Passenger outer CV Boot replacement
11-09-18, 04:00 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Passenger outer CV Boot replacement
Hi,
The front right boot on my RX is leaking and I can buy a kit from $tealer at $70, but has anyone done it and what is the level of DIY?
I am fairly handy to work on my cars and have always done my own brakes.
TIA
The front right boot on my RX is leaking and I can buy a kit from $tealer at $70, but has anyone done it and what is the level of DIY?
I am fairly handy to work on my cars and have always done my own brakes.
TIA
11-09-18, 10:21 PM
#2
Moderator
You can check the DIY in first gen RX [i did the inner boot]. I have a work bench with 5" vise and it was very handy to hold the shaft to work the boot.
Brakes pads are 1.5/10 in difficulty level. I would put the boot replacement at about 4.5/10. Due to my mistake the flex joint came apart and that just elevated to task to 7/10.
Also consider purchasing the refurbished half-shaft. If you have driven a lot with the torn boot, then it would be better to replace. I opted for the kit as my rip was recent.
Also expect the other side to rip soon [exception would be if something got wrapped around the boot and ripped it]
Salim
Brakes pads are 1.5/10 in difficulty level. I would put the boot replacement at about 4.5/10. Due to my mistake the flex joint came apart and that just elevated to task to 7/10.
Also consider purchasing the refurbished half-shaft. If you have driven a lot with the torn boot, then it would be better to replace. I opted for the kit as my rip was recent.
Also expect the other side to rip soon [exception would be if something got wrapped around the boot and ripped it]
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 11-09-18 at 10:25 PM.
11-10-18, 07:27 AM
#3
Well, R axle shaft is that long one, right? That is very hard to remove?
Anyhow..
1. replace entire axle. If you drove with boot torn, it will go bad anyway. Axles are cheap aftermarket. Better than spend $70 on boot and then do over anyway.
2. https://www.instructables.com/id/How...ace-a-CV-boot/ Pretty ingenious actually. I had axle disassembled to put new boot on. He's better than I am.
Anyhow..
1. replace entire axle. If you drove with boot torn, it will go bad anyway. Axles are cheap aftermarket. Better than spend $70 on boot and then do over anyway.
2. https://www.instructables.com/id/How...ace-a-CV-boot/ Pretty ingenious actually. I had axle disassembled to put new boot on. He's better than I am.
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yeehawbob (11-10-18)
01-17-19, 04:24 PM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
I could not find a used or refurbished passenger side Axel (the long one)
$tealer wanted $900+ for it so I ended up buying the Boot Kit for $70 and had my local mechanic install it for me.
Now the CV joint does not come apart so my guy had to use a lot of muscle and grease to go at it from the other side (Engine side of the Axel)
Also, as you take out the Axel some Transmission fluid will come out too so make sure you have replacement ready. Turns out transmission oil was really dirty (really black, should be Red or brown).
So I replaced my Transmission Oil as well. But I want to Flush it and there is a different process for these Hybrids.
Look for another post for the Transmission Oil change/replace/flush.
$tealer wanted $900+ for it so I ended up buying the Boot Kit for $70 and had my local mechanic install it for me.
Now the CV joint does not come apart so my guy had to use a lot of muscle and grease to go at it from the other side (Engine side of the Axel)
Also, as you take out the Axel some Transmission fluid will come out too so make sure you have replacement ready. Turns out transmission oil was really dirty (really black, should be Red or brown).
So I replaced my Transmission Oil as well. But I want to Flush it and there is a different process for these Hybrids.
Look for another post for the Transmission Oil change/replace/flush.
01-18-19, 04:07 PM
#5
Process for these hybrids is very simple. Get car up on the lift or, on 4 jackstands, so that it is level.
Pop open filler plug first. They are heavily torqued, you need very good L shaped 10mm hex wrench and cheat pipe. Or, breaker bar with 10mm hex head. On later than 2011 models, they moved filler plug to tire well side. On older than 2012 models, it's on the engine side.
Then you drain ATF from bottom drain plug. Put drain plug back in, get narrow neck funnle with long hose attached to it, tie funnel to the hood strut, feed hose down into the filler hole, start adding ATF. It's 4.2 qrt fill. Fill is to drip.
That's it. DO NOT flush, they are not flushed.
Info below is identical for Lexus.
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...id-change.html
Pop open filler plug first. They are heavily torqued, you need very good L shaped 10mm hex wrench and cheat pipe. Or, breaker bar with 10mm hex head. On later than 2011 models, they moved filler plug to tire well side. On older than 2012 models, it's on the engine side.
Then you drain ATF from bottom drain plug. Put drain plug back in, get narrow neck funnle with long hose attached to it, tie funnel to the hood strut, feed hose down into the filler hole, start adding ATF. It's 4.2 qrt fill. Fill is to drip.
That's it. DO NOT flush, they are not flushed.
Info below is identical for Lexus.
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...id-change.html
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