Couple of questions hoping someone has had experience with my situation:

1. I was replacing the neutral safety switch today but, due to excessive rust, the nut securing the neutral safety switch was seized causing the tip of the stud to sheer off. Before I jury rig something, is the stud an externally-replaceable part? Or does the transaxle have to be torn open to replace it?

2. The neutral safety switch moves but it won't slide off the stud. Is it simply seized due to rust or is there a special way to remove it? (the securing nut is sheered off and I removed the 2 bolts securing the switch itself.

I checked the owner's manual but could not find any reference to either.

Thanks,

 

The bottom of the transmission has to be partially disassembled to replace the valve lever shaft.




I've managed to repair a broken shaft by making a jig that allowed me to drill precisely into the shaft, then tapped threads to accept a 3mm bolt. To do this you need access to a drill press, a block of aluminum and other tools. For anyone trying to remove a NSS you must spray with penetrating oil many times over the course of a day, and be very patient when removing it. If that fails then torch it, but you'll have to replace the NSS.

 

Thanks, Lexus2000. Disassembling part of the transmission seems like quite a job.

I came across a couple of Toyota forums that suggested shaving off layers of the shift lever. That might work in my case as the shaft sheered off above the lock washer so there might just be enough for a nut to catch a few threads. And a bit more after grinding down the shift lever.

I’ll work on it over the next few days after which I’ll update this thread.

 

So did you have any luck?

 

777rx400h, I had planned to do a complete write up when I get the neutral safety switch (1st one didn’t fit), but, seeing you asked: The job is delayed since the I bought OEM through eBay at $50 vs $270 at the dealer and $150 if I buy it through their online store. I figured I’d wait for the eBay purchase to arrive on or around Nov12.

Both the shift lever and switch came out but with much difficulty. PB blaster nor any other cocktail applied 5x/day for 3 days worked so I torched it (as suggested by Lexus2000). Even so, I had to tap out both the shift lever and switch with a flat punch and a light hammer (so as to not stress the shaft too much). Took a couple of hours using bursts of torch flame vs a continuous flame (too many delicate parts that risk getting getting damaged with a continuous flame). Basically, I torched the shaft for 10 secs, tapped the parts with the punch and repeated.

I plan to hold down the shift lever using both inner and outer sides of a heli-coil (I drilled and tapped the round hole on the shift leaver just enough to allow the heli-coil to screw into the existing shaft thread (inner part of the heli-coil) and also the outside of the tapped round hole. I’ll then hold the assembly down with a nut (no flat washer or lock washer. Just blue Loctite on the threads). Not sure if it’ll work as I haven’t tried it yet; will wait for the switch to come in.

I’ll update the ground, with pics, after I receive the neutral safety switch from eBay.

 

Sounds like a PITA right to the end. lol

Instant +1 like from me for a write up fix with pics.

 

Sometimes torching is the only thing that works. Inspect the seal in the transmission to make sure it's okay, it should be but check just the same.

 

Finally received the right switch but I’m pulling out my hair installing it. I tried every which was I could think of but the switch won’t clear the transmission cooler lines.

Do I have to undo the cooler lines?

 

Just saw this post and since it was from a while ago , i assume you've finished it. BUT just for others: YES you need to take off the lines. I was stubborn and refused to take them off but after an hour , i decided to do it the way the manual said and disconnected them. SO much easier!! like they say, 'You can't fix stupid' .