m2bad4ya

Have not heard back from the mechanic, at this point I want to take my car to a Lexus dealer or reputable transmission shop, have them fix it, and sue my current mechanic for the repair bill.

m2bad4ya

QUICK UPDATE

Going to work on the car today, the weather has made it impossible to put in work. But I have A THEORY on how the car trans go the way it is now.
I don't think it happened while he was driving. I think it happened when the car was off, after it was parked and the trans was in neutral. Then when he shut the car off he tried to lock the gears by putting it in first without pushing down on the clutch and was probably too quick and jammed it. It would kind of fit the story of the other guy who had the same problem as me. Would this make sense? Well once I do find the actual source of the problem I will post up what it is.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

I've had many apart tho not this model and when they use external lockouts, thats where it gets tricky as the trans internally is held by rail interlocks on the shift forks.


The handle has a lockout for rewind. The trans interanlly has lockouts on the shift forks but they only stop (try to prevent) double gear selection.

Drop the rear trans cross member and get access by letting the trans settle. The undo the pinch bolt and see if the trans itself can be pulled out of first.

With the lever free of the trans get it into neutral too.

Hopefully putting them both in N at the same time allows full gear selection again.

That said, often times this fault lies internally with the interlocks on the shift rails and a tear down is required to free the interlock. What sucks is good none-worn parts can do this in the hands of the wrong person. Thus meaning nee parts don't prevent it from happening again and ya, it can be repeated.

Just lower the tail and get the linkage undone from the trans and hopefully you're good to go.

m2bad4ya

**UPDATE**

Had my new mechanic take apart my trans, he said that synchros 1 and 2 were stuck. I'm not sure exactly what this means (I'm not a transmission guy) but it was bad enough that it just couldn't be "unstuck" and required new parts to rebuild. Toyota wanted to charge me around $2000 for the parts alone, and that wouldn't have included labor. Is there anyone that can explain how the two synchros could be stuck and if the shifter position being in R caused the synchros to get stuck, or did the synchros getting stuck cause the shifter to be in the R position?

So what I ended up doing was buying a used transmission (not an easy task for these cars) and found a 2010 trans with approximately 110K for $950 shipped to the mechanics shop, so I saved more than half over buying the parts needed to rebuild my trans, and also being an 09+ trans I hope that it will provide me with reliability.

**FOLLOW UP QUESTION**

This has to do with the position of the shifter on my new RA62 trans. The new trans didn't come with the shifter which isn't a big deal since I used the one already on my car. But the position of the shifter is higher up than it was before, it's not in the middle of the console. So for example, where R-1-3-5 was positioned before is now N. Where Neutral was before is now 2-4-6. When I use the upper patterned gears I sometimes smack my knuckles against the radio/clock in the center of the dash and it stretches the shifter boot a bit.

Is this adjustable, to position the shifter like I had it before? Or do I need a 2010 shifter to go with the 2010 trans so it is in the middle of my console? Otherwise the shifting itself is fine, no issues with getting into gears, it's just not centered with the console like it was before.

**IN CONCLUSION**

I can get pics up of the shifter position as it is now to show you what I'm talking about. I can also take pics of the old trans and maybe someone can tell me how it might have gotten mess up in the first place.

One solution I thought about if I'm not able to reposition the shifter is using a short throw shifter off an FRS/BRZ/86. I know for a fact that it will hook up to the trans. The difference between the shifters for those cars and the IS250 is that the IS250 shifter is 180º straight while the FRS/BRZ/86 shifter has a bend in it that may compensate for the position it is in right now.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Its pretty hard to stick a brass synchronizer on a gear unless the synchro is super worn out. Even then I think the only way that happens is with the engine off and you slam it hard.

Pull up a youtube vid I'm sure there are a million explaining how mt works. In short these are a constant mesh trans with all gears on the input and output shaft spinning at different rates when moving. The brass synchro is like a line brake that with pressure applied helps that gear match the shaft speed so its clutch dogs can engage locking the gear to the shaft. The synchro inside is cone shaped and once the clutch dogs engage power is transmitted from the gear to the shaft its on and the synchro is no longer doing any work.

It seems like the body shop abused it. Good luck getting some repair cost back from them.