Anyone else having issues of total 12v power loss on PHEV? Happened twice, first time dealer tested and recharged and fixed for a couple of days. Now waiting on new battery (very rare).

Could it be using just EV most of the time or accessing to car online too often on multiple devices or what?

 

I've been using EV mode for about 90% of my commute (commute is too long to make it the whole way on just EV) and check the status of my car on the app ~5 times a day and I haven't had any issues. The car is designed to be used this way. It also reserves roughly 20-30% of battery for HV mode and doesn't let you get all the way to 0% charge even if you wanted to. Even if you were hitting your battery hard, it's only been out for a few months so unless you've been jumping cars every day (which you shouldn't be doing with a hybrid) regular use wouldn't be enough to kill the battery. Sounds like you just got a faulty battery or maybe power control in your car is off.

 

Thank you, that was my thought too. What do you mean by power control being off? Where do you access that?

 

Turn on ACC in the settings

 

sorry the way I phrased that might've been a little confusing. What I meant was that it's most likely the battery but if not then might need to check how the car is controlling power draw from the battery. The computer should be monitoring how much charge is left in the battery and stop drawing power before it hits 0% but if it's not then that could also potentially be causing your dead battery experiences. But most likely it sounds like it's a problem with the battery.

 

I've been occasionally (aiming for weekly) hooking up a battery tender to the 12V, even it gets driven daily by my wife. I'm surprised how much time it takes to get to trickle mode vs. my car (ICE) that I rarely drive, so I connect a tender each time I get back in the garage. The NX does have a power rear door that gets used often, but I would expect the 12V to get topped off in either ICE or EV mode.

I hard wired a quick connect cable to the battery that just reaches the end of the trunk mat, and I mounted the tender on the wall near a plug, so it only takes a few seconds to connect it.

Here's the one I use, nice and compact. I had an older model that worked well for years:


And here's the connector (used to come standard):

 

I found that the stock 12v on paper to be lacking. I posted a how to earlier this year on my experience upgrading the 12v battery in the plug-in hybrid

 

Can't find it - please post link to product etc. TIA

 

I’m interested in your charging setup…can you post a picture of the quick connection connected to the tender? Why don’t you just connect the tender to the connections under the hood?

I also have a dash cam with parking mode but the battery never has enough charge to keep it on even though I drive it daily. So I’m thinking I need to add a charger for the 12v daily too but I would like it to be super convenient like you describe. Thanks

 

I think I decided the trunk approach would be neater based on where the charge points were in the engine bay....I'll relook at it again.

Here's the photos, the connection point is tucked under the trunk mat edge when not in use, the rear door closes fine over the cable when in use. I have a tender wall mounted on each side of the garage, very convenient. I haven't been driving my car (front battery, so I pop the hood) too much recently, so it usually stays hooked up...the NX is my wife's car and I usually change it weekly.

 

Thanks! I was wondering about the trunk closing over the cable. Gonna have to test how long the dash cam lasts on a full charge. Hoping I don’t need to do it everyday.

 

I did have to notch the red positive terminal cover slightly to allow the eyelet connector to fit.

 

I drained my battery down to 10.4V this morning and tested by starting the vehicle and it charged back. The headlights seem to drain the battery very fast. Started the car and waited. I see the car is charging the battery with 13.x volts.

It does seem that if you are driving, the battery stays around 11.8 to 12V. It could mean that driving doesn't really charge the battery that fast.

After 14 mins I did see the battery gets back to 11.8V.

 

Might be worth changing the 'stay on time after getting out of the car' on the headlights... The clock doesn't seem to start until all doors and the rear hatch close, and my wife tends to leave the hatch open a bit. That and I'm often popping into the car to change settings which triggers the auto headlamps.

 

There needs to be an option to switch the headlights off after less than 30 seconds. It's odd that they have limited fixed values to choose from. You'd think they'd let you put a custom value in.