I've got a 2013 GX 460 on the hoist that had been in a wreck and broke the steering rack where the inner tie rod attaches. I've done many many racks but, by looking at this, I honestly don't see how there's physical space to get a rack in and out.

I need to talk to someone that knows what has to be done to achieve removal and installation. Of course the lines have to come off, of course the bolts have to come out, of course the tie rod ends have to come off but it's not like a cradle baby where you can drop the back or front of the cradle to gain a little more space.

I've searched google till my eyes are crossed and there's just nothing. I suspect a Hanes manual won't even tell you how to do it. Other than, remove the bolts and stuff, remove the rack, install in reverse of removal. You know...typical useless Hanes manual crap.

There's gotta be a trick to getting them out of there, I just don't know it. Also, the guy wants an quote before I start and it doesn't show up on my labor guide. I've already got hours into getting it off the frame machine, onto the flat bed and into my shop and on the hoist JUST to be able to get a good clear look at how to get it apart. And I'm not seeing how it comes out. So if anyone can help me with that and maybe even has a guide that shows a labor time for that job, I'd SOOO appreciate that.

Thanks in advance,

Wayne

 

Sorry, but I don't think you're going to get the answer here. You seem to be a Toyota/Lexus technician and your knowledge here would be appreciated.

 

No, actually I'm more of a "generic wrencher". I do auto repair and it's a different vehicle all the time. Mostly GM because I live north of Flint. (Flint being a GM town of course). Actually, this is the very first Lexus I've ever worked on.

I think the procedure to do the steering rack on that model is to remove the engine. It was ALMOST impossible to get the rack out with the motor in vehicle. That model is a "full frame" vehicle. So there's no cradle to lower a little to make it easier to get a rack out. The last rack I did was on a Caddi and the rear cradle bolts had to be loosened a few turns to make enough space to get the "electronic assist" rack out and back in. It sucked, but paled in comparison to this Lexus. However, this one has been, by far, the worst rack I've ever done on anything. The motor has to be unbolted and raised as much as possible AND the front differential had to be unbolted and ratcheted back as far as possible. Then the inner tie rod ends/tie rods had to be removed. Even after all that, the lines that stay on the rack were getting bent in the process of removing the old rack so I'll remove them from the "new" (used) part until after it's up and mostly in. It'll be a pain but a pain is better than damaging the lines and having to replace them after mounting the rack back in.

The motor had to be raised in order to get the rack bolts out. I'm not sure why they didn't put the bolts in from the bottom up and put the nuts on top. That would have eliminated the need to unbolt the motor mounts and raising the engine. Although it may have been necessary anyway in the end, not sure about that. There isn't a large enough opening on either end for the big end of the rack to fit through so you have to remove the tie rods/inner tie rod ends, move the front dif back, raise the engine a little and then sneak the old rack out through the bottom between the front most cross member (I think it's only purpose is so that the rock guard has something to mount to). That's the ONLY way it'll come out unless you pull the motor out of the vehicle. I use 4 different free labor guides because I'm a very small repair operation. Only one of them even showed labor time for the job. It actually quoted between $1700+ and nearly three grand in labor alone to change the rack. THAT'S why I believe the actual procedure to change the rack is to remove the engine. That's the only way I can imagine they could justify that much money in labor just to change a steering rack. I can't understand how that's even legal. A steering rack isn't a VERY common failure but they do fail and far more often than an engine, typically anyway. To HAVE to remove an engine just to change a rack, shouldn't be legal if they want to sell foreign cars in the US. It may be "technically" serviceable but by removing the engine? That's absurd! I will NEVER do another one, EVER. If I can avoid ever working on a Lexus again, I'll do so. This whole deal has left a sour taste in my mouth over Lexus'. I'll do brake jobs, outer tie rod ends, tune ups etc but I'll never do a motor, trans or another steering rack. I don't care if the pay is 4 grand to change it. I'm NEVER doing another one. Nothing against you Lexus owners or anything, they seem to be very nice vehicles. But very nice but with that kind of a price tag for repairs....you have at em! I'll pass! LOL

Domestic auto makers do some pretty stupid stuff too but I've never seen an American car that needed to have the engine removed to change a steering rack.

But, that model Lexus can be done without completely removing the engine, it's just a huge pain. Most people, people trying to do their own repairs or even techs that don't have as much experience as I do would probably not have been able to pull that project off. I'm really only a "good mechanic" because I'm stubborn. I refuse to allow a vehicle to "beat me". So I fought with it and figured out a way to make it work. Getting the new one in won't be much easier than getting the old one out other than I'll probably have an easier time getting the inner tie rod ends/tie rods off with it on the bench than removing them in vehicle, like I had to do in this case.

But, long story short, the rack CAN be changed without removing the engine. But you will have to undo the motor mounts, raise the motor and move the front diff back as far as possible to pull it off. There just plain isn't enough physical space to get the big end of the rack out either "hole".

I hope my miserable experience helps someone that has to do the job themselves. Shops getting that kind of money to change a rack is, in my ever so humble opinion, nothing short of criminal!

Be well all, and try to stay warm if you live up here in the north this week. Tomorrow is supposed to be quite a bit colder than today was. I'm not happy about that but at least it'll be warmer than it was yesterday (Friday) at somewhere around 10 to 12 degrees for a high.

Wayne from Michigan....brrrrrrr LOL

 

Thanks for the reply.
You seem to be committed to finishing the job no matter what it takes

 

Thank you, I take that as a compliment. I did manage to get the rack back in. Just came in a little while ago, about 10:30. Very long two days for crap pay. I honestly believe that the procedure for changing that rack is to remove the engine. I was able to pull it off without doing so but it was absolute hell. The idiots actually put the motor mounts in on an angle, both sides leaning inwards. Just getting it mounted back in took a good THREE HOURS! Then I had to get the front axle back into place...not fun. NOTHING about this job was even remotely reasonable. Every part of the project was more absurd than the last. I would never own one of these vehicles and if I can help it, I'll never work on another one.I don't care if it pays 10 times the going rate. When they things this stupid, they can keep em.

BUT....the job did get done.

Wayne

 

This TSB for potential 10-12 steering wheel flutter issue has good overview of what it takes to R&I steering rack.

 

 

According to the pictures I see online. The nut to adjust the steering gears of the rack and pinion is special. does anyone know anything about this? This is an easy fix if that nut was not special. There are youtube videos about this but not for Lexus/Toyota. I cannot find this wrench or socket.