to look back at some of the photos I took while dismantling my engine to get it out of the car and see if theres a good picture of the area you're in.
It's really easy to get the tensioner off if you pull the engine out. Lol
It's really easy to get the tensioner off if you pull the engine out. Lol
10-25-19, 11:08 AM
#78
Driver School Candidate
10-25-19, 12:22 PM
#79
Fantastic! Thanks for the info. Was snooping under the hood yesterday and saw the rectangular box, glad to know that's the ecu. I'm gonna give this a go today.
10-25-19, 01:12 PM
#80
Driver School Candidate
It's really easy to do, cam chain never skips teeth if you have the Front engine Cover and the valve Covers still on. But why are you taking it apart? I am curious.
10-25-19, 06:07 PM
#81
Took your advice, super easy indeed. Everything I've read pointed to possibly a bad tensioner. I can hear a slight knock on start up and at idle. The RPM fluctuate a bit as well. While driving, between 35-65mph, I can hear a whirling noise. First I thought it was wheel bearing, but it also made the same noise when I revved in park between 2500-3000 RPM. Belt seems to be in pretty good condition. Only thing left is to inspect alternator and the rest of the pulleys i guess. Thanks again for the advice.
10-26-19, 03:28 PM
#82
Hey stilkus, since you were spot on with the primary tensioner, can you get to the two secondary tensioner without having to open up the motor? I'm just curious. Didnt see anything when I was snooping around, but I dont know what I was looking.
10-27-19, 12:11 AM
#83
Driver School Candidate
It could be also a chain, however, to inspect the upper chain tensioners, you have to remove the intake manifold, lots of screws, take care there's a hidden 14mm head screw behind the manifold on your right. When taking the Covers off you'll need to remove the HP Benzin pump first for the left side, the it all happens straight forward after that. Takes a lot of time though, I have done this Job 3 times trying to figure out which cam dephaser is Bad and it takes me 6 hours for both covers, so take your time. Don't forget to Check the oil strainers/Filters for the high pressure oil lines on the Front sides of the covers. You can remove the camshafts and the chains, it doesn't skip if you do it one Cover at a time, don't forget to align tdc and you'll see the Marks when the Cover is removed. When assembling, make sure you install both Rubber o-rings which are found between the head and the covers cause this could drop your oil pressure if forgotten. My engine has 260TKm and still running the original chain. There's an instructional Video from Toyota/lexus on Youtube clearly describing everything, just search "2gr-fse valve seal" on Youtube.
10-27-19, 07:17 AM
#84
I would advise you to remove the valve Covers and take a Look there as well. Usually the cam dephasers (vvti) make this start knock, I would inspect them as well as they cost me an engine rebuild when one of them got loose screws because of the repeated knocks and the oil pressure dropped so the engine went out.
It could be also a chain, however, to inspect the upper chain tensioners, you have to remove the intake manifold, lots of screws, take care there's a hidden 14mm head screw behind the manifold on your right. When taking the Covers off you'll need to remove the HP Benzin pump first for the left side, the it all happens straight forward after that. Takes a lot of time though, I have done this Job 3 times trying to figure out which cam dephaser is Bad and it takes me 6 hours for both covers, so take your time. Don't forget to Check the oil strainers/Filters for the high pressure oil lines on the Front sides of the covers. You can remove the camshafts and the chains, it doesn't skip if you do it one Cover at a time, don't forget to align tdc and you'll see the Marks when the Cover is removed. When assembling, make sure you install both Rubber o-rings which are found between the head and the covers cause this could drop your oil pressure if forgotten. My engine has 260TKm and still running the original chain. There's an instructional Video from Toyota/lexus on Youtube clearly describing everything, just search "2gr-fse valve seal" on Youtube.
It could be also a chain, however, to inspect the upper chain tensioners, you have to remove the intake manifold, lots of screws, take care there's a hidden 14mm head screw behind the manifold on your right. When taking the Covers off you'll need to remove the HP Benzin pump first for the left side, the it all happens straight forward after that. Takes a lot of time though, I have done this Job 3 times trying to figure out which cam dephaser is Bad and it takes me 6 hours for both covers, so take your time. Don't forget to Check the oil strainers/Filters for the high pressure oil lines on the Front sides of the covers. You can remove the camshafts and the chains, it doesn't skip if you do it one Cover at a time, don't forget to align tdc and you'll see the Marks when the Cover is removed. When assembling, make sure you install both Rubber o-rings which are found between the head and the covers cause this could drop your oil pressure if forgotten. My engine has 260TKm and still running the original chain. There's an instructional Video from Toyota/lexus on Youtube clearly describing everything, just search "2gr-fse valve seal" on Youtube.
10-27-19, 01:37 PM
#86
Thanks for the tip. Definitely doing that before I get myself in the weeds.
07-10-20, 10:11 AM
#87
Driver School Candidate
Where did you end up ordering your parts from? I am about to jump into a refresh on a 2GR-FSE.
Did you grab the service manual from the TIS website or did you find a better source?
Thanks for posting your rebuild.
Did you grab the service manual from the TIS website or did you find a better source?
Thanks for posting your rebuild.
07-10-20, 12:06 PM
#88
You could get a quote through the various suppliers starting with Lexus Toyota.
Then turn to sources at your local machine shop.
Abstract and unrelated... these guys bored and stroked a 3.5L, dropping the CR to 9:1 and applied 22psi of boost!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/4L_2GR-FSE_Engine.html
Then turn to sources at your local machine shop.
Abstract and unrelated... these guys bored and stroked a 3.5L, dropping the CR to 9:1 and applied 22psi of boost!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/4L_2GR-FSE_Engine.html
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Bartfriend (07-10-20)
07-10-20, 03:58 PM
#89
Driver School Candidate
i was going to go with all OEM but realized the valve stem seals were just over $7 each... I ended up at rock auto..
500HP at the wheels!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html
500HP at the wheels!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html
07-11-20, 01:56 PM
#90
i was going to go with all OEM but realized the valve stem seals were just over $7 each... I ended up at rock auto..
500HP at the wheels!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html
500HP at the wheels!
http://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html
Link - I missed that. Thats pretty awesome though! Too bad they didn't use the DI... the head is designed for it!
Last edited by 2013FSport; 07-11-20 at 02:20 PM.