i need help ! =(
02-28-12, 06:36 PM
#5
Pop out of what? My spoiler came with 2 built in mounting hole to be screwed down. After I drilled the holes and screw it to the trunk it just didnt fit that great. It was also a real pain on the *** gettin at the location from the inside of the trunk. I eventually unbolted it, covered the botom side of the spoiler with the silicone and put it on. You CAN MOVE IT Around and get it into the best position that suits you, Then I put some painters tape on it and let it cure overnight and it worked great. Been on for 2 yrs now.
02-28-12, 07:02 PM
#6
No It wont chip, that shlt is like rubber glue. Never going to take it off though, it would be a *****. I think mine did pop up on one side or the other. I guess you could say it was slightly warped. All I did was after putting the silicone on and attaching it I used some weights so It was down on both sides. Let it dry and its good to go.
02-28-12, 07:38 PM
#7
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Alright this is how to get double-sided tape to work.
First if there is any tape still stuck to the wing use a fresh razor blade to cut off. If there is any tape still attached to the deck lid you will need a special tool called a smart eraser pad to remove it. At that point you would be better off taking it to a body shop because they will be much better equipped to do this. If on the off chance you do decide to use an eraser pad on your deck lid, be very very careful with it as you could potentially burn right through your clear coat.
Once all your old tape is cleaned off, if there was any stuck to begin with, apply a molding tape adhesion promoter to the bottom of the wing where the new tape will go. Allow that to flash off before you press the new tape onto the wing. If your deck lid has the original paint I would also use a wax and grease remover to clean it where the tape will go, as well as apply the adhesion promoter to the deck lid. If your deck lid has fresh paint forgo the adhesion promoter.
Once your new tape is firmly pressed onto the wing, and the adhesion promoter has flashed off the deck lid, pull off the backing of the tape and go for it. Once you pressed the wing down hard there's no going back, so get it where you want it before you apply any pressure at all. If you don't like where it ended up you will have to repeat this whole process over.
Maybe before you pull off the backing on the tape you should test fit it first and mark the edges with masking tape so you know where you want it to be when you do press it down. This tape takes a lot of pressure to properly adhere. Also note that if the tape gets wet at all before you press it on it will be ruined so make sure everything is 100% dry, and as someone else said don't do this when it's cold, i.e. less than 70 degrees out.
First if there is any tape still stuck to the wing use a fresh razor blade to cut off. If there is any tape still attached to the deck lid you will need a special tool called a smart eraser pad to remove it. At that point you would be better off taking it to a body shop because they will be much better equipped to do this. If on the off chance you do decide to use an eraser pad on your deck lid, be very very careful with it as you could potentially burn right through your clear coat.
Once all your old tape is cleaned off, if there was any stuck to begin with, apply a molding tape adhesion promoter to the bottom of the wing where the new tape will go. Allow that to flash off before you press the new tape onto the wing. If your deck lid has the original paint I would also use a wax and grease remover to clean it where the tape will go, as well as apply the adhesion promoter to the deck lid. If your deck lid has fresh paint forgo the adhesion promoter.
Once your new tape is firmly pressed onto the wing, and the adhesion promoter has flashed off the deck lid, pull off the backing of the tape and go for it. Once you pressed the wing down hard there's no going back, so get it where you want it before you apply any pressure at all. If you don't like where it ended up you will have to repeat this whole process over.
Maybe before you pull off the backing on the tape you should test fit it first and mark the edges with masking tape so you know where you want it to be when you do press it down. This tape takes a lot of pressure to properly adhere. Also note that if the tape gets wet at all before you press it on it will be ruined so make sure everything is 100% dry, and as someone else said don't do this when it's cold, i.e. less than 70 degrees out.
Last edited by Nathan22; 02-28-12 at 07:45 PM. Reason: additional information
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02-28-12, 07:51 PM
#8
Alright this is how to get double-sided tape to work.
First if there is any tape still stuck to the wing use a fresh razor blade to cut off. If there is any tape still attached to the deck lid you will need a special tool called a smart eraser pad to remove it. At that point you would be better off taking it to a body shop because they will be much better equipped to do this. If on the off chance you do decide to use an eraser pad on your deck lid, be very very careful with it as you could potentially burn right through your clear coat.
Once all your old tape is cleaned off, if there was any stuck to begin with, apply a molding tape adhesion promoter to the bottom of the wing where the new tape will go. Allow that to flash off before you press the new tape onto the wing. If your deck lid has the original paint I would also use a wax and grease remover to clean it where the tape will go, as well as apply the adhesion promoter to the deck lid. If your deck lid has fresh paint forgo the adhesion promoter.
Once your new tape is firmly pressed onto the wing, and the adhesion promoter has flashed off the deck lid, pull off the backing of the tape and go for it. Once you pressed the wing down hard there's no going back, so get it where you want it before you apply any pressure at all. If you don't like where it ended up you will have to repeat this whole process over.
Maybe before you pull off the backing on the tape you should test fit it first and mark the edges with masking tape so you know where you want it to be when you do press it down. This tape takes a lot of pressure to properly adhere. Also note that if the tape gets wet at all before you press it on it will be ruined so make sure everything is 100% dry, and as someone else said don't do this when it's cold, i.e. less than 70 degrees out.
First if there is any tape still stuck to the wing use a fresh razor blade to cut off. If there is any tape still attached to the deck lid you will need a special tool called a smart eraser pad to remove it. At that point you would be better off taking it to a body shop because they will be much better equipped to do this. If on the off chance you do decide to use an eraser pad on your deck lid, be very very careful with it as you could potentially burn right through your clear coat.
Once all your old tape is cleaned off, if there was any stuck to begin with, apply a molding tape adhesion promoter to the bottom of the wing where the new tape will go. Allow that to flash off before you press the new tape onto the wing. If your deck lid has the original paint I would also use a wax and grease remover to clean it where the tape will go, as well as apply the adhesion promoter to the deck lid. If your deck lid has fresh paint forgo the adhesion promoter.
Once your new tape is firmly pressed onto the wing, and the adhesion promoter has flashed off the deck lid, pull off the backing of the tape and go for it. Once you pressed the wing down hard there's no going back, so get it where you want it before you apply any pressure at all. If you don't like where it ended up you will have to repeat this whole process over.
Maybe before you pull off the backing on the tape you should test fit it first and mark the edges with masking tape so you know where you want it to be when you do press it down. This tape takes a lot of pressure to properly adhere. Also note that if the tape gets wet at all before you press it on it will be ruined so make sure everything is 100% dry, and as someone else said don't do this when it's cold, i.e. less than 70 degrees out.
okey i shall do it when its warmer out =) thanks man
02-28-12, 08:03 PM
#9
So I also used the 3m silicon, i found a clear one it basically is rubber glue, holds super tight, used it on my roof and trunk lip, i had same propblem, i would stay away from double sided tape, just apply the sillicone and have a friend hold one side down and you the other, heres mines 
02-28-12, 09:45 PM
#10
Make sure you have the right 3M double sided tape... there's quite a few available but you should be using the one that says 3M Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape The tape itself is black in color.
Preparation is the key. The area should be free from any wax or grease. This can easily be achieved by wiping off the area with 50% water/ 50% isopropyl alcohol solution. Let it dry.
Use an adhesion promoter on both the spoiler and your car's surface. 3M makes one that you can buy in packets.
Let it dry out in the sun for at least a day to let the tape cure and adhere to the paint's surface.
Preparation is the key. The area should be free from any wax or grease. This can easily be achieved by wiping off the area with 50% water/ 50% isopropyl alcohol solution. Let it dry.
Use an adhesion promoter on both the spoiler and your car's surface. 3M makes one that you can buy in packets.
Let it dry out in the sun for at least a day to let the tape cure and adhere to the paint's surface.
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