Battery & Alternator FAILED — ideas?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Battery & Alternator FAILED — ideas?
Hey folks.
Just picked up a new Lexus few weeks back. One night had it playing music with engine off for about an hour and then it would not start. No problem, jump started and I was off. Though I did notice a CEL light up, but it was gone the day after I started my car for the second time after jump start. So we're clear.
Few days back, I take it to AutoZone for a free electrical scan. The machine says the battery has failed. After running the alternator test next, says voltage regulator has failed (granted the diodes are good).
I tested two different locations across multiple days with same results.
Could it be just a new battery that's needed? It still has the Panasonic battery which I believe may be an oem from 2010 (though not sure on that one).
Before I drop in a new battery (and void my return), would love to get some input from y'all. Could it be just a battery issue, or is this indeed a alternator issue also?
It just so happens that I had to replace an alternator on another Lexus (RX350) recently...is this a common theme with Lexus'?
Any tips?
Thanks in advance,
Slavik
Just picked up a new Lexus few weeks back. One night had it playing music with engine off for about an hour and then it would not start. No problem, jump started and I was off. Though I did notice a CEL light up, but it was gone the day after I started my car for the second time after jump start. So we're clear.
Few days back, I take it to AutoZone for a free electrical scan. The machine says the battery has failed. After running the alternator test next, says voltage regulator has failed (granted the diodes are good).
I tested two different locations across multiple days with same results.
Could it be just a new battery that's needed? It still has the Panasonic battery which I believe may be an oem from 2010 (though not sure on that one).
Before I drop in a new battery (and void my return), would love to get some input from y'all. Could it be just a battery issue, or is this indeed a alternator issue also?
It just so happens that I had to replace an alternator on another Lexus (RX350) recently...is this a common theme with Lexus'?
Any tips?
Thanks in advance,
Slavik
#2
Driver School Candidate
I had no signs/symptoms like yours but I did not wait for those. I had alternator test and reading was not right. Being at 165k miles and reading here with IS alternator issues around 120k, I just had it replaced last year by mechanic. Bought alternator at oreillys and all good. I did not have to worry about alternator issue.
#4
Driver School Candidate
#6
Driver School Candidate
Batteries only last for 18 mo to 2 years here in AZ. Just replaced the battery on my ES330 last month. Sam's club sells Eveready batteries and replace them forever
#7
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
1st steep is battery. If upon install and running with say nothing but the headlights on, your voltage at the battery better be >13.4 volts. If not, its likely the alternator died also. But you said the diodes tested good so be warned that if the voltage is >14.6v it will kill your battery by over charging it.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
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#9
Lexus Champion
1st steep is battery. If upon install and running with say nothing but the headlights on, your voltage at the battery better be >13.4 volts. If not, its likely the alternator died also. But you said the diodes tested good so be warned that if the voltage is >14.6v it will kill your battery by over charging it.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Few here are going to yank an alternator, replace the diodes and/or regulator and hope that fixes it. That said the electronics are the weakest link and when an alternator hits the shelf as a remanufactured component, its lucky to get bearings, a sprague clutch, as many simply replace what has failed and maybe turn the commutator and throw new brushes at it.
What is sad is the 1990's camry's would go 300,000 mi on an OEM alternator... WTF Yoda????
What is sad is the 1990's camry's would go 300,000 mi on an OEM alternator... WTF Yoda????
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
1st steep is battery. If upon install and running with say nothing but the headlights on, your voltage at the battery better be >13.4 volts. If not, its likely the alternator died also. But you said the diodes tested good so be warned that if the voltage is >14.6v it will kill your battery by over charging it.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
Also rev engine to 2500 rpm and monitor voltage. Never should it go over 14.6v.
Few here are going to yank an alternator, replace the diodes and/or regulator and hope that fixes it. That said the electronics are the weakest link and when an alternator hits the shelf as a remanufactured component, its lucky to get bearings, a sprague clutch, as many simply replace what has failed and maybe turn the commutator and throw new brushes at it.
What is sad is the 1990's camry's would go 300,000 mi on an OEM alternator... WTF Yoda????
What is sad is the 1990's camry's would go 300,000 mi on an OEM alternator... WTF Yoda????
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