Not sure if this one goes here.

Yes i have done research on this particular subject.

So i ran seafoam through the break booster line (The Vacuum) one and got a little smoke but after completing and letting it sit and then driving my Check VSC lights and Traction control lights have come on, Did i do something particularly wrong when i did it.

The steps i did is as follows:

1. Add sea foam to full gas tank.
2. added seafoam to oil (No lights at this point because i use the car that night after putting it in.)
3. Next morning I ran the seafoam through the break booster and now lights are on and haven't went off.

Is it possible that i need to drive it a little bit longer to finish running the seafoam out of the engine completely?

 

After a quick google search some things came up...
did you attach the brake booster line back properly?
tried resetting the ecu and clearing the codes? Apparently check engine lights come on for some misfires
maybe a clogged cat

 

Sometimes when you seafoam a car you cause it to missfire or throw off the o2 sensor. The seafoam itself wont hurt anything, just drive the car a little harder than usual until it quits smoking and reset the faults.

 

I will try resetting everything this morning and seeing if that helps. I read somewhere fairly recently that the lights that are on will go off.
Is their a way i can check if my cats are clogged? I will use my diagnostic tool and check the codes and return back with that information.

I have been driving the car harder than usual redlining it pushing it.

 

Just hooked my machine up to the lexus,
After running the seafoam through the breakbooster line I cause a cylinder 5 spark plug misfire

 

and this is why im scared to run seafoam...always pros and cons

 

It isn't bad you always have to understand that when you run seafoam through your engine that depending on how much carbon buildup you have you can foul plugs, which isn't a bad thing at all to be honest. I purchased all six spark plugs from ebay which are denso iridium plugs for $64 with free shipping. I can say this though per my experience; when changing spark plugs be sure to check all allen head bolts to see if any of them are slightly rounded or completely rounded. When i went to change my spark plugs the previous owner stripped the middle allen head bolt which has prevented me from doing the spark plugs on the driver side. I did the passenger side in like 30 minutes and would have completed the spark plug change altogether in an hour but that allen head bolt prevented me from doing so. So my remedy for my issue is I am taking my car down to my mechanic who has worked on all kinds of vehicles of all different manufactures to get the bolt out for me.

 

Man just go buy some of these ...

They work really well would save you some money.. I guarantee that that's exactly what they are going to do.

 

I created a how-to video just for this. I did not have any check engine lights or problems.

 

With the way the intake manifold is designed, that method of seafoaming (through the brake booster vacuum port) cannot guarantee that the stuff will get to every cylinder / valve. I would HIGHLY recommend after doing it that you pull the intake manifold and give the valves for each cyl a good spray down so that any carbon coking on the intake valves can be removed.

Also, install two catch cans. One between the driver's side PCV and the intake manifold, and one between the passenger's side PCV and the intake pipe.

 

I know the information is floating around the forums, but for the sake of this post.

What is the recommended soaking agent for the valves? I've seen Seafoam, BG products and AC Delco X66P.

Thanks!

 

I regularly use Seafoam, however just through the gas. I am too chicken to use it any other area, like the vacuum and the oil.

 

Using it through the gas tank is a good idea, but won't do anything to clean the pre-valve gunk. When you take your intake manifold off for a spark plug change, spray some down on the valves.