A/C Not cold enough. Blend Door?
I'm in texas so it's definitely hot here. I noticed that when at standstill the A/C did not work well, and in general could be a lot cooler. Also noticed right vent was warmer than left vent.
Got my freon topped up and it's a bit cooler and the problem of both vents being at different temps went away, but the air still isn't as cold as I'd like it to be.
Could this be a symptom of the blend door actuator being stuck in some position? Or perhaps I need a new condensor?
2008 ISF
I had the freon refreshed professionally and that helped, but I still have two issues that really annoy me.
The A/C is STILL not all that cold. In every car I've ever owned, I could sit at a standstill and get the car to be really cool. When it's hot outside, this car's A/C seems to really struggle to cool the whole car quickly, especially when at stand still. And I have ceramic tint.
Even more annoying is the vibration. The A/C creates this massive reverberation throughout the cabin and goes away when A/C is turned off. It sounds like frequency beats ("vvvROOOmmmmmmmmmmmVROOmmmmmmmmmmmVROOmmmmmmmmmm..."). In other words, cyclical.
What gives??
Edit: before you ask, engine mounts are brand new OEM.
Edit 2: Going to make a post in the ISF forum as this might be engine specific
Last edited by DanceEng; Sep 24, 2024 at 12:49 PM.
I had the freon refreshed professionally and that helped, but I still have two issues that really annoy me.
The A/C is STILL not all that cold. In every car I've ever owned, I could sit at a standstill and get the car to be really cool. When it's hot outside, this car's A/C seems to really struggle to cool the whole car quickly, especially when at stand still. And I have ceramic tint.
Even more annoying is the vibration. The A/C creates this massive reverberation throughout the cabin and goes away when A/C is turned off. It sounds like frequency beats ("vvvROOOmmmmmmmmmmmVROOmmmmmmmmmmmVROOmmmmmmmmmm..."). In other words, cyclical.
What gives??
Edit: before you ask, engine mounts are brand new OEM.
Edit 2: Going to make a post in the ISF forum as this might be engine specific
Id suggest you get an HVAC vent temp gauge, w/2" dial. On a healthy system, 32°F is good. My 350 only goes to 38°F while my Tundra with a new compressor will flat out ice your hand at 29°F. I think most Toyota's do better than my 13 350 but few will buy a temp gauge to check it.
You can refresh the system by having it evacuated, replace the dryer (it's in condenser), and for $350 install a reman compressor, pull it down and charge it. This won't fix a bad Tx valve.
Lastly next time you take it in, do not use the AC for several days, nothing near defrost either, and check the static pressure on high and low sides. Then compare it to a lookup chart.
IIRC 70° F ambient should show 70psi which would indicate about the right charge for R134A.







