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Personally I've never had a failed VLED or any odd lighting behavior so I've stuck with them. The ones I bought are somewhat designed for outside use as well.
They are also local to me. I can't speak for brands above. The only LEDs I've had that experienced premature failure were from superbrightleds.com.
The running board models I used have 26 LEDs on them.
Can anyone tell me what's the reason for getting Vleds over Philips or Yorkim or Sylvania? Seems like Yorkim LEDs are a lot cheaper than Philips or Sylvania or Vleds. I was all set to get Philips for $6.50 each when I found the Yorkim for like $1.00 each!
I am not saying it will the case with any inexpensive bulb, but I have had a few eBay units fail on me. They will flicker OR have had diminished light output (due to several of the LEDs burning out). That's never been the case with the Sylvania.
I think if you stay with a "mainstream" bulb you will be fine. Plus the better/more expensive bulbs usually produce more light anyway.
I am going to get Philips 194 LEDs since they works out to $5.85 ea. and they last 12 yrs. How many do I need? I read 16 but I think I counted 18
4 for the four doors courtesy lights
6 for the front, centre and rear dome lights
4 for the running boards lights
2 for the front side marker lights
2 for the rear side marker lights
Am I correct? Is there a point in changing the front side marker lights if you have DRL and HID?
Not really a mod, but has anyone done anything with the lower grill? Not replacing with billet and the like, but adding some chrome rope or anything else??? Just looking for a change to that part. would be cool to dress it up. thanks,
I'm looking to swap out my halogen stock fog lights to LED to come closer my HID headlights. Is it just plug and play for a LED H11 led bulb? I tried searching through this thread but I wasn't too successful.
I'm looking to swap out my halogen stock fog lights to LED to come closer my HID headlights. Is it just plug and play for a LED H11 led bulb? I tried searching through this thread but I wasn't too successful.
I'd highly recommend the Morimotos that are basically plug and play. Hardest part if one can consider that is you need to use a voltmeter to determine which connection is + or - and push the electrical connector into correct spot. Really simple and they look great. A housing designed for an LED makes all the difference.
So anyone have the hyper-flash when they swap their turn signals with LED bulbs?
Just did mine today and they're hyper-flashing all over the place. Really don't feel like wiring up load resistors as all the wiring is a total PITA to reach, and I can't seem to find a LED flasher relay for the newer GX, so what the heck are all you guys doing???
So anyone have the hyper-flash when they swap their turn signals with LED bulbs?
Just did mine today and they're hyper-flashing all over the place. Really don't feel like wiring up load resistors as all the wiring is a total PITA to reach, and I can't seem to find a LED flasher relay for the newer GX, so what the heck are all you guys doing???
So anyone have the hyper-flash when they swap their turn signals with LED bulbs?
Just did mine today and they're hyper-flashing all over the place. Really don't feel like wiring up load resistors as all the wiring is a total PITA to reach, and I can't seem to find a LED flasher relay for the newer GX, so what the heck are all you guys doing???
) no hyper flashing for the most of the time. When I had only front one replace, worked perfectly. Since I replace all four of them, it seems once every so often it will hyper flashing. My guess is the load on the circuits may just at the board line of the triggering point. I am going to add two resisters like this from Amazon (
I did the LED bulb swap for interior dome lights, door courtesy and running board lights yesterday. Used Phillips 194 T10s off Amazon, about $13 a pair, 14 bulbs needed. The before and after is incredible, now to tackle those footwell lights..
(a couple of the thumbnails posted sideways but should be upright when expanded)
