Its a push start so there's no key but I tried putting it into the on or acc mode and waiting for it to prime before starting but it did not help.

 

I read your other post. You got codes:
Current Code - B2784 Antenna Coil Open/Short
Historic Code - B2799 Engine Immobiliser System

That's your issue.

Check this link:
See if your fuse is not blown first. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/692433-diy-fusible-link-removal.html

I did some digging online. Check for any fuses blown especially IGN fuse.

Check the actual push start for issues.

Lastly the guy had a fault key fob. So the switch was good.

Hope I could help some point you in a different direction.

 

I'll check the fusable link as well once I get home but I don't know if that could be the cause. I still have power in the car(radio and everything works) and the starter does engage and turn the engine.

If my key fob wasn't recognized I don't think the light on the start button would turn green.

If one of the IGN fuses were blown would that mean there's no spark? It could be the engine is turning but there's no spark so its not firing up.

 

Got it to start. Thanks for all your help Mike.

So I dropped by the store and grabbed the quickstart, MAF cleaner and electrical connection cleaner but did not end up needed any of it.

With the fuel pressure sensor still unplugged I floored the gas pedal at pressed the start button it took two tries to get it to start.I then got the PO193 code for the fuel pressure sensor. I plugged it back in and restarted the car. I then cleared the codes. I started the car a couple times and drove around for a bit and have no codes.

I don't know if the fuel pressure sensor was faulty at all or if the car was just flooded the entire time. Maybe the fuel pressure sensor being faulty is causing the engine to become flooded.

I still have the engine knock noise to deal with but at least the car starts now. Engine Knock Thread

TL: DR
Engine was flooded. Car started after flooring the gas pedal.

 

So again the car won't start.

Friday morning the car struggled to start, it sputtered but eventually fired up on the first push of the button. After work the car didn't start. The fuel was just around last quarter. The light was not on yet. I unplugged the fuel pressure sensor again and floored the pedal and tried to start it a couple times. It did not work. So I walked over to the gas station and got 5 litres of fuel. I thought maybe the fuel pump was clogged or not picking up fuel. So I put in the gas and smacked the tank from underneath and shook the car hoping to dislodge the clog.

I tried a couple more times and it did not make a difference I then plugged to fuel pressure sensor back in and tried to start it again, I then heard signs of life, it sputtrted but did not start. It took about 5 more attempts with sputtering and then it finallay started. I drove to the gas station and filled up it restarted fine.

Then I drove the car over the weekend when I first started the car after being parked for a couple of hours it sputtered at first but would start on the first press of the button.

This morning when i went to start the car it did not sputter or start. This time the tank is 3/4 full.

Does this sound like a bad fuel pump or something else?

 

I'm leaning with maybe bad starter contacts.

 

Sounds like it still cranks, so I would think not.

What if it had water in the fuel? It could explain the random starts, runs dies.

If you have an OBD adapter and torque Pro ($5.00 USD) app, you can read the fuel pressure. You have an android phone?

Grab an ELM bluetooth OBDII reader ($20 USD) from ebay.

Long journey but getting closer. So, any rumors of stores pumping h2o up there vs Fuel??

 

Yes it still cranks quite well. So its not a bad battery connection or bad starter.

I'll hookup the techstream again and see what codes I get or if I can capture the fuel pressure. I'm not sure if it'll show a reading on just cranking.

I'm going to try cleaning the MAF and then try starter fluid and see what results I get.

 

I checked with techstream and there were no codes. I cleaned the MAF sensor but that didn't seem to help.

I used some starter fluid and it worked. I drove it around and parked it for now. I think it might be a bad fuel pump. So I'm going to order one and swap it out.

 

I would verify pressure from tank pump first, then inspect cold start injector on the intake manifold. Its there to prime the engine for cold starts.

Its like a port injector so the ECM should know if its unplugged but it may not know if its unable to mist fuel.

One option is to pull the injector, wrap a heavy rag around it and try to start the engine. Now see if the rag has fuel in it.

MIND YOU, YOU MUST plug the hole in the manifold. If the engine does start it could (although unlikely) rev out of control. Be safe and be smart dealing with atomized fuel. Its highly combustible!

 

I changed the pump out today. It started fine once the pump was replaced but the real test will be over the next couple days on cold starts and restarts during the day.

The engine was also not knocking during my test drive. So don't know if that will come back or if I solved 2 problems.

 

Did you swap out the fuel filter too? How many miles on your car?

 

My car is at 170K miles. I purchased the fuel pump that includes the filter housing as well.

I got quotes of up to $2000 CDN for the fuel pump. I then found one on rockauto for $232 CDN

It's possible I only needed to change the filter. When I drained out the excess fuel from the old pump there was a lot of gunk in it. If I get the chance I'll take apart the old one and inspect it.

The car has been starting fine over the past couple days and the the engine knock has not returned yet.

 

Sounds good. It looks like you resolved your problem.

 

Wonder if the knock was from running lean from being starved of fuel???
Where do you buy your fuel? You might want to go elsewhere!