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Been doing more testing and nothing. I tried following this guide from this PDF and everything checks OK. Is there a possibility that the power button has gone bad? Is that a thing with these cars?
Been doing more testing and nothing. I tried following this guide from this PDF and everything checks OK. Is there a possibility that the power button has gone bad? Is that a thing with these cars?
I'd recommend you either make a Techstream TIS account for a few days or Im using www.alldatadiy.com
Both have schematics and troubleshooting guides for stuff like this. The TIS account is more thorough but expensive.
Do a search on this site for my name and
#2IS Electrical as I know I've posted the power branch for someone before and it wasn't that long ago. Last 4 months?
Finding that post would be beneficial to you. IIRC it might have been a parasitic draw issue.
I'd recommend you either make a Techstream TIS account for a few days or Im using www.alldatadiy.com
Both have schematics and troubleshooting guides for stuff like this. The TIS account is more thorough but expensive.
I'll consider that a last resort.
Do a search on this site for my name and
#2IS Electrical as I know I've posted the power branch for someone before and it wasn't that long ago. Last 4 months?
I tried looking and couldn't find anything.
Finding that post would be beneficial to you. IIRC it might have been a parasitic draw issue.
My issue was a loosely connected wire to the fuse box. You can test this easily by unbolting your fuse box from the engine bay and let it just hang there so there is no torque-side pressure on any of the wires/connectors. All the wires should be basically vertical as much as possible. I don’t recall which wire it was exactly, but it’s the one that others said powers all the electronic systems. I’m not sure the 250 is the same fuse box layout as the 350, but this was my starting/power issue.
QUOTE=Dukenukemx;11571963]I'll consider that a last resort.
Did something that I thought would not work, but I hooked up the Toyota TechStream software to the car and it was able to communicate and get codes. Everything under Gateway might be cause I have the stereo disconnected, because I have an aftermarket stereo hooked up and thought it maybe the cause. Not entirely sure, so for all I know there's a module called Gateway and it's bad. The Power Source Control seems to be where the real problems are at. B2289 and B2287. I think both those code are for the power control ECU, which I just replaced but it was used off Ebay so who knows. I also found this video where this guy had both my codes and had the same problem, but did some wiring to make it work. I can't understand a thing he's saying.
I also found this PDF that seems to be a procedure for having both these codes and how to fix it, but I found in on a Prius forum so I don't know if these diagrams apply for my 07 IS250. I also might try changing the AM2 and IG2 fuses like this guy did and see if I get to his point. Too bad there's no conclusion as to what he did if he got it working.
Of course the AM2 and IG2 fuses are good, because I already checked them, but I cleaned and greased them to make sure. Did more digging and this guy just unplugs the immobilizer module and the car comes back to life. Not the same Lexus but, I wanna try and see if I have a bad immobilizer. Where is it located on the 07 IS250?
Thanks. I did find the ID code module, and turns out it's in the dash, behind the defrost vent. That is the worst place to put it, but luckily I was half way there with all the stuff I had removed so far. I did disconnect the ID code reader and nothing still. Back to square one where I don't know what I'm doing.
Looking over the diagnostics pdf I found from a Prius forum, suggests the problem must exist between the Power ECU and the Transponder key ECU. I don't think the ID code reader is the transponder key ECU. That would be in the truck of the car. I wonder if that has gone bad, or most likely has corrosion in the connection and just needs to be cleaned? That's a tomorrow thing.
Thanks. I did find the ID code module, and turns out it's in the dash, behind the defrost vent. That is the worst place to put it, but luckily I was half way there with all the stuff I had removed so far. I did disconnect the ID code reader and nothing still. Back to square one where I don't know what I'm doing.
Looking over the diagnostics pdf I found from a Prius forum, suggests the problem must exist between the Power ECU and the Transponder key ECU. I don't think the ID code reader is the transponder key ECU. That would be in the truck of the car. I wonder if that has gone bad, or most likely has corrosion in the connection and just needs to be cleaned? That's a tomorrow thing.
Been raining for the past number of days and finally got a around to look at it. I wanted to attack the LIN1 wire but all I have is a document for a Prius, and it's not accurate for a 07 IS250. Did some more searching and a YouTuber who I can't understand their language just so happened to flash this image, which was enough for me to work with. I ran a long wire to test for continuity and it has very high resistance. So high that I gotta set the multi-meter in the thousands for it to pick up anything. I left my made up wire connected and the car starts. There's certainly a problem with a bad connection for the LIN1 wire, but now I gotta trace it and figure out where the bad connection is. MikeFig82 pdf will help with this, but I hooked up my
and the signal doesn't seem to go past the wire connector for the power ECU. I haven't tried from the key transponder ECU end to see where the break is yet. Kinda seems like the connector for the power ECU is just not conducting, but I haven't confirmed this. Does anyone happen to know where this LIN1 wire runs through?
Been raining for the past number of days and finally got a around to look at it. I wanted to attack the LIN1 wire but all I have is a document for a Prius, and it's not accurate for a 07 IS250. Did some more searching and a YouTuber who I can't understand their language just so happened to flash this image, which was enough for me to work with. I ran a long wire to test for continuity and it has very high resistance. So high that I gotta set the multi-meter in the thousands for it to pick up anything. I left my made up wire connected and the car starts. There's certainly a problem with a bad connection for the LIN1 wire, but now I gotta trace it and figure out where the bad connection is. MikeFig82 pdf will help with this, but I hooked up my short finder tool and the signal doesn't seem to go past the wire connector for the power ECU. I haven't tried from the key transponder ECU end to see where the break is yet. Kinda seems like the connector for the power ECU is just not conducting, but I haven't confirmed this. Does anyone happen to know where this LIN1 wire runs through?
I found this PDF a long time ago. As to where exactly. Could be on CL or just Google.
It's actually looks to be for a Toyota Camry. I'm sure it could help some. Since it has the same pin out as what you posted on the IS250 AWD from your screen shot. Scroll down until you see the diagram.
I found it. It's a purple wire that runs from the power ecu to the key ecu. You can see a section that turned white and bulging a little in the wire. I decided to scrape sections to try and isolate the break, which was around the car door pillar towards the front right door. I just cut it and soldered a new wire with shrink wrap. I don't do that butt connector crap. Car starts right away now. I haven't had time to put the interior together, which is going to be an ordeal. I do have to visit a tow truck company who has to fix my front bumper and right fender because they damaged it while towing it. They wanted the car working first before they could repair the damage.
