lug nut torque level
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04-06-10, 01:23 PM
#10
Keep doing that and if the torque wrench that's being used is underestimating the force being applied by a few ft/lbs. you run the risk of breaking wheel studs when trying to break the lug nuts free.
^This is a disaster waiting to happen.
You really should properly torque your lug nuts. Too low, and you run the risk of having your wheels fall off while driving. To high and you'll be replacing wheel studs before you know it.
The factory service manual states torque should be 76 ft/lbs. If you're wondering why, lobuxracer did a fantastic job of explaining in this post:
Javier
^This is a disaster waiting to happen.
You really should properly torque your lug nuts. Too low, and you run the risk of having your wheels fall off while driving. To high and you'll be replacing wheel studs before you know it.
The factory service manual states torque should be 76 ft/lbs. If you're wondering why, lobuxracer did a fantastic job of explaining in this post:
...Torque values are based on fastener stretch. Fastener stretch is based on the Young's modulus of the material used for the lug. In the case of rod bolts, the ideal way to install is to measure the bolt unloaded, then tighten until the specified stretch is reached. Some torque values are based on elastic range, others on plastic range (torque to yield). They're all based on the fastener's material and treatment.
Oiling the threads lowers the torque required to achieve the same stretch. Anti-seize is a lubricant on threads. All wheel specs are for dry threads. I don't trust dry threads, so I use anti-seize, even though I know it will stretch the fasteners more than Toyota expected.
Something to keep in mind - 76 ft-lbs is what Toyota recommended for the wheel lugs on the Supra, a 3500 lb car with 155 mph top speed limiter and a measured 0.98g cornering capability on a 300 foot skidpad. Unless you've measured the lug stretch or you have a specification from your spacer manufacturer, anything else is just a guess.
Oiling the threads lowers the torque required to achieve the same stretch. Anti-seize is a lubricant on threads. All wheel specs are for dry threads. I don't trust dry threads, so I use anti-seize, even though I know it will stretch the fasteners more than Toyota expected.
Something to keep in mind - 76 ft-lbs is what Toyota recommended for the wheel lugs on the Supra, a 3500 lb car with 155 mph top speed limiter and a measured 0.98g cornering capability on a 300 foot skidpad. Unless you've measured the lug stretch or you have a specification from your spacer manufacturer, anything else is just a guess.
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kenji211 (11-13-20)
04-14-17, 06:43 PM
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Old thread now new.
I know its 76 ft/lbs per manual, BUT surely this is for brand new studs and nuts. Unless my torque wrench is out of calibration (it's only 2 weeks old) I put it to 90, found two weeks later that the nuts weren't loose but they took little effort to remove. Are nut suppose to take little effort to remove?
I know its 76 ft/lbs per manual, BUT surely this is for brand new studs and nuts. Unless my torque wrench is out of calibration (it's only 2 weeks old) I put it to 90, found two weeks later that the nuts weren't loose but they took little effort to remove. Are nut suppose to take little effort to remove?
04-16-17, 01:10 PM
#12
Racer
Yes, a tight nut SHOULD require effort to remove them. As pointed out in post # 10 (bottom), you are stretching the stud, which is then trying to retract and that puts pressure on the nut.
04-16-17, 02:26 PM
#13
Bump what Javy said. You won't damage wheels but you will damage the studs. Not much effort is needed to remove the lugs because you're using a breaker bar, hence the little effort. Never over torque your studs nor under torque them. Always go by the manufactures recommendation. Wheel manufactures will tell you the same, at least what I've experienced. I remember in the late 80's, which I didn't know jack about cars, I'd wrench on my lugs so tight that is was nearly impossible to crack the lugs. Thankfully nothing ever happened to the studs but it was pure dumbness on my end. I guess I hadn't had anyone to teach me accept in high school.
04-16-17, 02:43 PM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks for the responses guys. My car is a 2nd gen and it's 10 year old. Surely the threads on the studs wouldn't have worn, I don't change wheels very often so have never taken the wheels off for like over 3 years which was the last time I did it. Yes 76 would be ideal but I read somewhere that 76 was for new cars (studs) and that you'll need to increase the tension for older cars and especially aftermarket wheels and nuts.
I did use a breaker bar but compare to say oil sump plug where I used small hand wrench it used 75% effort, the nut (with breaker bar) was around %25.
Also our nut are mag seat with washer and with the washer it seems you need to tighten them extra. when I re-tensioned the nuts with torque wrench, it turned a little before clicking.
I did use a breaker bar but compare to say oil sump plug where I used small hand wrench it used 75% effort, the nut (with breaker bar) was around %25.
Also our nut are mag seat with washer and with the washer it seems you need to tighten them extra. when I re-tensioned the nuts with torque wrench, it turned a little before clicking.
04-16-17, 03:09 PM
#15
Pole Position
should be close to 80. If they are new lugs, make you you drive around 100 miles and retorque the lug nuts. New lugs or wheel setups loosen in the beginning.
Dont overtorque or else they could snap and that would be a *****. Safe is 75-85.
Dont forget to pit anti anti seize on your lugs! Good luck!
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