Hi All,

we just picked up a 2001 IS300 sportcross from a family member. We are told... a blown head gasket

We have retired uncle Steve on duty to break it down and get'r going. He will visit daily and use our tools. He will tackle anything.

The question is

??? Workshop Manual... Video.. Spec Sheets... Schematic... Tips... Warnings... Etc ???

!!! Thanks in advance !!!

 

Warning……The cylinder head is massive and weighs a ton. Honestly you can buy a low mileage engine used for around $700-$800 and not have to mess with all the machine work required to do a head gasket.

 

^^ What toyota pro said... or http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-CHASER-2-5L-I-6-TURBO-VVTi-ENGINE-AUTO-TRANSMISSION-LOOM-ECU-JDM-1JZGTE-/171060163388?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d3faf33c&vxp=mtr

 

Huh?

Head gaskets aren't that hard to do in our cars at all...

I'd rather do a head gasket than a motor pull any day, I've done both multiple times on IS and GS's and the only pain in the butt was the fact the IS had ARP Studs which have to be removed in order to pull the head off - the head sits slightly under the cowl and ARP studs don't allow you to lift it straight up far enough...

Tips:

keep the upper intake manifold, y, and throttle body all as one piece - it comes off nicely together

pin the timing belt tensioner - careful - the hole doesn't always line up - before you remove it - that way you don't have to put it in a vice to compress it (less of a risk of ruining it too)...

replace timing belt (Gates belts are cheap, $20), Felpro MLS head gasket is identical to stock, $65, intake and exhaust gaskets are steel and reusable so long as you don't damage them

careful with timing marks - there are two sets of timing marks, one set is TDC, the other is 15 degrees off, which makes it less likely to damage the valves while setting the timing belt on

might not be a bad idea to replace the water pump since you are there already

the head isn't that bad weight wise, I move them around all the time by myself - careful when putting it back in place - the dowels that are in the block that it lines up with can do some serious damage to the sealing surface if you don't get the head on right and end up sliding it around to line it up...

clean up top of block - don't use any wire wheels or rotary tools - do it by hand and use very fine sandpaper and use engine oil as lubricant - use a sanding block to keep surface flat... use ATF in bowls of pistons to dissolve carbon buildup - open oil drain plug and flush oil drains along block with lots of carb or brake cleaner - turn lower end by hand - the piston rings will push up any debris - wipe this up as well with brake or carb cleaner as well... not a bad idea to take a good metal straight edge and see how flat it is against the block, front to back along both sides over the head bolt holes, and then also diagonal both ways... if there is more than 2 thousandths, the block will need surfaced as well, though that is highly unlikely given it is cast iron...

get a tap or thread die to clean out threads for head bolts in block - clean threads, use brake clean to flush, then compressed air to blow out everything else...

ARP studs are not much more cost than factory head bolts which can be reused if measured, but not a great idea - ARPs are almost indefinitely reusable

the head gasket can go on 4 different ways, but only one works...

if I think of anything else, I'll be sure to add here...

 

oh, if you PM me your email address, I can send you the Lexus and Toyota service manuals as well


OMG, ONE MORE THING - VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!

the valve caps - the half dollar sized pieces the cams push down on... find a secure spot and pull them out one at a time and label them front to back, intake and exhaust... if you do not do this, you will spend 2-4 hours trying to match them with where they are supposed to go based on clearances between them and the cam lobes... thats if you can even get them back to the right spots at all - it is such a huge pain... also, make sure if the machine shop does a valve job when they surface the head, that they measure valve stem heights and get them back to where they were...

the cam caps - these have to go back in the right order and the right orientation as well - just take a good picture first - they are numbered with arrows...

use lots of assembly lube on the cams and valve caps...

one last thing - what caused the head gasket to give???

 

Hello I'm new to the thread and look forward to it.
Im planning on tackling this head can you send me a manual that would help me alot. Thanx

 

Does anyone know a shop or members that do work on our cars in San Diego area? I may need this job for my IS300 soon.

I picked this up used for a good price and noticed there are some oil sign sipping out of the passenger side top intake?

 

Re: userguides and manuals. Can I get a copy of the userguide and manuals you mentioned. I'm in the process of replacing a head gasket on an 05 is300 and it would be a great help to have them as reference. Thanks in advance and for sharing.

 

I just removed the head on this 05. While loosening the head bolts 3 of them where real loose not torqued to spec. It had a metallic gasket that looks ok. Most of the cylinders are full of oil. Any suggestions?

 

I'm about to pull the head and would love for you to send me the service manual. My email is rbryant8@live.com. Thank you.

 

Hey boss could you send this to me? Devongrave2025@gmail.com

 

My blew when my car over heated when the water pump went out any suggestions???

 

Hey boss, could you please share manuals? I appreciate that.
Also, alldatadiy doesn't have lots of repair steps, but I can share stuff in case anyone needs em...

 

The factory service manual is online.
http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/10/200...ervice-manual/

 

Does the 2005 service manual work still for a 2001 is300 ?