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Need help 04 is300 been sitting for 7 years has loss of voltage and won't drive
hey there I have my 04 is300 I've recently bought with only 64k original miles that has been sitting for 7 years and left sitting with problems. It previously had transmission issues I've been told and the transmission was replaced but still had issues I have a paper from when it was worked on from Lexus ill attach to here. Once I picked it up and took it home on trailer I put a new battery ,new radiator cause old one was so corroded, took out as much of the old gas that sat replaced it with new 91 octane gas I tried to start it and it fired right up with a lil squeaking coming from the belt along with a ticking noise from the air intake manifold where it mounts to the engine.the dash kept flashing my traction light and hasn't stopped doing that. I tried to drive it as soon as I pressed the brakes the car dropped rpms and went back to normal rpms I shifted to D it dropped voltage again and tried to move it after 6 ft the engine died. I turned it back on tried again same symptoms died out again the car idles perfectly fine in all gears. It then pulled a check engine light for MAF sensor I cleaned it and cleared code now the car idled better and sounded a lil better I tried to drive it and I forced more throttle this time and it drove and moved but then it started to bog out and stalled out loss complete power. I turned it back on drove it back to my driveway very boggy and then boom check engine four codes P0335(crankshaft position sensor A) P0340(camshaft position sensor a circuit bank 1 or single sensor P0617 (starter relay circuit high) P0705 (Transmission Range sensor a circuit(PRNDL input) ) all these codes popped up at once while I was driving and was checked at home. The problems I'm having is when the car is turned on it idles fine but as soon as I touch the brake pedal I get a loss of power rpms drop to 500rpm the car either almost dies or dies out this happens when I use the windshield wipers, the climate control unit, headlights, windows, when shifting the car into any gear. if I hold rpms and use any of these while holding it drops the rpms immediately. I tried driving the car around the block again it started driving then acted all boggy it was in drive but the dash kept lighting up that I was in reverse I pulled back into my driveway barely. Now I'm unsure what to do and stuck I just want it as a nice car to build on any help is appreciated thank you.
It sounds a lot like you have issues with either a battery or the alternator, like a dead or shorted battery cell. If you haven't replaced the battery that sat for 7 years, that would be what I would swap out immediately, the battery is there not only to store charge, but also to create a buffer for all the electrical systems, it doesn't allow the alternator to wreck the system if the voltage regulator goes out, and it also buffs out any voltage spikes and drops from high current systems. Driving with an old battery can cause some severe damage to the entire electrical system of the car, any car parts store can check the battery for free.
Considering that you were able to start the car all the times it stalled, it may suggest that the alternator is fine, but I wouldn't rely on it, especially after 7 years of sitting. After getting a different battery, try disconnecting the B+ terminal on the alternator, starting the car up and measuring the voltage between B+ terminal of the alternator and its housing, it should not be above 14-15 volts.
With all that done, see what changes, and what issues remain to deal with. Check the voltage with the car off and running, see if it stays stable with all the accessories like seat and glass heaters turned on to exclude a possibility of further issues in that area.
It sounds a lot like you have issues with either a battery or the alternator, like a dead or shorted battery cell. If you haven't replaced the battery that sat for 7 years, that would be what I would swap out immediately, the battery is there not only to store charge, but also to create a buffer for all the electrical systems, it doesn't allow the alternator to wreck the system if the voltage regulator goes out, and it also buffs out any voltage spikes and drops from high current systems. Driving with an old battery can cause some severe damage to the entire electrical system of the car, any car parts store can check the battery for free.
Considering that you were able to start the car all the times it stalled, it may suggest that the alternator is fine, but I wouldn't rely on it, especially after 7 years of sitting. After getting a different battery, try disconnecting the B+ terminal on the alternator, starting the car up and measuring the voltage between B+ terminal of the alternator and its housing, it should not be above 14-15 volts.
With all that done, see what changes, and what issues remain to deal with. Check the voltage with the car off and running, see if it stays stable with all the accessories like seat and glass heaters turned on to exclude a possibility of further issues in that area.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
it has a newer duralast 750 cca battery inside which works i have a battery tester and tested the battery and came back as good/low charge. Its not the alternator either cause the charging rate when i raised the rpms to 1500 for 15 sec for a test it came back with charging voltage 13.67
Its not the alternator either cause the charging rate when i raised the rpms to 1500 for 15 sec for a test it came back with charging voltage 13.67
You shouldn't need to raise the RPM to get that result, if it doesn't maintain above 13V at idle, you have alternator issues. Also try turning on all the accessories in the car and check the voltage again, it should still be close to 13V at idle.
You shouldn't need to raise the RPM to get that result, if it doesn't maintain above 13V at idle, you have alternator issues. Also try turning on all the accessories in the car and check the voltage again, it should still be close to 13V at idle.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
it was for a battery tester machine I have I did this test and the charging voltage was 13.67 so I’m assuming the alternator not my problem.
today I have it on jackstands in the air took off all wheels and turned the car on it idled fine and revs sounds healthy still having the pressing the brakes losing rpm problem but when I shifted to drive the back started to spin and then the car died out and I tried again where now it sent a check engine for two codes cam shaft sensor and crank shaft sensor
What about any rodent damage in the wiring? The amount of circuit related codes makes me wonder if there is indeed a wiring problem somewhere in the harness, here you can find Wiring Diagrams for your IS, try tracing the wiring for both sensors to the ECU.
When was the last time a Timing Belt was replaced, if ever? Check the timing marks to make sure that you won't cause any damage to the engine, and if the belt was never replaced after 7 years of sitting, I would strongly suggest doing so.
In the beginning you wrote that the voltage was dropping as more load started coming, is it still the case? I would still suggest to do a load test to see if the alternator is able to keep up, I wouldn't be surprised that there will be issues with it after so much time sitting.
How hard the brakes are? It sounds like a membrane or one of the valves in the brake booster got toast, causing a vacuum leak for the engine each time you press the brakes, which may be a cause for the RPM drop as you press the brakes. For the time being though, try disconnecting the vacuum line to the booster and flipping the return valve to cap it and prevent any vacuum leaks, see if that will make a difference.
What about any rodent damage in the wiring? The amount of circuit related codes makes me wonder if there is indeed a wiring problem somewhere in the harness, here you can find Wiring Diagrams for your IS, try tracing the wiring for both sensors to the ECU.
When was the last time a Timing Belt was replaced, if ever? Check the timing marks to make sure that you won't cause any damage to the engine, and if the belt was never replaced after 7 years of sitting, I would strongly suggest doing so.
In the beginning you wrote that the voltage was dropping as more load started coming, is it still the case? I would still suggest to do a load test to see if the alternator is able to keep up, I wouldn't be surprised that there will be issues with it after so much time sitting.
How hard the brakes are? It sounds like a membrane or one of the valves in the brake booster got toast, causing a vacuum leak for the engine each time you press the brakes, which may be a cause for the RPM drop as you press the brakes. For the time being though, try disconnecting the vacuum line to the booster and flipping the return valve to cap it and prevent any vacuum leaks, see if that will make a difference.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
there is no rodent damage. As i have more now done more test i have a tool called the power probe i am testing all my grounds the three in the engine bay and the however amount in the cabin when the car is off the grounds all read 0.0 v but once the car is on and i read the volts the engine grounds still read 0.0 but the body grounds and inside grounds all read anywhere between 1.4 v to. 2.0v. There is also a 12 v negative ground module behind the right of the glove back i checked and 1.7v is reading from there. When i touch the body with the tool it reads 1.7 v which is weird considering it should be ground.if i wanted to fix this issue with the brake booster should i replace the entire brake booster or also replace the master cylinder with a new one along with a new brake booster . Should i cheap out and get one from pick n pull or definitely get a new one ?? Thank u for your time and responding
For the booster, you can take it from the junkyard, there is no issue there, just make sure that it works.
As for the Master Cylinder, considering how long the car sat, I would really suggest to get a Rebuild Kit for it, brakes are not something to cheap out on, and while a little pricey, the kit in question is not too expensive. Part Number for it is 04493-53040.
The Ground Test you conducted may indicate an issue with the Ground straps between the Engine and the Body of a car, there should be several on both sides of an engine, and one coming straight from the Battery, they do tend to corrode and crumble.
On cars that sitted for very long, it's often recommended to change the harness, and the belt. In your case, repairing the transmission, having your battery swapped for a recent one, have the lower arm bushings checked and make sure your radiator isn't cracked. Check your tire making date, if they are older than 4 years, they are going outside their life expectency and you will very probably have a tire incident in short future. Make sure to put money aside to change it on short notice.
Also, I always drive around with an ignition coil as a life saving device. If they where never done, some will surely fail in a near future. To order and receive an ignition coil form Lexus, it will take you 3 weeks, and those where pre pandemic numbers.
12-05-22, 09:55 PM
Need help 04 is300 been sitting for 7 years has loss of voltage and won't drive
