Well, what you will end up buying is, in effect, a 3 year/75000 mile CPO warranty. Unless you are going to drive 25,000 miles a year, you might want to consider the 6 year/75,000 mile warranty. If you drive the typical 12,000 miles a year and keep the car 6 years, that's a good balance. And if you sell the car in 3 years, it will have a transferable 3 year/36,000 mile warranty left for the next owner - worth considering for resale.

Let us know if the shudder resolves.

 

Unfortunately CPO is not transferable. Also 3/100 is the min CPO. I drive less than 10k a year. Spending ~5k on warranty is putting me on the fence on the whole deal...

 

Oh, that's a bummer. Then I guess you go for the 3 year. The car still sounds like a great deal if you can get the vibration sorted out.

 

The car is at a good price low miles would make me avoid the warranty as my car has never had any issues except the ML amp which is close to a grand to fix but that was covered. Mine has never had vibrations with stock 19s or staggered 22s so thats something to look into might be an alignment issue. Use that to negotiate a lower price and have a dealer look at it before hand $150 inspection fee well worth it for a 40k investment.

 

$3100...I am laughing so hard right now. What part of negotiate do you not understand? Go in there and make some demands and if they BS you, walk out. That's easy money and most likely they won't walk away from a deal..but $3100 is fkn ridiculous

 

CJitty, First, thanks for all your feedback! Just for the record, I am a very tough cookie when it come to negotiation

If I already settled the price with the private seller, walked into the dealer saying that this is what you need to be paying the seller plus certify the car. They tell me that price of the car will jump up by $2500 + $600 dealer fee if you buy it from us CPO. Take the deal or leave without certification.

Also, they just rasied the value of my trade to a point where it is equal to the private party value when cosidering the tax credit


I am getting to a point where if I walk away from this deal, pay GA tax, purchase third party warranty, sell my car myself. I will be at only $500 advantage.

 

Drive train shudder solved with the TSB

 

The only things that will generally break, wear out or need replacing on these cars is pretty well known now. That means air suspension ($2K per corner), front upper and lower control arms (about $4K to repair?), Mark Levinson amp ($1K) and the noisy brake booster (a few $K) being the main issues.

You might buy the car and only plan on keeping it for 3 years. But then you might really like the car and want to keep it longer! The 6 year CPO for $4600 will then look like a deal as you're basically paying $766 per year for a warranty that covers almost everything electrical and mechanical. I'd gladly pay $766 per year to have an LS600 covered for almost everything and have zero issues on claiming warranty as it's all done at the dealer.

 

Excellent! I take it you are going to buy the car, then? I would still get the warranty for peace of mind. A thousand bucks a year is about what a lot of people spend on their daily Starbucks coffee! And if you spread that out over 6 years, it's an even better deal!!

 

Yes, buying the car! Working on the 6 years CPO, if I get a loan from PenFed at 1.79%

 

Bought the car certified at $43.5k at 25k miles in brand new condition! Extended the CPO to 6 years/100k miles for $1,500. Thank you all for great feedback!!! Pictures will follow

 

Front picture

 

Inside picture

 

Back inside

 

Congratulations I hope you enjoy your new ride!