Bserrano

So I recently bought a 2008 IS250 rwd and for the first month I had no issues with it. Now all of sudden I'm having issues. So it started when I was stopped at a stop light and when I was going the engine died but everything stayed on. I tried to start the engine again and it wouldn't even crank. So I rolled the car back and parked it. I tried to start the car again and it fired up like nothing was wrong and it drove all day with no issues. Last morning, I was leaving to go to work so when I started the car it fired up like normal but after a minute or two the engine shut off again. I turned it off and tried to start it again but it won't even crank, everything turns on, nav still works but now I have a check vsc. I turned the car off and left it for an hour. I started the car again and it fired up but immediately shut off and when I tried to start it again, it won't crank and I have the check vsc message again. I tried to jump start it and still nothing. Everything still lights up but the engine will not even try to crank. First time owning a Lexus and im so frustrated with having this issue already.

jr4div2

You need to pull the code to see what sensor is telling the car to shut down. There are a lot of things in these cars that can cause what you are seeing. If you don't have an OBDII tool, go to you local Autozone/Advance/Chief/whatever store and they can read the codes for free. Once you have that, people here can help you solve the problem.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like an electrical charging issue. I'd suspect perhaps both a bad battery and bad alternator in this case. Perhaps take a look at the terminals on your battery and look for white, powdery build-up OR check to see that both cables are tight to the battery terminates. Members have also mentioned having issues with the factory ground wire leading to the battery.

Bserrano

Update,
So I checked the terminals on the battery and the ground cable and have cleaned and tighten them up and that didn't work, so I left the car alone for a week for vacation and when I came back I started the car. It fired up and stayed on with normal idle. It wasn't until I pressed the gas pedal the car shut off again and will no longer start afterwards. Could it be a fuel pump? I would of taken the car to AutoZone to read the code but can't due to the car not wanting to drive.

markjustus

Bro, it's your brake pedal stiff? This happened to me when my alternator went out. You can test your battery first, but alternator would be my guess.

HenryGee

Any updates? Same thing happening to me

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

How about ruling out the fuel pressure sensor? Rare, but it's happened to a few people (including myself on my 350). It's on the back of the engine, you can reach back there and unplug the harness. If the car cranks and runs after that, the sensor needs to be replaced. See this post if you want to know where exactly it is, you shouldn't need to remove the intake manifold: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post9759981

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pressure and/vacuum leak/Dirty or Damaged MAF.

Because you tap on the gas and it dies, that could be MAF or low fuel pressure.

The No crank issue, there is not enough info here to solve that. Unless green light for keyless start never came on after repeated attempts to start engine.

Buy a can MAF cleaner and hose that thing down. It may help. Was the CEL on the last time it ran?

Tumuch27

I'm having the same issue with my 08 GS 350. She stalled out on me on the highway with the CEL, Check VSC all the bells and lights previous posters stated. I got her towed home and checked the code and It was P1235. I cleared the code and the car drove fine for a day or two until it stalled on my wife pulling into our driveway. Checked and it was the same code again-P1235. After checking the forum I figured it was the Fuel pressure sensor as this appears to be common.

I was able to find the FPS on eBay for $21 (part number 89458-30010). Once it arrived, I installed it and also replaced the battery. Turned her over and she started right up. After not too long the code P1235 returned. I cleared the code and it kept returning and the car kept stalling. I unplugged the new FPS and got code P0193 for the fuel rail pressure sensor circuit. I am baffled at this point as she was running fine prior to this. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

There is the chance that used and even new parts are defective. I would recheck your work and look for bent pins, corrosion, discoloration of the mating pins, breaks or cracks in the wires, pins (male or female) being pushed or recessed in the socket.

This is a stretch but you might want to verify these wires to the ECU meet all of the criteria above too. Obviously disconnect the battery before pulling the ecu and then verify continuity between FPS connector and ECU connector based upon wire colors. Perhaps log on to TIS and get the ECU pinout for your vehicle and read up on troubleshooting this problem.

I know this is unlikely to help but have you have ran any fuel system cleaners through this engine?

Tumuch27

I appreciate your reply my Friend. Today is a nice day here in the DMV and 'Im going to give it another try. This time a have the actual Toyota part #89458-30011. I will keep you posted. Thanks again!

Tumuch27

So I took your advice and did some back tracking. First, I installed my new Toyota FPS Part #89458-3001. Once installed the car would turn over and die after a couple minutes. I was getting the same code( P1235) every time. I would erase the code with my scan tool and it would come right back in seconds. I was almost convinced it was not my fuel pump as the car would still start. I reviewed other posts with the same issue and came across one from 2015 by Irfan1994 on the IS forum. His post stated the Lexus dealer completed the following:

"PERFORMED DTC INSPECTION, FOUND DTCS P1235, P0200
PERFORMED VOLTAGE & OHM TESTS
FOUND LOOSE CONNECTION AT DIRECT FUEL INJECTION DRIVER
SECURED CONNECTION, CLEARED DTCS & ROAD TESTED."

I went and unbuttoned the front of the vehicle to take a look at the Direct Fuel Injector driver. I noticed the driver was a bit loose as I had replaced the water pump back in Dec 16'. I removed the Direct fuel injection driver from its place on the block while leaving its connectors intact. I found the ground connections and cleaned its bolts and connector rings with a wire brush (one right above the driver and one on the block). I buttoned everything back up and figured if this is not it I'd have to get her over to the dealer.

The car fired right up and the code (P1235) came back on. I cleared the code and waited for it to return in seconds like it had previously but it didn't. I waited another minute or so and no CEL and she kept running. Happy and a bit apprehensive I tapped the gas and watched the RPM's rise in amazement.

I then test drove her in our development and she purred like her old self. My baby is back from the dead after three weeks!

So after all that, it was a DAMN ground wire and connection that had become corroded. Thanks to this forum I have successfully maintained my DIY status. I appreciate you Guys immensely. Cheers!

jr4div2

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Good Job!
As time permits I would grab and apply some electrical dialectic grease to the pins and contacts of that assembly. It will protect it from moisture and corrosion. It WILL NOT stop existing corrosion but it will reduce the chances of it starting. BE CERTAIN to grab the non-conductive kind. Read the label carefully.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Adding in Check the connections to the Fuel Injector Drivers too!