jhriley

The A/C compressor apparently locked up on my 07 IS250 while accelerating and the belt slipped. Immediately turned off the A/C and everything returned to normal. At idle if the A/C was started it would kill the engine due to the drag. Bottom line, the A/C compressor locked up. Without any further troubleshooting, I have to assume the compressor needs replacing. I decided to try to replace the compressor myself. I cannot find any information on the forum of anyone doing this on an IS250.
Does anyone have any experience in doing this and what pitfalls or engine components that need to be removed to replace the compressor? I have a friend who is going to remove refrigerant and re-charge. Thanks for any help (and advising to take to the dealer isn't a help at this point and I have already purchased a new Denso compressor). Thanks

strikeraj

I am in the same boat on an IS350
Just got a new denso compressor from rockauto


from the look of it, doesn't seem too bad
steps im going to take (system already evacuated of refrigerant)
1. remove battery negative terminal
2. remove electrical connector on compressor
3. remove ac hose connecting to compressor
4. remove belt
5. unbolt mounting bolt


compressor is sitting quite open when the bellypan is removed, so should be easier than doing the alternator


I will try to take picture and note any interesting/annoying spots I encounter


Im still trying to find the torque value of the bolts though


south Atlanta lexus part website has the blow up diagram so you know how things are connected

jhriley

Well, the compressor came out relatively easily. Now my issue is finding out how much oil to add to the new compressor. Several instructions say to drain out the oil from the old compressor and put this amount in the new compressor. Well, there doesn't seem to be ANY oil in the old compressor. That might be why it locked up in the first place. I also can't turn it to see if I can get any oil out. This Lexus is a 2007 with 140K miles and this is the first service on the A/C. I wonder if it should have had a can of oil/R134A added sometime ago even without cooling issues? Anyway, it I can't find anything definitive, I will go with 3 oz, which is what some folks on this forum have estimated.

strikeraj

Can't help you on this one,
i got the brand new compressor with oil prefilled so I am not going to mess with that

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Are you using the clutch off the old compressor or did it come with a new clutch/pulley?

strikeraj

new denso unit from rockauto comes with clutch assembly

firelikeiy

I replaced the compressor on my old Toyota Camry. It also had a Denso compressor so I am assuming this would be the same for the IS. The compressor came with a warning to run the engine WITHOUT engaging the A/C clutch for a certain period of time. It was a slip of paper that was included in the box. I can't remember how long you are suppose to run the engine for but I want to say 30 minutes. Anyway, I didn't see this slip of paper until I was all done and packing away the old compressor in the box. As a result, after changing the compressor, I instinctively turned on the A/C to see if it worked or not. I put the car up for sale shortly after changing the A/C as I just purchased a minivan but before I sold it the A/C started making weird grinding type of noises when the A/C was off. I am assuming its because I didn't allow the clutch bearing to break in as per that leaflet. The noises didn't happen all of the time but it would happen occasionally.

strikeraj

Thanks for the heads up.
On my instruction, it does not say run the engine without engaging ac clutch but it mentioned to turn the pulley around 10 times before installing after removing from box, in order to distribute the oil

strikeraj

finally swapped out the compressor
the old compressor is likely grenade inside. There is sound of metal shavings when I shake it.
Now I need to take off the drier cap and filter to see if anything was blown into the system.

Bichon

Aren't you going to replace the drier? Do you have a vacuum pump and the other tools needed to properly evacuate and recharge?

strikeraj

Yes I am replacing the drier, but just now if I see metal bits on the drier filter I need to get the system flushed


I don't have the equipment to vacuum and charge, so I am getting a shop to deal with the refrigerant part. I had the shop to evacuate and do the leak test before I replace the compressor myself

dbalkaran

Wish I had the tools and time to fix a compressor myself. Just paid $1200 after a $750 service credit from Lexus to have mine changed.

strikeraj

the compressor replacement doesn't take much actually.
4 hrs of work (doing slowly) and a basic socket set is all I used (plus jack and jack stands of course)

JoeSK

Metal bits aren't good... You will need an expansion valve and more if metal filings have contaminated the system. Any little bits that weren't removed from the system after replacement may cause the new compressor to pack it in again.

strikeraj

bad news
That stupid cap of the drier is a b&()%h to open up.
I tried removing it with the condenser still mounted and one of the lower mounting tab of the condenser sheared and the cap still won't bulge.


Can someone educate me the path of refrigerant after leaving high pressure side of compressor?


if the refrigerant goes straight to the filter of the drier, I am going to just go ahead and charge it and see. Cause in that case if there is any bit that was puked out of the compressor, should be caught by the filter without going into the system, right?