Does a flush stops An engine from burning oil?
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Muscat
Does a flush stops An engine from burning oil?
So, I've had my 2007 IS 300 for almost two years now and since I bought, it was burning oil. And I went to a lot of mechanics telling me the same answer, that the piston rings or valve seals were worn out. And I didn't bother even goin to the dealership because they won't do anything for free and if they saw my car, they would drain me. About one month ago, I couldn't read my oil level. The first thing I did was to go and buy a new oil dipstick ( It was the cheapest solution) but it wasn't the problem. Then the second thing I did was a flush. It solved the problem and another issue for me ( The burning oil issue). I used to drive for only 700 km and it always burned half a liter and I added oil everytime it burns oil (that's what the mechanics told me to do). But now, it still reads at full. Ive driven it now for 3000 km and it didn't burn anything. Before I did the flush, if I didn't add oil every like 3000 km it would show me the "low oil consumption".
Driver
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From: Nc
Driver
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 135
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From: New South Wales
Just be careful with "Engine Flush" treatments, if your car has high mileage and has been burning a lot of oil it can have solid oil deposits and buildup inside. When you use a flush treatment it can cause these deposits to flake off and they can block pickups and valleys causing oil flow problems which lead to engine damage or failure. It can also cause leaks by removing deposits from seals where they are actually preventing a leak.
I have used them in the past and not had a problem, I know people who have used them and damaged their engines. It is obviously up to the individual whether they run the risk or not, just make sure you do your research first, a lot of the flush products won't tell you they can be harmful.
I have used them in the past and not had a problem, I know people who have used them and damaged their engines. It is obviously up to the individual whether they run the risk or not, just make sure you do your research first, a lot of the flush products won't tell you they can be harmful.
Just be careful with "Engine Flush" treatments, if your car has high mileage and has been burning a lot of oil it can have solid oil deposits and buildup inside. When you use a flush treatment it can cause these deposits to flake off and they can block pickups and valleys causing oil flow problems which lead to engine damage or failure. It can also cause leaks by removing deposits from seals where they are actually preventing a leak.
I have used them in the past and not had a problem, I know people who have used them and damaged their engines. It is obviously up to the individual whether they run the risk or not, just make sure you do your research first, a lot of the flush products won't tell you they can be harmful.
I have used them in the past and not had a problem, I know people who have used them and damaged their engines. It is obviously up to the individual whether they run the risk or not, just make sure you do your research first, a lot of the flush products won't tell you they can be harmful.
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Driver
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 135
Likes: 16
From: New South Wales
I am guessing he is talking about a flush from a oil change place and I would highly recommend it. they drain the oil then fill it again run it to temperature then drain it again then fill and check for any gunk draining as they start the fill (by leaving the drain open, if all is clean they top it off.
If he has done a regular oil change, the real question is if he changed to/from a semi synthetic/fully synthetic/mineral oil, and if he changed oil viscosity. A higher mileage engine that burns oil and leaks will usually benefit from a thicker oil (operating environment considered) as it is less likely to work its way past the spaces a thinner oil will, and it's harder to burn.
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Muscat
That is just a regular oil change procedure with an extra fill and drain, but may be what he meant. If an engine hasn't had its oil changed in a while, or I buy a used car that has had a hard life, I will usually drain the oil, fill the engine again with a cheaper non synthetic oil, warm it up and drain it again, pour whats left in the bottle through the engine with the sump plug out to see if it comes out clean (it almost always does) then fill it with my preferred premium oil.
If he has done a regular oil change, the real question is if he changed to/from a semi synthetic/fully synthetic/mineral oil, and if he changed oil viscosity. A higher mileage engine that burns oil and leaks will usually benefit from a thicker oil (operating environment considered) as it is less likely to work its way past the spaces a thinner oil will, and it's harder to burn.
If he has done a regular oil change, the real question is if he changed to/from a semi synthetic/fully synthetic/mineral oil, and if he changed oil viscosity. A higher mileage engine that burns oil and leaks will usually benefit from a thicker oil (operating environment considered) as it is less likely to work its way past the spaces a thinner oil will, and it's harder to burn.
Last edited by Klymbort; May 31, 2017 at 03:18 AM.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
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From: Muscat
Pole Position
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: MS
Shouldn't be happeing
1) Check/change PCV
2) Check/change plugs
3) Switch to high mileage syn oil. Valvoline Maxlife is the gold standard on BITOG
4) I'd pay to get an UOA and make sure there's no coolant in your oil or anything else.
2) Check/change plugs
3) Switch to high mileage syn oil. Valvoline Maxlife is the gold standard on BITOG
4) I'd pay to get an UOA and make sure there's no coolant in your oil or anything else.
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Joined: May 2016
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From: New York
Most PCVs changed were working. There are 2 major functions:
1. high vacuum (idle, cruise) means limited (5-8 CFM) extra air admitted to the manifold by the spring-loaded restrictor cone. If this stops (stuck shut by deposits), the idle speed goes down but generally the IAC will compensate - you may not even notice.
2. low vacuum (open throttle) allows manifold vacuum through the unrestricted PCV opening to remove oil vapor. If it's plugged the engine will burn less oil because the vapor in the crankcase doesn't reach the combustion chamber through the intake manifold (only passing the rings and guides).
Another example of "you see what you expect to see".
1. high vacuum (idle, cruise) means limited (5-8 CFM) extra air admitted to the manifold by the spring-loaded restrictor cone. If this stops (stuck shut by deposits), the idle speed goes down but generally the IAC will compensate - you may not even notice.
2. low vacuum (open throttle) allows manifold vacuum through the unrestricted PCV opening to remove oil vapor. If it's plugged the engine will burn less oil because the vapor in the crankcase doesn't reach the combustion chamber through the intake manifold (only passing the rings and guides).
Another example of "you see what you expect to see".