bloodyj410

Stop and go acceleration hesitation(choke)
Codes: po125 insuffucient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control (changed cts) never erased code
po135 bank 1 sensor one o2 ,bought car with this cel can't be the issue it drove perfect with this code for 6k miles

98 1mzfe
I Start the car let it run for a couple mins. You can hear the flow of the engine at a consistent tone but every fifteen or so seconds you can hear it drop for a split second barley .(in park )... So let's put it in reverse then the consistent flow is still there but then suddenly few seconds after shifting into reverse the flow gives out. For a split second (vnnnnnn___vnnnn_vnn__vnnnnnnn_vnn) same thing as if I put it in drive , put in drive then Turn the wheel as soon as I turn the wheel to leave a parking spot and start pulling out there goes the skipping in the gas /exhaust/engine flow
It's almost like even pressing the brakes during getting out of a parking spot triggers it but it can't be since I'm having a power loss in quick acceleration ( same skip is messing up my acceleration more noticble while parked compared to driving I know that symptom is the heart of the problem and it's driving me nuts) almost like I have to roll into the correct speed and hit the gas at the right rpm (2k) in order fore to get a quicker acceleration without a pop/crack noise coming from the left front of the car .... wtf??? Only thing I've noticed is I cleaned all my intake housings and reconnected everything forgot to plug in the idle air control valve and. The problem was 200 percent more potent try to drive off And that pop would happen all the time when accelerating my car drove without it I had to make that pop noise a lot I had to make it back to my neighbor hood I was freaking out (I didn't know it was unplugged I thought the problem was haunting me and I was done for ) when I realized it was unplugged I thought for sure that's my problem. But at the same time I really don't know that's why I'm posting this .....

Making the problem worst includes :
Going steep uphill from stop
More weight in my car
Reverse while parked (causes the skip )
Turning the wheel in reverse or drive


Hitting the gas on the high way some times take two pushes the first slight push won't budge my rpm I have to do it a second time (I believe it's the skip I hear when starting the car that causes this acceleration issue but someone please help me )


Possible problems?
Idle air control valve??

Throttle position sensor???
Crankshaft position sensor ??

Crankshaft pully timing??? There's a scale on it it says a couple numbers mines sitting on 1.0 instead of zero????

Engine sludge?????

Left Axle not rotating strong enough ??



Can the idle air control valve create a acceleration skip problem from stop and go ? Or even just accelerating hard?

My two screws are stripped on the iacv

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

You should address your CEL first, and then try to diagnose your acceleration issue.

I recently had the P0125 in combination with P1155. It turned out to be a bad O2 sensor in Bank 2 Sensor 1.
Watching live data on my OBD2 scanner, I could see the old sensor being unresponsive and resulting in too much fuel being added to the engine.

If your O2 sensor is shot, it can cause the engine to run poorly and cause all types of acceleration issues.

bloodyj410

Is it safe to take it toyota or lexus ?? I would show them this whole post and a video of my engine flow giving out (by hearing it ) mechanics tell me
To ride it out I'm
So beyond pissed off I love my es 300 I won't let it go for **** ... I rather drive it than any accord or even the newer es'es the way it performed before this issue was beyond amazing head
To head to beat a 07 TL 0 to 60 and 03 civic si hatch lowered with bbs wheels from a 40/60 roll to 110 when he pussied out on a two lane street so many good times in this car I would hate to see it go for this stupid issue someone. Wil buy it for so cheap from me and fix it n it will **** on other cars


People tell me I'm crazy and it's the way I drive ..... I either drive real slow knowing my car can do what it always did n I drive it faster when I want

Now it's like I'm trying to show people the problem they think I'm insane they tell me drive slow ... It's not me trying to drive fast on purpose all the time it's me seeing that there's something off and pissed off about it how it's not the same as before ... So. U will c me horsing. The car. And be like u feel that or you hear that but only I feel the difference because I'm driving and I know how it was before I know how to trigger the problem and I know it is there and fixable someone knows what it is people just tell me sell the car other guy randomly saw me park started asking me questions told me it's one of the best engines used to work for lexus bla blaa I told him the issue he said fuel injector ? Told me not to sell it no matter what What the hell that's what I always presumed it was but they all click if I put a screw driver on it ....man life is crazy !! How does some random guy tell me not to sell my car that's exactly what I wanted and needed to hear ... The issue is the damn skipping won't stop I'm in lexus hell right now

jltait

Replace the fuel filter. I have a gut feeling about this. That and replacing the O2 sensor, plus cleaning the MAF for good measure may do the trick.

ES300doc

Exactly this. I don't think he's listening though.

ES300doc

Why start a new thread on this? I advised you that the idle air control valve can cause a hesitation on take off. You have been given the information requested on a previous thread to help you torward a successful repair, but did not follow through.
If one does not want to take their car to a trained technician for diagnostics because of cost, I can understand that. Once that decision has been made, you are left with replacing parts to try and solve the problem yourself.
I suggested you check and free up your idle air control valve. You advised the screws heads are now stripped. Solution now remaining is to replace the idle air control valve.
You have a coolant temp sensor code, this needs to be replaced since your not taking it to a technician for diagnosis, same for the bank one sensor one oxygen sensor.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

P0125 is actually not a coolant temp sensor code. I found that out while doing repairs to my car just recently. It's simply related to the other code that pops up. For example, I had a P0125 and a O2 sensor code. P0125 has to do with Closed Loop operation and temperature. My sensor had a bad heater circuit.

In short, do not touch the Coolant Temp Sensor.

p.s.: I can barely understand him, which makes me even more reluctant to help.

bloodyj410

wow i mean thanks for all the help trust me i do listen , my idle air control valve is stripped cant clean or change not too much money laying around right now and cant get it off to really thouroughly clean it, im sorry for being annoying,

its either the iacv,

the o2 sensor like you say which is throwing the temp code

and my last gues is exhaust leak causing loss of back pressure?


you all have been giving me good responses n i appreciate it i knew nothing about cars really until i started trying to diagnose this so plz cut me some slack im learning slow and i love the 1mzfe engine

ES300NZ

The 02 sensor failing will cause higher exhaust temps, and since the water system is linked up the exhaust that will raise water temps the 1mz-fe has a cast iron pass manifold which allows coolant to pass through the rear (firewall side) exhaust header to cool it down (since no airflow)

if the o2 codes show, replace both o2s immediately. The car will be like night and day, the o2's aren't just some 'sensor' they form a key part of the whole EFI system, if one fails or usually both are worn out (they are a consumable), then car no go well at all.

replacing sensors is always a good idea, replacing a water temp sensor isn't a bad investment at all.

Sometimes, the problem is so simple it's just easier to take the advice your given at stop thinking so much :P