replace alternator?
07-29-14, 01:05 PM
#32
the water pump looks pretty intimidating to replace. not sure if that's something i can diy? plus i'm still under the powertrain warranty and if it was the waterpump, i would have the dealer replace it for free. i'm not exactly sure how they diagnosed the alternator, but i did pay them $73 to diagnose it. does anyone know what recourse i have if it turns out that they misdiagnosed it and it's not the alternator?
the squeak is very high pitched, like a chirp. i get it when i first start it up and when i accelerate slowly in 1st gear (i have a manual). i also get the squeak when i'm in a higher gear than i should be (going 20 mph in 4th gear, with rpms under 1,000). i don't get it when idling in neutral, however, if i turn on my ac, i get a continuous chirp every 1.5 seconds or so. it seems as though i get the noise when there is some strain on the engine. i have almost 65,000 miles.
the squeak is very high pitched, like a chirp. i get it when i first start it up and when i accelerate slowly in 1st gear (i have a manual). i also get the squeak when i'm in a higher gear than i should be (going 20 mph in 4th gear, with rpms under 1,000). i don't get it when idling in neutral, however, if i turn on my ac, i get a continuous chirp every 1.5 seconds or so. it seems as though i get the noise when there is some strain on the engine. i have almost 65,000 miles.
Good luck and report back.
07-30-14, 12:32 AM
#34
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Its the IS250, the aircon unit is in the way, ive dropped that as well but the pipes are in the way. There is just no place to wiggle it from there
12-20-14, 03:54 PM
#37
Driver School Candidate
2006 Lexus IS250 Alternator engine mount bracket
OK. HERE is how you get that bracket bolt off the engine side (engine stud).
So, the bolt holding bracket to engine is 12mm (whereas the bolt holding bracket to alternator is reportedly 10mm). But if you do not have a 12mm socket, then a 1/2" hex socket will work (at least my bolt was loose enough already to come off without stripping). However, the engine stud that the bolt is bolted onto is fairly long, so try not to have too much of a shallow socket (one trick is to TAPE the socket onto the end of the extension, instead of putting it all the way on over the ball-bearing lock, where it is ON JUST ENOUGH to be able to use).
So, I used two 3" extenders -- and trust me, it works better than one 6" extender, because when you sink a 3" extender into the other 3" extender, it actually comes out to be 5.5" total, giving you a half inch extra play room compared to the 6" one-piece extender; and you most definitely will need this extra room since the wratchet will hit driver side wheel-well.
OK, so, from driver side of engine, use a flashlight to get line-of-sight to the bolt and stud behind the alternator. You CAN see it. It IS possible. I will try to get a good pic uploaded. Now, drop your L-shaped wratchet-with-two-3"-extenders-and-12mm-or-1/2"-hex-socket tool down between the engine and car body just over the exhaust manifold, then you will guide your L-shaped tool around the exhaust manifold, with socket leading the way, till you get it angle in, then dock with the bolt! Then turn and loosen, but you most likely won't be able to drive it all the way off as to where the bolt sticks inside the socket. So, when it's loose enough and stops driving, get the 6" extender (yes, the benched player steps in to save the game), and put the socket on it, but instead of using the wratchet just use your hand and manually turn the extender to take off the bolt. NOW, CAUTION: The bolt may still drop, so be careful. In MY case, it didn't seem to want to stick to the socket; so what I did was left it on threaded on just one or two threads at the end of the stud, and then I reached in with my bare hand (and this can be difficult to get all the way to the bolt because you have to crouch down and stick your whole arm down between the engine and body, so it depends on your arm & hand size (and height
)). Anyway, if you are able to use your hand, be sure to 3-finger it (with your INDEX, MIDDLE & RING fingers, not thumb). It's such a tight space, you most likely won't be able to use your thumb, so use your middle three fingers, and, LIKE A TRIPOD, unscrew the bolt slowly until it's off, carefully maintaining a clamp on it with your 3 fingers, then extract your arm & hand carefully out. Thing is, if you drop the bolt, it'll be very difficult to find with all the under-pans and A-frame and such, etc. Anyway, glad I got that out of the way.
Good luck!
So, the bolt holding bracket to engine is 12mm (whereas the bolt holding bracket to alternator is reportedly 10mm). But if you do not have a 12mm socket, then a 1/2" hex socket will work (at least my bolt was loose enough already to come off without stripping). However, the engine stud that the bolt is bolted onto is fairly long, so try not to have too much of a shallow socket (one trick is to TAPE the socket onto the end of the extension, instead of putting it all the way on over the ball-bearing lock, where it is ON JUST ENOUGH to be able to use).
So, I used two 3" extenders -- and trust me, it works better than one 6" extender, because when you sink a 3" extender into the other 3" extender, it actually comes out to be 5.5" total, giving you a half inch extra play room compared to the 6" one-piece extender; and you most definitely will need this extra room since the wratchet will hit driver side wheel-well.
OK, so, from driver side of engine, use a flashlight to get line-of-sight to the bolt and stud behind the alternator. You CAN see it. It IS possible. I will try to get a good pic uploaded. Now, drop your L-shaped wratchet-with-two-3"-extenders-and-12mm-or-1/2"-hex-socket tool down between the engine and car body just over the exhaust manifold, then you will guide your L-shaped tool around the exhaust manifold, with socket leading the way, till you get it angle in, then dock with the bolt! Then turn and loosen, but you most likely won't be able to drive it all the way off as to where the bolt sticks inside the socket. So, when it's loose enough and stops driving, get the 6" extender (yes, the benched player steps in to save the game), and put the socket on it, but instead of using the wratchet just use your hand and manually turn the extender to take off the bolt. NOW, CAUTION: The bolt may still drop, so be careful. In MY case, it didn't seem to want to stick to the socket; so what I did was left it on threaded on just one or two threads at the end of the stud, and then I reached in with my bare hand (and this can be difficult to get all the way to the bolt because you have to crouch down and stick your whole arm down between the engine and body, so it depends on your arm & hand size (and height
)). Anyway, if you are able to use your hand, be sure to 3-finger it (with your INDEX, MIDDLE & RING fingers, not thumb). It's such a tight space, you most likely won't be able to use your thumb, so use your middle three fingers, and, LIKE A TRIPOD, unscrew the bolt slowly until it's off, carefully maintaining a clamp on it with your 3 fingers, then extract your arm & hand carefully out. Thing is, if you drop the bolt, it'll be very difficult to find with all the under-pans and A-frame and such, etc. Anyway, glad I got that out of the way.Good luck!
Last edited by chenderson; 12-20-14 at 03:58 PM.
12-20-14, 04:03 PM
#38
Driver School Candidate
squeak or grind - alternator has a clutch
a tech at northside lexus in houston told me that these alternators have a clutch inside which when going bad can grind or squeak. just an fyi.
01-29-15, 06:45 PM
#43
Driver School Candidate
Could anyone give me tips about the belt? Do you just remove the bolt to the pulley and pop it off with the belt? Should I replace the belt since it's off? Anyone know the torque specs, or should I just hand tighten?
Overall, looks like a simple job, 2 bolts for two pulleys, 3 bolts I think for the alternator and the 3 bolts for the coolant? thingy above it to move it out of the way.
01-30-15, 12:42 PM
#44
The belt should be the most simple part of the ALT change. NO, you do not remove a bolt or a pulley. You simply attach a socket wrench to the adjustable pulley and turn counterclockwise. The whole pulley will move inwards, allowing room to remove the belt with your hand. Once belt is removed, slowly release tension on the pulley, and remove socket wrench. Inspect the belt for cracking or missing ribs; if in such shape, replace.
01-30-15, 02:55 PM
#45
Driver School Candidate
The belt should be the most simple part of the ALT change. NO, you do not remove a bolt or a pulley. You simply attach a socket wrench to the adjustable pulley and turn counterclockwise. The whole pulley will move inwards, allowing room to remove the belt with your hand. Once belt is removed, slowly release tension on the pulley, and remove socket wrench. Inspect the belt for cracking or missing ribs; if in such shape, replace.