is350 Brake Fluid flush
I would DIY. I just did mine about 2 months ago by myself (I have a set of speedbleeders) and it took about an hour total. I went with two bottles of fluid and have about 1/4 of one of the bottles left.
Rookie
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: fl
If you can find a competent mechanic that will use quality fluid for 200$ I would let them do it.Brakes are messy and unless you have a lift bleeders are hard to get to.It seems IS abs is pretty strait forward but I have seen many other brake systems that are a nightmare to bleed.
If you can find a competent mechanic that will use quality fluid for 200$ I would let them do it.Brakes are messy and unless you have a lift bleeders are hard to get to.It seems IS abs is pretty strait forward but I have seen many other brake systems that are a nightmare to bleed.
$200 is insanely too much for a brake fluid change.
Does anyone bleed their brakes without removing the wheels? I havn't tried it on the IS but I just stick a small wrench and open and close the bleeder if the wheel has space
Is $120 the going rate for most dealers? I have read in another thread someone paid $180.
Is $120 the going rate for most dealers? I have read in another thread someone paid $180.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: ca
bringing this back from the dead...
do anyone have any pics on where the old fluid will come out of on the calipers???
or any help to a DIY with a step-by-step pics
it would help very much...
thanks
Night
P.S getting ready to put in some new rotors and brake pads in a few weeks
do anyone have any pics on where the old fluid will come out of on the calipers???
or any help to a DIY with a step-by-step pics
it would help very much...
thanks
Night
P.S getting ready to put in some new rotors and brake pads in a few weeks
there is a fitting on the caliper that is covered by a rubber nipple. You need a 10mm wrench to open the valve
brake bleeding is the same for every car, some easier than others. Using ramps helps so you dont have to take off the wheels
brake bleeding is the same for every car, some easier than others. Using ramps helps so you dont have to take off the wheels
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 3
From: Californ-i-a
Nobody answered that question because you should be doing your own research. These are your BRAKES and shouldnt be attempted but correctly performed. I shouldnt have to say how important these are 
You should be using a glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1). Brake fluids with different DOT ratings can not be mixed.
This is irrelevant under normal driving conditions. (I.E.: your communte wont get "better" braking power, you wont stop faster, and you wont stop "better." What you will have is a more consistant brake response.) I suggest you educate yourself if you plan on taking on the task of doing them yourself. IMHO, if you're trying to save yourself $120 bucks from the dealer, you can (a) bring your own supplies to offset the cost or (b) find yourself a shop that will do it on the cheap.
With that being said, I replaced my Toyota Genuine Brake Fluid (DOT 3) 00475-1BF03 with StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid (DOT 4) 501.00001. I tend to drive a little spiritedly on mountains and thus frequently use my brakes.
Originally Posted by DOT §571.116 S5.1.1 & S5.1.2
DOT # | Dry boiling point | Wet boiling point
DOT 3 | 205 °C (401 °F) | 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 | 230 °C (446 °F) | 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5.1 | 260 °C (500 °F) | 180 °C (356 °F)
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...px?reg=571.116
DOT 3 | 205 °C (401 °F) | 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 | 230 °C (446 °F) | 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5.1 | 260 °C (500 °F) | 180 °C (356 °F)
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...px?reg=571.116
With that being said, I replaced my Toyota Genuine Brake Fluid (DOT 3) 00475-1BF03 with StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid (DOT 4) 501.00001. I tend to drive a little spiritedly on mountains and thus frequently use my brakes.
Last edited by UniSlayEX; Jul 11, 2013 at 02:25 PM. Reason: DOT Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: ca
Nobody answered that question because you should be doing your own research. These are your BRAKES and shouldnt be attempted but correctly performed. I shouldnt have to say how important these are
You should be using a glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1). Brake fluids with different DOT ratings can not be mixed.
This is irrelevant under normal driving conditions. (I.E.: your communte wont get "better" braking power, you wont stop faster, and you wont stop "better." What you will have is a more consistant brake response.) I suggest you educate yourself if you plan on taking on the task of doing them yourself. IMHO, if you're trying to save yourself $120 bucks from the dealer, you can (a) bring your own supplies to offset the cost or (b) find yourself a shop that will do it on the cheap.
With that being said, I replaced my Toyota Genuine Brake Fluid (DOT 3) 00475-1BF03 with StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid (DOT 4) 501.00001. I tend to drive a little spiritedly on mountains and thus frequently use my brakes.
You should be using a glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1). Brake fluids with different DOT ratings can not be mixed.
This is irrelevant under normal driving conditions. (I.E.: your communte wont get "better" braking power, you wont stop faster, and you wont stop "better." What you will have is a more consistant brake response.) I suggest you educate yourself if you plan on taking on the task of doing them yourself. IMHO, if you're trying to save yourself $120 bucks from the dealer, you can (a) bring your own supplies to offset the cost or (b) find yourself a shop that will do it on the cheap.
With that being said, I replaced my Toyota Genuine Brake Fluid (DOT 3) 00475-1BF03 with StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid (DOT 4) 501.00001. I tend to drive a little spiritedly on mountains and thus frequently use my brakes.
sorry for asking a question.. just wanted to learn more about our cars and wanting to save some money. thats why i tried searching around before posting and not just making a new thread on this site...
its not just about the money for me i want to learn what i can about the car and thats why i joined...i guess i should look into another site now...
too bad i did like this one alot...Night
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 3
From: Californ-i-a
sorry for asking a question.. just wanted to learn more about our cars and wanting to save some money. thats why i tried searching around before posting and not just making a new thread on this site... its not just about the money for me i want to learn what i can about the car and thats why i joined...
i guess i should look into another site now... too bad i did like this one alot...
Night
its not just about the money for me i want to learn what i can about the car and thats why i joined...i guess i should look into another site now...
too bad i did like this one alot...Night
They're all pretty much the same. Suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. refill with fresh fluid and bleed all four calipers starting with the farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and working progressively closer to the master cylinder. Just be sure you never let the reservoir get below the LOW mark or you might introduce air into the system, then bleeding becomes a huge PITA.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
Wanted to confirm, when removing the existing brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, ALL existing fluid is to be removed, or leave some in, then refill with new fluid (old fluid will be pushed out during brake bleed procedure). Wanted to confirm if removing all existing brake fluid might allow air into the system, or it will be okay so long as you don't begin bleeding with empty master cylinder reservoir?