Alternator died and brought the battery down with it to the point that the car would not run. Jumped it off to get it home and the above mentioned lights came on while driving (maybe two blocks). Changed alternator, warning lights were still there. Disconnected battery for a while (a few hours) to try and reset the everything. It didn't work and the car is throwing a P0348 code and it will not let me erase it with my code scanner. There are no other codes present. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Did you also purchase a new battery? A bad alternator can cause the battery to go bad. Worth getting it tested out.

 

I didn't get a new battery. The old one is holding a charge and has been starting the car normally for the past week or so.

 

Check the battery while the engine is running with a volt meter to make sure that the alternator is operating properly. Should be in the neighborhood of 13.5v to 14v ish. Wouldnt be the 1st time someone put in a new alternator and it didnt work.

 

Thanks guys. I'll check it out and report back.

 

Hmm. 14.25 at the battery running and 12.92 off so I think alt and batt are good, right?

 

Yes, thats where it should be so at least you eliminated that.

 

Do you have Torque Pro or a scanner to clear the codes manually?

 

Unfortunately I have a cheap Innova 3020 (cheap) scanner. It does have the ability to erase codes, however it is not erasing these. It appears to do so however CEL and others come back on.

I have been reading up on zero point calibration, wondering if that will help?

 

I HAD a cheap scanner too and it was acting up as well so I bought a new, current model for $100. It links up to the vin after plugging into the obd port and tells you what type of vehicle you are working on. This new scanner will tell me which oxygen sensor is bad where the old 1 would just tell you that 1 of the 2 was bad.

 

Thanks Ryan, good to know. I actually am borrowing the scanner from a friend however will purchase a better on when the opportunity comes up.

 

I have access to a very expensive Snap On Scan tool ($8k) (friends Garage) but Torque Pro on my tablet for $5 and a $20 OBDII reader off of Amazon is incredibly powerful and all I have ever needed. Displays live data, clears codes, just an amazing piece of software available on the Android Playstore or Apple Store. I would encourage everyone to get one.

This is the OBDII Reader I have and it has worked flawlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just plug it in and connect via bluetooth through your mobile or tablet using TorquePro.

A lot of folks like the Actron also. They say it will do what a $2k scanner can do.

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9580A-Enhanced-AutoScanner-Plus/dp/B008ZDYLC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482800048&sr=8-3&keywords=actron+cp9680

Just a search P0348 says it could be camshaft position sensor? have you tested it?

P0348 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input (Bank 2)

 

Thats funny, that is the scanner I bought!

 

Thanks for the links. Would probably really help this situation if I had a better scanner!

Regarding the code, I did look it up however I suspect that this issue is related to the battery being drained to the point that it could no longer power the car rather than the actual cam sensor. I did, however check them to make sure there was a good connection. All of the lights came on during the two block drive home at LOW battery voltage. I don't know (obviously) but am going to try and do a zero point calibration to see if it will help.

I did some more searching for the issue, specifically "VSC Trac CEL" and came up with the following. This particular example the OP described in his situation matches mine as well.
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28023

 

your not the first one to have this problem to post here. But this was the only guy who at least commented on how it was fixed. It is really sh1tty that folks come here looking for help and then never post what the fix was or the problem.

Here was what he said.

Well I had a similar issue. I changed to a new battery, VSC comes on when I put into gear and car moves a few inches. I tried the Zero calibration reset didnt work for me. So I decided to bring it to Lexus, told them to tell me what it is before doing anything. When I went to pick up my car the service guy told me they had to recalibrate some steering sensor or something like that and had to do the Zero Point Calibration, which took them probably 10 mins to do. Gave me an invoice for 119...smh.

Here is a youtube vid on what you are about to try .


Goodluck, keep us updated.