wheel spacers? newbie
wheel spacers? newbie
I was thinking of getting some wheel spacers for my is250, for the meantime until i get my wheels which are forcasted in the future. I was think 12mm for the rear and 5mm for the front, to achieve a better stance, or should i get 12mm all around? im unsure of measurements but would like to get wheels as flush with the fenders as possible. for a wide stance look. anyone with suggestions? car currently is not lowered, only about 3.5 weeks old. thinking of ebiach pro or sport kit. any ideas would be great thanks
Last edited by iialcii; Sep 17, 2007 at 12:22 AM.
Pole Position
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
I have Project Kics Wheels Adapter (spacer with new bolts built in) 10mm in front and 15mm in the back. Our Stock 18"s have +45 front and +50 rear for offsets so with my setup it will be +35 all around. These wheel adaptors are wheel centric and hubcentric and simply bolts on top of your existing hub (no need to get longer studs)
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
I have Project Kics Wheels Adapter (spacer with new bolts built in) 10mm in front and 15mm in the back. Our Stock 18"s have +45 front and +50 rear for offsets so with my setup it will be +35 all around. These wheel adaptors are wheel centric and hubcentric and simply bolts on top of your existing hub (no need to get longer studs)
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
CL members are very helpful great to be part of the community. thanks again
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 1
From: Macao SAR
I have Project Kics Wheels Adapter (spacer with new bolts built in) 10mm in front and 15mm in the back. Our Stock 18"s have +45 front and +50 rear for offsets so with my setup it will be +35 all around. These wheel adaptors are wheel centric and hubcentric and simply bolts on top of your existing hub (no need to get longer studs)
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
I'm on the OEM sports suspension and it's close to being flush with the fenders and you can still have 5 passengers and a full trunk and will not rub during maximum suspension travel or full turns (for the fronts)
Another member had some customer fabricated wheel adapters 12mm front 17mm rear on OEM 18's and Eibach springs. Think his username was JavierLSU
Trending Topics
Pole Position
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
I got mine at evasive motorsports http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/me...s_Wheel_Spacer
Note that the wheel adapters (spacers) do not come with hub rings. You have to buy them seperately. The Spacer is hub centric to the car as standard. The optional hub rings will make the wheels hubcentric to the spacer which i strongly suggest to eliminate potential vibrations
iialcii - Wheel virbrations can be caused by an unbalanced wheel. Our factory OEM wheels are balanced so we're okay on that aspect. The other souce of wheel virbration can be due to using a non-hub centric wheel. Our OEM wheel is hub-centric to ensure that the wheel is perfectly centered on our hubs, but once you put a spacer that might change. Which is why you need to buy a spacer that is hub centric AND wheel centric. What this means is that the mounting side (back) of the spacer should be hub centric to the car's OEM hub & bolts, and the front of the spacer should be hub centric to the back of the OEM wheels. THis will ensure that the spacer is perfectly centered onto the hubs, and the wheel is perfectly centrered onto the spacer.
ISBB - Since you have aftermarket wheels, I suggest you just buy the wheel that has the correct offset that you want. I would only suggest spacers for those looking to keep their OEM wheels but want it more flush.
Note that the wheel adapters (spacers) do not come with hub rings. You have to buy them seperately. The Spacer is hub centric to the car as standard. The optional hub rings will make the wheels hubcentric to the spacer which i strongly suggest to eliminate potential vibrations
iialcii - Wheel virbrations can be caused by an unbalanced wheel. Our factory OEM wheels are balanced so we're okay on that aspect. The other souce of wheel virbration can be due to using a non-hub centric wheel. Our OEM wheel is hub-centric to ensure that the wheel is perfectly centered on our hubs, but once you put a spacer that might change. Which is why you need to buy a spacer that is hub centric AND wheel centric. What this means is that the mounting side (back) of the spacer should be hub centric to the car's OEM hub & bolts, and the front of the spacer should be hub centric to the back of the OEM wheels. THis will ensure that the spacer is perfectly centered onto the hubs, and the wheel is perfectly centrered onto the spacer.
ISBB - Since you have aftermarket wheels, I suggest you just buy the wheel that has the correct offset that you want. I would only suggest spacers for those looking to keep their OEM wheels but want it more flush.
I got mine at evasive motorsports http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/me...s_Wheel_Spacer
Note that the wheel adapters (spacers) do not come with hub rings. You have to buy them seperately. The Spacer is hub centric to the car as standard. The optional hub rings will make the wheels hubcentric to the spacer which i strongly suggest to eliminate potential vibrations
iialcii - Wheel virbrations can be caused by an unbalanced wheel. Our factory OEM wheels are balanced so we're okay on that aspect. The other souce of wheel virbration can be due to using a non-hub centric wheel. Our OEM wheel is hub-centric to ensure that the wheel is perfectly centered on our hubs, but once you put a spacer that might change. Which is why you need to buy a spacer that is hub centric AND wheel centric. What this means is that the mounting side (back) of the spacer should be hub centric to the car's OEM hub & bolts, and the front of the spacer should be hub centric to the back of the OEM wheels. THis will ensure that the spacer is perfectly centered onto the hubs, and the wheel is perfectly centrered onto the spacer.
ISBB - Since you have aftermarket wheels, I suggest you just buy the wheel that has the correct offset that you want. I would only suggest spacers for those looking to keep their OEM wheels but want it more flush.
Note that the wheel adapters (spacers) do not come with hub rings. You have to buy them seperately. The Spacer is hub centric to the car as standard. The optional hub rings will make the wheels hubcentric to the spacer which i strongly suggest to eliminate potential vibrations
iialcii - Wheel virbrations can be caused by an unbalanced wheel. Our factory OEM wheels are balanced so we're okay on that aspect. The other souce of wheel virbration can be due to using a non-hub centric wheel. Our OEM wheel is hub-centric to ensure that the wheel is perfectly centered on our hubs, but once you put a spacer that might change. Which is why you need to buy a spacer that is hub centric AND wheel centric. What this means is that the mounting side (back) of the spacer should be hub centric to the car's OEM hub & bolts, and the front of the spacer should be hub centric to the back of the OEM wheels. THis will ensure that the spacer is perfectly centered onto the hubs, and the wheel is perfectly centrered onto the spacer.
ISBB - Since you have aftermarket wheels, I suggest you just buy the wheel that has the correct offset that you want. I would only suggest spacers for those looking to keep their OEM wheels but want it more flush.
Pole Position
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
here's the thread i made earlier when i had my spacers installed.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ghlight=spacer
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ghlight=spacer
Don't the stock lugs have to be cut off in order to use those spacers from Project Kics? If so, then I would MUCH rather have the ones from H&R that simply replace the stock lugs with longer ones. Changing out the stock lugs is super easy. The H&R spacers are also about 1/2 the price, and are hub and wheel centric.
