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after some questions on effort, risk and the like Ive added a simpler CC method to post 4.
this simpler method is one of the easiest methods to get CC.
Earlier I showed a mod to use simple switches to add CC. Some might want simpler.
Here is the other end of the spectrum. Complexity, benefit, cost, logistics, detail, time and risk are reduced. No waiting for parts, no visible change, maybe 15 mins to complete.
How to convert the DAC switch to a CC switch.
once at the harness connector at the combo switch assy:
1 disconnect it and cut the CC ON/OFF wire position 6 BLK and cut the DAC ON wire position 15 LT GRN making sure to leave enough wire to reconnect.
2 connect the connector end DAC 15 LT GRN wire to the harness end CC BLK 6 wire. At this point there is a cut BLK wire at the connector, and also a cut LT GRN wire at the harness. These are not used and can be secured.
Now the switch is converted. still need to run the cal process to get the computer to control the CC properly.
operation after cal completion
to turn on CC, flip the DAC switch to on and then back off. It doesnt matter how long you take since the signal works on the flip on only. CC works at the medium speed.
to turn CC off, flip the DAC switch to on and then back off. It doesnt matter how long you take since the signal works on the flip on only. CC stops working.
if doing the simpler 'stealth crawl' it could be best if the speed is set to slowest.
have a jumper wire on hand and short the wires to change the CC speed to lowest. From then on the CC speed will be at slowest when activated.
if i had only one CC speed it would be slowest.
John00: on stealth crawl does speed selection get reset to middle speed after a battery swap/losing power? I know ZPC is fine... just curious about speed selection.
I'll have to look around and see if I can find some connectors that are similar. Perhaps someone may want to build an in-line plug-and-play between existing crawl switch that takes advantage of your DAC mod and also includes some attached switches that could be routed to preferred location. This may address concerns of those averse to cutting into stock wiring but still be able to take advantage of the mod. Granted cost would likely be a little more than your full speed-range crawl option but still a bargain..
John00: on stealth crawl does speed selection get reset to middle speed after a battery swap/losing power? I know ZPC is fine... just curious about speed selection.
I'll have to look around and see if I can find some connectors that are similar. Perhaps someone may want to build an in-line plug-and-play between existing crawl switch that takes advantage of your DAC mod and also includes some attached switches that could be routed to preferred location. This may address concerns of those averse to cutting into stock wiring but still be able to take advantage of the mod. Granted cost would likely be a little more than your full speed-range crawl option but still a bargain..
the stealth crawl speed memory works the same as the regular CC speed memory. i think we need a test to know if that means it retains or resets the speed setting on power loss.
the oem switch is about 400$ most places. once in a while its cheaper, sometimes from the middle east
the 12mm switches i used for up/down are 1.50$
the 19mm about 2$
the 7mm in the test setup are 0.15$ thats 15 cents
I'm new to the GX (previously Subaru Outback). I don't mind spending for the OEM switches. I'm assuming it's not a plug and play, if I get the OEM switch. Would the work be easier?
amazing work. really respect your workmanship- has anyone thought about using the stock DAC 080 switch and modifying the switch to be the on/off switch for CC and then adding the two plus minus buttons to the existing panel? I have seen where the DAC is modified to be CC but it is stuck at medium speed- Just seems like this could be the best hybrid budget CC solution. please let me know if there is a negative to adding the new hardware to the existing panel.
Thanks for all the work done on this thread! I may have missed it but i wanted to confirm before i start hacking away. If I buy the factory toggle switch, do i still need to rewire the computer for CC?
Thanks for all the work done on this thread! I may have missed it but i wanted to confirm before i start hacking away. If I buy the factory toggle switch, do i still need to rewire the computer for CC?
No. If you replace with OEM CC switch, all you need to do will be the re-calibration the Zero point.
If you want to keep the OEM look (and don't use RAHC.)
Originally Posted by scautry
amazing work. really respect your workmanship- has anyone thought about using the stock DAC 080 switch and modifying the switch to be the on/off switch for CC and then adding the two plus minus buttons to the existing panel? I have seen where the DAC is modified to be CC but it is stuck at medium speed- Just seems like this could be the best hybrid budget CC solution. please let me know if there is a negative to adding the new hardware to the existing panel.
This is amazing work and I was going to go down this route until I found a used CC switch 84970-60070 for $50.
However, knowing that my AVS will someday give up the ghost, i thought about what else I could use the AVS switch for. In the process, I discovered an answer to scautry's question and would be a much simpler and cleaner process than what John00 has gone through.
I plan to keep RAHC on my GX, but if you don't have/want it, the RAHC switches will take the place of the CC switch. There are plenty of orphaned 84970-60080 console switches out there, including mine, that can be used.
The RAHC controls are three momentary push-buttons just like what CC requires and they already have built-in illumination. There should be no need to pull out the Driving Support ECU since everything can be done in the console at the connector under the console switches. Basically you would just clip the wires on the back of the connector that would normally go to the CC switches and them splice them into the wires that go to the RAHC switches. The RAHC switches already share a ground, so it would only be three wires to splice.
After splicing the wires, go through the reset/ZPC process, and the the RAHC switch should work exactly like the CC switch, without spending $400.
Caveats:
- I HAVE NOT ACTUALLY DONE THIS, I just verified the switch functionality, traced the RAHC connector pins (see photo) and am extrapolating given John00's work.
- I have not verified the specific CC control pins on the wire connector. I would need to completely disassemble my install to determine this, which I'm not keen on doing. Maybe someone with an uninstalled 84970-60070 can trace those three CC pins? Or I guess you could splice into the driving support ECU as John00 did.
- The DAC switches will be dead, but can be similarly repurposed.
- The AVS switch will be dead, unless you have AVS. It can also be repurposed. I traced those pins and plan to eventually use mine for off-road lights, front and rear.
- The new "CC" switch will be labeled wrong. This can be corrected by spraying a matching paint over the switch face and then etching "SPEED" into the paint until you reach white plastic (if you want it to illuminate.)
