Questions regarding specifics about 2JZ-GTE swap......
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Questions regarding specifics about 2JZ-GTE swap......
Hey new to the forum, I have a 2002 is300 and I'm interested in doing a 2JZ-GTE swap. I've read up on the "how to's" but they are very vauge on some specifics. So my question is what will work from the 2JZ-GTE in the is300, things such as the ECU, the wiring harness, and what about the gauge cluster will it still work with the 2JZ-GTE or will I have to change that over as well? Also I want to swap it from an auto transmission to a manual. So what would have to be modified or changed in order for that to work also?
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Read many builds on people doing a swap. If you know what your doing go for it. Buying the GTE motor can be risky, therefore it would have to be re-built anyways. Just rebuild the GE motor with GTE interal and do a FFIM manifold and be set. As far as the ECU, if u do a trans swap u just need the manual trans to make it run without codes.
#4
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Read many builds on people doing a swap. If you know what your doing go for it. Buying the GTE motor can be risky, therefore it would have to be re-built anyways. Just rebuild the GE motor with GTE interal and do a FFIM manifold and be set. As far as the ECU, if u do a trans swap u just need the manual trans to make it run without codes.
The main risk involved with swapping GTE is that you have no idea what the condition of the motor is in when you purchase it...Sure importers can claim only 20,000 miles, but you won't know, without a reasonable doubt, how many miles are on it nor the condition the internals. A member from my.IS purchased an imported JDM GTE block from an importer, little did he know that the motor was blown and needed a rebuild which doubled the amount spent that could have easily been put into rebuilding and turboing the GE he already had. Secondly, there are certain GTE blocks that are harder to swap than others, off the top of my head I can tell you for a fact GTE's w/VVTI are easier than GTE non-VVTI wiring wise. I know only 1 person on all of my.IS who has successfully swapped over a GTE no-VVTI motor into his IS running on a standalone ECU (MAP ECU) and he still doesn't have 100% functionability, it drives but still has codes. Also, certain years have slightly different motor mount locations making it a hassle as well. I don't know the years off of the top of my head, but I know for certain that it is a fact.
I had my GE rebuilt after I blew it up. But I have peace of mind now knowing that it had 0 miles, brand new gaskets/seals, new belts, new waterpump/thermostat, etc and upgraded GTE internals, ARP headstuds...the list goes on. I spent about the same amount as I would have spent on buying a GTE and getting it swapped for me. Didn't have to worry about wiring cause it was the original motor w/original harness...Idk, to me it's a no brainer.
Also as far as trans swap goes, 02msmt is not 100% accurate. If you want to have a working speedometer and no CELs then you need to mess with the engine harness in order to make the ecu happy with swapping in a manual trans. The plugs on the manual trans are different/missing from the ones on the ae650e e-shift trans. This is because the speed sensor is located on the e-shift trans while the manual trans has no speed sensor on it. Manual IS300's get their speed sensor pulse from the ABS ECU located under the steering column. I made a DIY on my.IS with the wiring info on how to get your speedo working properly and reverse lights turning on when in reverse.
What are your power goals? The w55 trans (stock IS300 5-speed) trans is known to be weak. Many people have blown their w55's over 350hp, though a handful of people haven't had such bad luck either...It all depends on how you drive, dropping the clutch and abusing the trans will obviously put too much stress on it. But if you can drive like a normal person and keep your fast and furious racing to rolling starts (vs racing from a dig) then you should, theoretically, be safe over 350hp. I myself have a very custom, and proven, clutch/flywheel setup to hold over 500hp when I eventually put my turbo kit back on. But most people who upgrade their transmissions opt for 3 different setups. w58, 5-speed almost as weak as the w55 and in my opinion, not worth the swap because I wouldn't consider it an upgrade. r154, 5-speed much stronger than w-series trans, holds decent amount of power ~500-600hp but I hear sucks at shifting because of it's extremely long throw (it's a truck transmission). Also the r154 will need a lot of custom/fabrication in order to make it work: 1jz bellhousing, custom driveshaft, wiring, trans mount, etc. Finally, V160/V161 Getrag trans...the best of the best. This transmission is the most expensive, and requires just about as much work as the r154 swap, but it will hold well up to +1000hp with no problems.
GTE non-VVTI threads:
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-floor...eo-pg3-432134/
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-groun...4-11-a-435640/
Auto to manual trans wiring write up:
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-auto-ma...ometer-443995/
Ultimate r154 swap thread:
http://my.is/forums/f114/r154-ultima...thread-379074/
Hope this helps...CL is a cool forum, but my.IS has much more information and knowledge to offer. Just make sure you do your part and research before starting threads like this, not everyone will be as nice as I am.
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Cool, I was wondering if I should buy a GTE or just rebuild my GE with GTE internals. Im most likely going to rebuild it. Especially since I am aiming for relatively low numbers (350hp range). Going to obviously read up more, but thanks for the start!
+1 on rebuilding instead of swapping GTE. All you're getting out of a GTE is oil squirters in the block that the GE doesn't have.
The main risk involved with swapping GTE is that you have no idea what the condition of the motor is in when you purchase it...Sure importers can claim only 20,000 miles, but you won't know, without a reasonable doubt, how many miles are on it nor the condition the internals. A member from my.IS purchased an imported JDM GTE block from an importer, little did he know that the motor was blown and needed a rebuild which doubled the amount spent that could have easily been put into rebuilding and turboing the GE he already had. Secondly, there are certain GTE blocks that are harder to swap than others, off the top of my head I can tell you for a fact GTE's w/VVTI are easier than GTE non-VVTI wiring wise. I know only 1 person on all of my.IS who has successfully swapped over a GTE no-VVTI motor into his IS running on a standalone ECU (MAP ECU) and he still doesn't have 100% functionability, it drives but still has codes. Also, certain years have slightly different motor mount locations making it a hassle as well. I don't know the years off of the top of my head, but I know for certain that it is a fact.
I had my GE rebuilt after I blew it up. But I have peace of mind now knowing that it had 0 miles, brand new gaskets/seals, new belts, new waterpump/thermostat, etc and upgraded GTE internals, ARP headstuds...the list goes on. I spent about the same amount as I would have spent on buying a GTE and getting it swapped for me. Didn't have to worry about wiring cause it was the original motor w/original harness...Idk, to me it's a no brainer.
Also as far as trans swap goes, 02msmt is not 100% accurate. If you want to have a working speedometer and no CELs then you need to mess with the engine harness in order to make the ecu happy with swapping in a manual trans. The plugs on the manual trans are different/missing from the ones on the ae650e e-shift trans. This is because the speed sensor is located on the e-shift trans while the manual trans has no speed sensor on it. Manual IS300's get their speed sensor pulse from the ABS ECU located under the steering column. I made a DIY on my.IS with the wiring info on how to get your speedo working properly and reverse lights turning on when in reverse.
What are your power goals? The w55 trans (stock IS300 5-speed) trans is known to be weak. Many people have blown their w55's over 350hp, though a handful of people haven't had such bad luck either...It all depends on how you drive, dropping the clutch and abusing the trans will obviously put too much stress on it. But if you can drive like a normal person and keep your fast and furious racing to rolling starts (vs racing from a dig) then you should, theoretically, be safe over 350hp. I myself have a very custom, and proven, clutch/flywheel setup to hold over 500hp when I eventually put my turbo kit back on. But most people who upgrade their transmissions opt for 3 different setups. w58, 5-speed almost as weak as the w55 and in my opinion, not worth the swap because I wouldn't consider it an upgrade. r154, 5-speed much stronger than w-series trans, holds decent amount of power ~500-600hp but I hear sucks at shifting because of it's extremely long throw (it's a truck transmission). Also the r154 will need a lot of custom/fabrication in order to make it work: 1jz bellhousing, custom driveshaft, wiring, trans mount, etc. Finally, V160/V161 Getrag trans...the best of the best. This transmission is the most expensive, and requires just about as much work as the r154 swap, but it will hold well up to +1000hp with no problems.
GTE non-VVTI threads:
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-floor...eo-pg3-432134/
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-groun...4-11-a-435640/
Auto to manual trans wiring write up:
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-auto-ma...ometer-443995/
Ultimate r154 swap thread:
http://my.is/forums/f114/r154-ultima...thread-379074/
Hope this helps...CL is a cool forum, but my.IS has much more information and knowledge to offer. Just make sure you do your part and research before starting threads like this, not everyone will be as nice as I am.
The main risk involved with swapping GTE is that you have no idea what the condition of the motor is in when you purchase it...Sure importers can claim only 20,000 miles, but you won't know, without a reasonable doubt, how many miles are on it nor the condition the internals. A member from my.IS purchased an imported JDM GTE block from an importer, little did he know that the motor was blown and needed a rebuild which doubled the amount spent that could have easily been put into rebuilding and turboing the GE he already had. Secondly, there are certain GTE blocks that are harder to swap than others, off the top of my head I can tell you for a fact GTE's w/VVTI are easier than GTE non-VVTI wiring wise. I know only 1 person on all of my.IS who has successfully swapped over a GTE no-VVTI motor into his IS running on a standalone ECU (MAP ECU) and he still doesn't have 100% functionability, it drives but still has codes. Also, certain years have slightly different motor mount locations making it a hassle as well. I don't know the years off of the top of my head, but I know for certain that it is a fact.
I had my GE rebuilt after I blew it up. But I have peace of mind now knowing that it had 0 miles, brand new gaskets/seals, new belts, new waterpump/thermostat, etc and upgraded GTE internals, ARP headstuds...the list goes on. I spent about the same amount as I would have spent on buying a GTE and getting it swapped for me. Didn't have to worry about wiring cause it was the original motor w/original harness...Idk, to me it's a no brainer.
Also as far as trans swap goes, 02msmt is not 100% accurate. If you want to have a working speedometer and no CELs then you need to mess with the engine harness in order to make the ecu happy with swapping in a manual trans. The plugs on the manual trans are different/missing from the ones on the ae650e e-shift trans. This is because the speed sensor is located on the e-shift trans while the manual trans has no speed sensor on it. Manual IS300's get their speed sensor pulse from the ABS ECU located under the steering column. I made a DIY on my.IS with the wiring info on how to get your speedo working properly and reverse lights turning on when in reverse.
What are your power goals? The w55 trans (stock IS300 5-speed) trans is known to be weak. Many people have blown their w55's over 350hp, though a handful of people haven't had such bad luck either...It all depends on how you drive, dropping the clutch and abusing the trans will obviously put too much stress on it. But if you can drive like a normal person and keep your fast and furious racing to rolling starts (vs racing from a dig) then you should, theoretically, be safe over 350hp. I myself have a very custom, and proven, clutch/flywheel setup to hold over 500hp when I eventually put my turbo kit back on. But most people who upgrade their transmissions opt for 3 different setups. w58, 5-speed almost as weak as the w55 and in my opinion, not worth the swap because I wouldn't consider it an upgrade. r154, 5-speed much stronger than w-series trans, holds decent amount of power ~500-600hp but I hear sucks at shifting because of it's extremely long throw (it's a truck transmission). Also the r154 will need a lot of custom/fabrication in order to make it work: 1jz bellhousing, custom driveshaft, wiring, trans mount, etc. Finally, V160/V161 Getrag trans...the best of the best. This transmission is the most expensive, and requires just about as much work as the r154 swap, but it will hold well up to +1000hp with no problems.
GTE non-VVTI threads:
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-floor...eo-pg3-432134/
http://my.is/forums/f219/built-groun...4-11-a-435640/
Auto to manual trans wiring write up:
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-auto-ma...ometer-443995/
Ultimate r154 swap thread:
http://my.is/forums/f114/r154-ultima...thread-379074/
Hope this helps...CL is a cool forum, but my.IS has much more information and knowledge to offer. Just make sure you do your part and research before starting threads like this, not everyone will be as nice as I am.
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#8
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If you're only aiming for 350hp you could get away with boosting the GE and just doing ARP head studs and GTE headgasket...obviously with supporting fuel mods and ensuring that your motor is in good condition.
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Cool, yeah Im not trying to have the fastest thing on the streets around my way but 350 seems reasonable. Basically my goal is this, 350hp nothing crazy like in the 4's and be able to drive the car whenever I want to and not have it down for months because "Racecar" lol So I figured that its a relatively "safe" number for our cars. We'll see how it ends up.
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what up fellas?! I'm new to the Forum ... Well had to make a new profile and need my 30 post before I can actually post stuff up, dammit!!! So reviving some old treads here haha!
I'm in the same predicament with my IS original manual GE swap but has over 200k. Is the GTE that much of a hassle? I've been reading up that the Aisin AR5 trans (that's dirt cheap) and possibly Aisin AY6 trans (that's a 6 spd) will work with the 2JZ. I will be selling my 2JZE setup as well and swapping out for the 2JZGTE setup. Any insight guys?!
I'm in the same predicament with my IS original manual GE swap but has over 200k. Is the GTE that much of a hassle? I've been reading up that the Aisin AR5 trans (that's dirt cheap) and possibly Aisin AY6 trans (that's a 6 spd) will work with the 2JZ. I will be selling my 2JZE setup as well and swapping out for the 2JZGTE setup. Any insight guys?!
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