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As much as I despise zip ties, they do come in handy. I've never though about making a separator for them though. That's brilliant! I still have a little more work to do on the abs relocation, like modifying the bracket extending the wiring as well as the last 2 hoses, but it should be taken car of tonight. I'll go ahead and mount the passenger header this evening and finish the drivers header.
debating on what type of exhaust muffler I want to run. Debating on running true dual 2.25" to x pipe into a 2x2.25" inlet 2x2.25" outlet muffler and have dual exit on the passenger side (similar to the 6.0 Pontiac GTO), but that'll wait to get the car running and all the bugs in the system situated first. Spoke with a couple others that have completed this swap, they state that the factory water temp gauge does not work with the uz ecu. Luckily for me I have a galaxy tab 2 (7") fitted to a factory nav display, I did this years ago and never touched it. so I'll combine that with my HKS ob link set up and have LFA style gauges on my center display panel. It'll work for now.
It'll display english too. What makes this even better is that I'll be using a JDM ecu, so all the obd codes can be read with this, and the Ecu is supported unlike the usdm ecu.
I'm at work right now and on lunch so, I'm researching how to bleed the IS300 ABS module without the TIS computer. I might just have to take it my buddy at the dealer to have him bleed the brakes if I can't find anything.
GS300 MAF- part number 22204-20010 (fits GS400, 1mzfe vehicles v6 camry etc, and GS300)
IS300 MAF- part number 22204-22010 (fits IS300, GS300, 3uzfe cars, 2gr engines)
The GS300 has 2 different mafs?
Reason I ask, my uz did not come with a MAF, I can source one easily whether it be a junkyard, ebay, parts car etc. I have an extra IS300 maf that came off the donor engine. Think my IS maf would work with the uz? both use the same connector, however they're different sizes.shapes).
Another reason is the intake on the uz engine. I have the factory resonator, but it does not have the port for the maf since it's one piece with the oem airbox.
Now this isn't a huge cause or concern if I'm going aftermarket intake, but sourcing the correct parts with lowest budget would be a nice bonus.
GS400 aftermarket intake with maf adapter for the 22204-20010 (gs300, gs400) maf= $194 plus $20 for a MAF (used).
Factory Gs400 intake with 22204-22010 (gs300, is300 maf) = Free.
98-00 GS300's & 400's use 22204-20010.
01-05 GS300's use 22204-22010.
01-05 GS430's use 22204-15010.
There was a difference in the ECU's between the 98-00 & 01-05 GS300's so I'm sure the MAF was different for that reason.
The GS300 ECU switched in 01 when the IS300 came out so the 01-05 GS300 MAF matches the 01-05 IS300 MAF.
If I remember correctly my 22204-20010 MAF on my GS400 was the same MAF that came with my Aristo swap.
Can't remember 100% though.
Finishing up the abs relocation tonight. Been sick with a sinus infection and December is the busiest time of the year at my work so I didn't have much time nor energy to spend wrenching.
I was looking through some posts about mounting the abs module and no one had a simple design. I've gone this far redesigning certain areas to be easily serviceable starter bolts, valve covers, and I'm continuing that trend. Behold my ghetto abs bracket.
All i did was drill the spot welds. Keeping just the u shaped bracket. Cut a piece of 14g steel as the base plate it will be welded to. I cut it large enough to fit in the battery tray. This way the battery will counterbalance the mass of the abs module. Simple design, functional, cheap. Ignore my bear claw meat hook of hand. I cut the steel plate to press fit in the tray so theres no slop or chance of it rattling. This was left over metal so its not completely covering the tray, but it was free so i cant complain Simple functional and when painted and clear coated it'll look damn near factory. This postioning will allow me to have the space for an odyssey and enough room to run a distribution box to run dual batteries.
More to come in a few.
Last night I finished up the abs mount, after painting it waiting for it to dry, and installing. got all the accessory lines taken care of as well as the passenger exhaust header.
These headers are barely clearing the frame rail on the passenger side, on the driver's side I might as well hang that idea up. The factory GS400 headers work but the last runner on the left bank (cylinder 7) is hitting the steering linkage, they'll both require modification to fit. I didn't take any pictures of them because I'm still debating on which one will be easier to use. I'm going to hack the 2uz header first tonight, in a attempt to make it work. If it doesn't I always have the OEM manifold to fall back on.
My ecu was just shipped today so hopefully it won't take as long to reach the US as it did to get to Russia.
debating on what type of exhaust muffler I want to run. Debating on running true dual 2.25" to x pipe into a 2x2.25" inlet 2x2.25" outlet muffler and have dual exit on the passenger side (similar to the 6.0 Pontiac GTO), but that'll wait to get the car running and all the bugs in the system situated first.
.
That's pretty much what I did on a 1uz cressida swap of mine but I added a resonator on each bank right after the x-pipe.
I gathered the 2.25" x-pipe and mandrel bends off ebay.
The 2uz headers do not fit without some serious tweaking, so that's what I'll be doing. I've come this far I'm not backing down now. As mentioned prior by yotatrip the 2uz headers do hit the frame rails especially on the drivers side. Passenger side is a very tight squeeze but it can be used with only minor cutting and welding ie the 3 bolt flange and extension of the elbow after the collector because it hits the firewall. The 2uz manzo style headers are a 4-1 style, this will not work, for the IS chassis. Here's what I'm looking at right now.
this was after the collector and 1st runner were cut. this image you can see the 4th runner (cyl #7) hitting the steering linkage, Cylinder 5 runner hitting and cylinder 3 runner getting very close to the frame rail (it actually clears the steering linkage between the frame and link) but this poses a different problem. this was the drivers side exhaust manifold on a rhd altezza across the sea. credit: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...ld-thread.html
as you can see in the images the 2uz header has to be completely reworked, it won't be as bad as it seems. Instead of it running a 4-1 style it will be converted to a 4-2-1.
my design (I haven't mocked it yet, tonight when I get off work), will be pretty easy to replicate and even better it will be serviceable. Current blueprints reveal I will take the runners from cyl #1 & #3 and they will merge just lateral of the motor mount (the motor mount I'm using a reference point as it sits right below the #3 cyl.
i know this the passenger side but we're looking at motor mount placement here.
I'm sure you probably can't see what my vision is yet. Cyl #1 will have a 90 degree from engine straight down (y axis) then another 90 facing rear (z axis), here it will merge with cyl #3 right at the motor mount. Here a slip join will be added. The rear 2 cylinders will have 90 elbows clocked at 315 degrees (using the unit circle as the reference here). It will put both rear runners behind the steering linkage where they will merge and have a slip joint. Here a mid pipe will connect the first runners slip joint, to the rear runners and they will form the collector. by my calculations and measurements the primary Oxygen sensor will be close to factory location.
My buddy took the lead on the headers. Neither one of us have fabricated headers from the flange back it's always been some minor reworking, this has really pushed our talents. Shown here is a mock up of what needs to be done in order to fit the is chassis. The runners were tacked into place
Special thanks to speedway motors for shipping these quick! Ordered 3 of these
As you can see they all clear the steering linkage. In order to finish the rest of the header, the steering column might have to be pulled but I'm going to try to do it without that. Hopefully we'll get these finished up soon. As for the collector, I've been researching how to weld it properly, I think for now I'll go with this $70 shipped.
This is a slip fit collector 1.75" OD primary 14g steel wall thickness .083" and a 2.5" exit. my other header has a 2.25" outlet but I think that'll change.
My runners are currently 1.5"OD 16g steel. Hopefully I did my math correct. 1.7" OD - (0.083" x 2) = 1.584 - 1.5"= .084 (2.133 mm gap) leaving rough 1mm gap between the primary to header. Use some copper RTV antiseize to help seal the seams and it should be a nice foundation for an exhaust.
ECU finally came in I'm now using a JDM celsior VVTi ECU (No Evap, no secondary O2 sensors, immobilizer reprogrammed for my keys, and at emu installed).
I still haven't pulled the trigger on the slip fit collectors. After researching issues and horror stories people on the LS forums have had with them, I think I'll go with a weld on collector. Yes they're a little more involved on the fabrication, at least they'll be leak proof.
I really wish I knew how to weld. I think I'll take a vocational welding course this summer.
Coneeng.com I recently found this website and haven't seen too many reviews on it, but the prices are reasonable and they only allow phone orders, which is a plus.
I scrapped the slip fit collector idea (so much for serviceability), and opted for a weld in type collector. They offer everything to custom fabricate a collector which is great.
now I'm faced with another choice. Either go with the standard 4-1 1.5"OD 2.5" weld on stacked collector, or a 4-1 1.75" 2.5" Flat collector. hmm....
stacked FlatI'm trying to keep this as serviceable as possible but with a little added performance.
If I were to get the stacked collector I would also opt in for the "turbo star" which is required, and a cast 304 stainless steel merge bullet or spike whatever you want to call it, it's optional.
I ordered the 4-1 flat collectors yesterday, they won't arrive until monday or tuesday next week so I'll be finishing the block hugger headers then. I did get my ECU in a few weeks ago it's considerably heavier than the oem one, at emulator installed, secondary o2 sensors bypass= No DTCs for engine related components. As for the battery relocation I went ahead and ordered 1/0 AWG NVX wire. Sonicelectronix had a 50ft spool for $149. True AWG OFC and silver tinned. This was the best quality and price I could find. I believe JL audio 1/0 was $400.
check out his commercial blog
https://www.drive2.ru/o/ALL4SWAP 0/1 power feed to a 3 way distribution block. I decided to run an additional 4g wire (in red) from the alternator to the distribution block to help increase alternator efficiency. I ran an extra alternator wire on my daily IS300 to compensate for the 1500w amplifier. Instead of running a 250a anl fuse near the relocated battery I opted in for a circuit breaker. This stinger SGP90250 has received decent reviews and also eliminates the need to crimp 0g wire; that can be a little stubborn.
As for the grounds, I'll be running 3. One in the rear for the battery, 2 on the engine for chassis and frame rail. I think it should suffice.
Been a few weeks since I last updated, haven't worked on the car in over a week, been too sick to do much of anything. Work is busy the last week of the month so there's that.
I still haven't welded the header debating on using the factory manifold and modify it to fit, but I'll decide on that tonight.
I did finish the battery relocation (will take pics and post tonight). It actually came out much better than I anticipated. I barely lost any trunk space, the box kinda blends into the trunk area, and I was still able to keep my spare tire and tools in factory location. Had to trim some interior panels to help clear the box, I've lost the cargo net D-hooks, but I didn't have one and never used it anyway.
Anyone ever crimp 1/0 AWG wire? It sucks. So I minimized the amount of crimps I had to make by running compression fitting type terminals. They look cleaner and were inexpensive
While I'm trying to decide on which driver's header style to go with, I did decide to do a mock fit of the wiring harness in the engine bay and power everything up (I have to bleed the abs box, and needed power to do so). Good thing too. When I installed the new mpi filters and o rings for the injectors I didn't install the injectors properly. Didn't break anything but I installed them opposite of what TIS recommends. I assumed they were like JZ injectors where you insert the injector int he fuel rail first then to the manifold. NOPE. install in manifold first then the fuel rail.
Remember the issues I was having with the starter gear and flexplate flywheel stack combination? I went ahead and bumped the starter over to make sure there was no interference with the starter engagement (remember the starter is a PITA to replace with the adapter plate installed, even with the bolt mod). NO issues! everything sounds great.
I did order my exhaust components. Did a little research on which muffler size in/out diameter etc. Decided on the magnaflow 11385 4x9 oval dual 2.25" in/out. ordered 2x jones resonators (2.25"), 2.25" x pipe for improved scavenging. I'm hoping it won't be too loud. I really like the look of double walled exhaust tips and running dual double walled tips on the side of the IS suits my style. Mine won't be polished like this, they're a titanium black color.
Some don't like it, I really do. plus I won't have to run dual mufflers and worry about cutting up my spare tire well to fit the exhaust.
Anyway that's all for now, nothing really major updated, just finishing up odds and ends. All the hard stuff is done and I'm dragging behind schedule with this swap. It should have been finished months ago. Still a ways to go.
I still need to figure out the ac lines. I've never messed with AC fittings before, but with a little patience I found a website that will allow me to custom make my own or I can just pay the local hose shop.
Oh yeah I registered for a summer welding course at the local community college. I feel as though it's going to be need in the next few months. Custom headers anyone?
3/5 Did some odds and ends today. Installed wiring harness. There's about 10 more wires that need to be integrated for everything to function.
Header is being finished by an exhaust shop. Just found it easier to pay them to tig weld it for me.
I'm still solving my ac line issue, but I've got an idea. I'll follow up with that Tuesday when I have the day off.
as for the intake I used a 1999 camry v6 intake from ebay. The weapon R gs400 intake is almost $200, the camry intake was $35. I also purchased a 3" 45 degree pipe. Of course I needed to do a little trimming but it came out pretty good.
Now I'm off to find an engine cover, and some is250 seats. I can refresh the interior whIle I'm waiting on the rest of the parts to arrive.
Eh I'll make a 4-1 custom header one day. I did pick up a 3uzfe that jumped timing. Great news now is that I have an engine I can mock up exhaust manifolds with. I can sell some parts off of it to limit my expenses. Hooray low cost R&D.
anyway I decided I'll hold off on the custom header and use the factory uz vvti manifold. After a thinking and doing some measuring the factory exhaust will work with minor work. Check it out.
Test fit after mod Clamping for extra low clearance About 1.5cm cut out Before clamping, there's no tension hence the extra gap. Factory header
I'm not going with the 3 bolt flange I cut both off because they're too close to the adapter. I'll have about 4" length 2.25" tubing welded on then use a band clamp to secure the headers to exhaust. Finishing this tonight then I'll get the ecu installed and fire it up.
Just gonna throw this out there F this header, what a PITA.
Factory gs400/ls400 vvti header.
my modified factory header. Its not pretty but it wraps behind the steering linkage, and the band clamps will work well with this design. It also gives plenty of clearance from fuel and brake lines. The downside: its not easily serviceabl and the studs must be replaced with class 10.9 bolts.
I had to remove the steering linkage (which isnt terrible) to install. It was mocked when the steering linkage was in place to allow proper clearance, but what a pain.
I had a local business "thermoking" make my ac lines. I had them crimp one side and leave the other uncrimped to allow me to position the lines properly.
the last parts have been completed. Installation tomorrow when I get off work.
I still need to figure how to bleed the abs module without a TIS computer.
I've got all the components for my exhaust set up. 2x 2.25" resonators 1x 2.25" X-pipe & magnaflow 11385 muffler. I also orderes some inexpensive black titanium tips.
12-28-16, 10:14 AM
