I have a 2JZGE
I was driving home one day and I turned into my neighborhood and suddenly my car lost power and throttle response. I got the car to a stop. Car did not want to turn on again. Crank but no start. And I replaced the fuel pump because the car has died out on me with running out of gas. I towed it home and started checking the battery and alternator and checked out fine. I checked the spark plugs and coils which were only one year old NGK plugs and wires. Replaced alternator last year. Battery is red too Optima or the year. I inspected the ignition coils and spark plugs which checked out fine. I have a good battery and everything seems connected back to normal. The throttle cable and throttle body I suspect and have not checked any TPS sensor. MAF sensor is new. Im unsure whether it’s my throttle cable that I don’t have adjuster correct or something because I don’t get much response from the gas pedal and the car would turn over a few and finally start. The gas I would say has been in the tank for 4 months so I’m insured if it’s considered still ‘good’. I installed a K&N intake with heat shield today which I was suspecting my aftermarket intake that I had previous wasn’t cutting it, or maybe was the problem. But I still can’t get the car to stay on or getting response from the accelerator pedal. I am posting this with videos because I would get a check engine light when the car bogs down to zero on the tachometer. I haven’t checked fuel pressure yet but can hear the pump on when the car is staying on for like a few seconds. Even on the cranks where it didn’t want to start I can hear the pump behind me working so I don’t think it’s an issue with that. I’m running out of ideas on what else to check and am getting worried. I haven’t checked the timing either but it was just running fine since I bought the vehicle 4 years ago. I checked the slack on the APPS and where the throttle cable connects to the sensor and seems like I have it on right.
Even as I would turn the APPS and hear the throttle body valve open and close, I wouldn’t get any response from the engine or even from the throttle pedal so I’m just confused if I have broken something. I appreciate everyone’s knowledge and suggestions.
https://youtube.com/shorts/r6ZwpvFY3RY?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/r6ZwpvFY3RY?feature=share
I was driving home one day and I turned into my neighborhood and suddenly my car lost power and throttle response. I got the car to a stop. Car did not want to turn on again. Crank but no start. And I replaced the fuel pump because the car has died out on me with running out of gas. I towed it home and started checking the battery and alternator and checked out fine. I checked the spark plugs and coils which were only one year old NGK plugs and wires. Replaced alternator last year. Battery is red too Optima or the year. I inspected the ignition coils and spark plugs which checked out fine. I have a good battery and everything seems connected back to normal. The throttle cable and throttle body I suspect and have not checked any TPS sensor. MAF sensor is new. Im unsure whether it’s my throttle cable that I don’t have adjuster correct or something because I don’t get much response from the gas pedal and the car would turn over a few and finally start. The gas I would say has been in the tank for 4 months so I’m insured if it’s considered still ‘good’. I installed a K&N intake with heat shield today which I was suspecting my aftermarket intake that I had previous wasn’t cutting it, or maybe was the problem. But I still can’t get the car to stay on or getting response from the accelerator pedal. I am posting this with videos because I would get a check engine light when the car bogs down to zero on the tachometer. I haven’t checked fuel pressure yet but can hear the pump on when the car is staying on for like a few seconds. Even on the cranks where it didn’t want to start I can hear the pump behind me working so I don’t think it’s an issue with that. I’m running out of ideas on what else to check and am getting worried. I haven’t checked the timing either but it was just running fine since I bought the vehicle 4 years ago. I checked the slack on the APPS and where the throttle cable connects to the sensor and seems like I have it on right.
Even as I would turn the APPS and hear the throttle body valve open and close, I wouldn’t get any response from the engine or even from the throttle pedal so I’m just confused if I have broken something. I appreciate everyone’s knowledge and suggestions.
https://youtube.com/shorts/r6ZwpvFY3RY?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/r6ZwpvFY3RY?feature=share
Hello,
New MAF sensor? That would be my main suspect, it is very rare to see an actual new OEM MAF sensor out there, especially if you bought it off of eBay or Amazon, and OEM is the only one I would personally trust, as it is a very precise component. If you still have your old one, I would try putting it in to see if it helps, if not, get a Used OEM off of known running car, you can find one on eBay for a relatively good price.
For any further diagnostics, you will need to get a scan tool capable of reading Engine Live Data, otherwise you are just guessing. Check all the main parameters, like MAF and Temperature sensor readouts, as well as Ignition Advance and Short Term Fuel Trims.
The fact that spark plugs look good doesn't always mean they are good. Depending on where you got the Plugs and Coils, it may help to check the Spark Strength with a tool like this one, a good coil with wire should be able to strike through 8-10mm of air.
You are not supposed to hear a Pump running when you crank the car, I can't at least, even though my 2000 ES300 runs great, I am assuming you do know that it operates only when the engine is cranking. I am not sure if you still have the Return line, if so, try taking it off to see if there is fuel in it, considering that a Pressure Regulator is a pretty robust unit, it will indicate that you have enough pressure in the system.
At least from my experience, K&N low resistance filters, or any aftermarket intake systems for that matter, are not something I would use, since they trade flow resistance for the quality of filtered air. It is fine if you are primarily driving around the highway, but can pose a considerable risk if you drive around rural or gravel roads, not to mention that there is really no benefit from using it, you will not be able to feel such a minute bump in performance, even if there is any.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
New MAF sensor? That would be my main suspect, it is very rare to see an actual new OEM MAF sensor out there, especially if you bought it off of eBay or Amazon, and OEM is the only one I would personally trust, as it is a very precise component. If you still have your old one, I would try putting it in to see if it helps, if not, get a Used OEM off of known running car, you can find one on eBay for a relatively good price.
For any further diagnostics, you will need to get a scan tool capable of reading Engine Live Data, otherwise you are just guessing. Check all the main parameters, like MAF and Temperature sensor readouts, as well as Ignition Advance and Short Term Fuel Trims.
The fact that spark plugs look good doesn't always mean they are good. Depending on where you got the Plugs and Coils, it may help to check the Spark Strength with a tool like this one, a good coil with wire should be able to strike through 8-10mm of air.
You are not supposed to hear a Pump running when you crank the car, I can't at least, even though my 2000 ES300 runs great, I am assuming you do know that it operates only when the engine is cranking. I am not sure if you still have the Return line, if so, try taking it off to see if there is fuel in it, considering that a Pressure Regulator is a pretty robust unit, it will indicate that you have enough pressure in the system.
At least from my experience, K&N low resistance filters, or any aftermarket intake systems for that matter, are not something I would use, since they trade flow resistance for the quality of filtered air. It is fine if you are primarily driving around the highway, but can pose a considerable risk if you drive around rural or gravel roads, not to mention that there is really no benefit from using it, you will not be able to feel such a minute bump in performance, even if there is any.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
8th Gear
Did you change the entire fuel pump assembly? I mean pump and the white plastic that holds the pump (which that has the fuel filter in it)
No I did not just the pump itself. Didn’t change the filter
8th Gear
Quote:
Okay, before changing that, bypass fuel pump relay or get someone to prime the pump by turning the key and see if you have any pressure at the rail, if you dont, most likely your filter is clogged afOriginally Posted by commando45
No I did not just the pump itself. Didn’t change the filter
No one ever changes that filter