Wet or Dry method for applying Vinyl Redouts?

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Aug 15, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #1  
So I got my redout kit from Rvinyl today. I tried the wet method first (spray with soapy water) and it came out horrible. I couldn't squeegy out all the water bubbles. The other one I tried the dry method and it came out almost perfect. I ordered a new set nonetheless.

So do you guys use the wet or dry method? Either way, I really cant see the bubbles Im pushing out because I'm unable to look through the opaque transfer sheet to see if all the bubbles are pushed out.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #2  
I did the dry method for the red outs.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 02:59 PM
  #3  
isn't it like tint where once it dry it becomes bubble less and basically perfect looking? In my experience vynl tends to dry without any air bubbles
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:03 PM
  #4  
I did the wet and it came out perfect. I didnt even get any air bubbles. Did you try using a blow dryer to get it to dry a little quicker?
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #5  
I need to redo my fogs, this time Im going to do it wet. I used a blow dryer with the dry method as well, this way it sticks and doesnt come loose.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:37 PM
  #6  
do wet method
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:47 PM
  #7  
Quote: I need to redo my fogs...
How do you take them off?
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #8  
Well when i installed the redouts on my IS, i used the wet method and even though there were still some bubbles, a lot disapperared a few days later. For the dry method, what if you put it on in the wrong area, is it easy to pull off and then re apply?
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Aug 15, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #9  
I did the wet method just as they described in the instructions and it came out very well, no bubbles. Maybe I learned a thing or two watching Premier put the clear bra on my car. I peeled the red vinyl completely off the backing, sprayed it liberally with soapy water, did the same to the amber area of the taillight, and put it on. I had maybe 30 seconds or so to move it around easily before it started to stick, which was plenty of time to line it up just right and push out any bubbles. I did this on a fairly warm day in my garage so no need for a hair dryer.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #10  
I used the wet method. Worked great 4 me!
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Aug 15, 2007 | 04:11 PM
  #11  
the reason why you want there to be some moisture is so that when the vinyl sheet is on the taillight you can still move it around to the position you want it. Once its in the right position you just squeeze the water out with that plastic blade they give you and let it dry for a few days. This is in essence how window tinting is done as well.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #12  
Dry method worked perfectly for me too. Just took my time and in about 5 minutes per side it was put on perfectly. ZERO Bubbles. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=292098
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Aug 15, 2007 | 06:35 PM
  #13  
OK, I see how it goes. I'm suppose to spray the back of the vinyl as well as the tailight so I have a few seconds to shift it around perfect.

So Im assuming I need to remove the vinyl off the clear opaque sheet as well? If I do that and use the plastic sqeegee on the red vinyl itself, wouldn't it scratch up the vinyl?
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Aug 15, 2007 | 07:20 PM
  #14  
some people have wrapped the plastic squeegee with some cloth, like a piece of an old t-shirt. some people use a business card. if you use the bare plastic squeegee, it will scratch the vinyl, but its not noticeable unless you really look at it.
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Aug 15, 2007 | 07:21 PM
  #15  
Quote: I used the wet method. Worked great 4 me!
Same here. It's just like tinting a window.
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