The car drove fine on the 23rd and early into Christmas Eve (12:30am or so), though I do seem to recall a couple instances of rough idling. Then later in the morning, I went to start the car and as soon as I pushed the brake pedal and start button, all the electrical just shut off. Couldn't lock the doors, turn on lights - nothing worked. A few hours later I went outside and noticed that the navigation screen and dash lights were on - which seemed really strange. I got in the car and pushed the start button and everything turned off, as expected. Then I went to lock the car using the remote and it started to make some faint hoking noises - eventually it stopped after I kept pushing the lock button.

This morning, I walked up to the door handle to try to open the car and the honking start - almost like the alarm was going off - but the car would not unlock; I had to pop the cover off the door handle and stick they key in!

Anyway, I ended up getting the car to jump start after leaving it hooked up to another car for 10 minutes or so. When it finally started, it seems OK but then as I started to drive all the electronics started to flicker on and off. The BRAKE, ABS, VSC, and traction control warning lights would illuminate every few seconds and I could feel a loss of power steering. I let the car run for like 30 minutes, and tried going around the block a couple times and observed the same symptoms.

Finally, I turned off the car and tried to immediately restart it and it didn't even crank. The electrical seemed to be working, but the car wouldn't start - I tried once and gave up.

Does this sound like an alternator issue? I've never had on go out on me so I'm not sure - at first I thought it was just the battery, but I don't think that seems as likely as this point. The car is a 2008 IS350 w/112k ish on a two-year old battery...

One last comment - though I'm sure it's not related - I recently had the VVT Cam Gear Actuator recall done a couple months ago. I did notice a decrease in MPG immediately following this recall repair.

 

The symptoms sounds like a ver very low batt and bad alternator. Charge the batt, plug it back in and make sure it starts. Take a voltmeter and measure the voltage. I forget the exact voltage range

 

So if the battery is charged and reads within the normal voltage range while running, the issue is the alternator? What would it mean if after the charge the car did not start?

 

^If while running you get normal readings, then it sounds like a bad battery. Take the battery out of the car and take it somewhere to be load tested.

 

Ok, I was planning to get it tested at Autozone today - figured its always way easier to start with the little things first.

 

Just got the battery back from Autozone and it read 10.4V and would not take a charge beyond that. I'll try to get the battery replaced under the (pro-rated) warranty and then go from there - back to Autozone to get the alternator tested, I suppose.

 

Got a new battery and went back to Autozone and it turns out the alternator's voltage regulator isn't working. Looks like I'll be changing the alternator some time in the next few days... Exactly, how I envisioned spending my time off work! haha

 

^Bummer! But at least you'll be back on the road SAFELY soon. I had to do my alternator within the last year myself. Lifetime warrantied AutoZone reman unit.

 

I finished the alternator replacement but am a little concerned. When I had the alternated tested while still on the car, it read bad, however, when I went to Autozone today, they tested it three times in their machine and it passed each time!

They people said it sounded "weak" and so I went ahead and installed a new one - to be safe I guess. I have a new battery and alternator now, so I am hoping there isn't some other issue...

 

^Are you saying you had the "new", reman alternator tested or the original one?

I assume now with the "new", reman unit you've not had an issues?

 

They tested the original unit once I pulled it - I guess that's just protocol. The original passed when they hooked it up to their machine and tested it three times. Needless to say, I am thinking "WTF" the whole time. They said it (the original) sounded "weak" but that it was passing; they failed it anyway so I could use it for the core charge. I wasn't about to put it back in after all the trouble of pulling it... It did fail the first test a few days earlier - installed and with the car running.

I have not driven the car anymore than just around the block since changing the alternator as we have been using the wife's car because we needed the bit of extra room (lots of shopping, driving people, etc.).

 

I ran into similar issues the other day as well. Was heading home and as I turned onto my street, the power steering was gone and the battery light came on followed by the check vsc light.. Turned off the car and it would not turn over.

Jumped the car in the morning and headed to my family friends shop who normally works on the car . On my way there, I noticed a faint winding noise which I haven't heard before. 15 mins after I set off, the same thing happens, power steering gone and the dash lit up like a christmas tree. Good thing I had my cables on me and the gf trailing me. Was able to pull onto a quiet street to have the car jumped again. I make it to the shop and car dies as I pull in and slight burning smell from the hood.

Battery was charged/tested and it held its charge. Alternator tested and it was Car is just under 100k. Should have the car back tomorrow. I wonder if other members are having this issue as well.

 

Had this about a month ago... here is my thread.

Ended up being the alt - installed a reman and it has been running great ever since.